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An exercise in sensor cleaning
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Sep 4, 2018 16:02:03   #
Daryl New Loc: Wellington,New Zealand
 
Thanks for post,interesting....

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Oct 20, 2018 11:38:41   #
Yodagirl Loc: All Over-Fulltime RV (Originally from NH)
 
Thanks for the link Jerry-I put it on our "list" at Amazon for when we have an address to ship to. Fulltime in an RV and Amazon retains the shipping method choice-we can only use PO General Delivery on the road.

jerryc41 wrote:
That's why I hate cleaning sensors. It's never as easy and fast as the demo videos. You can save time by using a sensor loupe to examine it for spots. No picture-taking required.

https://www.amazon.com/Carson-Camera-Sensor-Magnifier-SM-44/dp/B0091SS310/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1535987793&sr=8-6&keywords=camera+sensor+loupe

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Oct 20, 2018 12:31:59   #
PeterBergh
 
jerryc41 wrote:
... a magnet that will attract the aluminum and titanium shavings. ...


Neither aluminum nor titanium are ferromagnetic, so that isn't going to happen.

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Oct 23, 2019 08:46:02   #
billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
If I was a betting man, I'd lay my money on mirrorless cameras being more susceptible to sensor dust ... The sensor is just there, waiting for whatever wants to jump / fall into the body when the lens is off. I struggled with an afternoon of cleaning spots yesterday in images from a Sony a7II. For whatever reason, Sony makes the shake process a manual action rather than auto when the camera is turned off or on, where I'd prefer auto for both.

I feared I'd have to get to a wet clean where I don't have full-sized wipes. I started with a sensor in this situation:



For the long pieces rather than circular spots, I could see these on the sensor with good light and a magnifying glass.

My first tool was a Giotto Rocket-Air and running the camera's sensor clean a few times.



The strips are gone. Maybe hair? I don't know what they are. The next tool is a Sensor Brush. It would seem this could add more than it removes. I blew the brush vigorously with the Rocket-Air, both to remove any dust in the brush as well as to build a static charge before touching the sensor.

Much improved, lots of spots gone, some new stuff arrived.



Another round of brushing and blowing and cleaning cycle and the final result after 20-minutes effort:



Good enough to get out and shoot and better, it seems, than the entire time I've had this body since purchasing used. Most of the images were f/16 at the nearest wall to my computer so I could click the SD card out quickly back n forth between the camera and computer / monitor.
If I was a betting man, I'd lay my money on mirror... (show quote)


What sensor brush do you use?

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Oct 23, 2019 10:10:15   #
cameraf4 Loc: Delaware
 
Personally, I use Arctic Butterfly. Works great.

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Oct 23, 2019 13:26:08   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
billnikon wrote:
What sensor brush do you use?


http://www.photosol.com

http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com

Personally, Since 2005, I’ve used a Giotto Rocket Blower and Sensor Swabs with Eclipse fluid.

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Dec 29, 2019 14:39:36   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
Pay heed to the tales of old wives. It may well be that they alone keep in memory what it was once needful for the wise to know. ~ Tolkien, LOTR


My mother called them "old husbands tales."

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Dec 29, 2019 14:57:11   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
If I was a betting man, I'd lay my money on mirrorless cameras being more susceptible to sensor dust ... The sensor is just there, waiting for whatever wants to jump / fall into the body when the lens is off. I struggled with an afternoon of cleaning spots yesterday in images from a Sony a7II. For whatever reason, Sony makes the shake process a manual action rather than auto when the camera is turned off or on, where I'd prefer auto for both.

I feared I'd have to get to a wet clean where I don't have full-sized wipes. I started with a sensor in this situation:



For the long pieces rather than circular spots, I could see these on the sensor with good light and a magnifying glass.

My first tool was a Giotto Rocket-Air and running the camera's sensor clean a few times.



The strips are gone. Maybe hair? I don't know what they are. The next tool is a Sensor Brush. It would seem this could add more than it removes. I blew the brush vigorously with the Rocket-Air, both to remove any dust in the brush as well as to build a static charge before touching the sensor.

Much improved, lots of spots gone, some new stuff arrived.



Another round of brushing and blowing and cleaning cycle and the final result after 20-minutes effort:



Good enough to get out and shoot and better, it seems, than the entire time I've had this body since purchasing used. Most of the images were f/16 at the nearest wall to my computer so I could click the SD card out quickly back n forth between the camera and computer / monitor.
If I was a betting man, I'd lay my money on mirror... (show quote)


I had already done a test shot when I read this. I breathed on the sensor glass and wiped smoothly with a never-touched piece of soft microfiber cloth, blowing away any new bits, and then photographed plain paper. This is when I found that my computer screen was also full of spots, so I cleaned that with a different soft cloth. I examined the photo of the paper and it had some spots. I repeated the process and found no spots even many times zoomed in PS. However, I had not read your advice of f16--don't know what the auto setting gave me. I imagine this is a good time to try f32 again, in case spots were just out of focus range.

This adds another whole issue about large and small apertures--I would not assume larger apertures will soften the affect of sensor dust in general photography, and smaller apertures will light them up? After all, my streptocarpus shot (with all the sensor dust) was at f32. My assumption is that the lens f-stop does not affect the focus of sensor dust spots, as they are nearly contact-printed on the sensor (not through the lens). If that is true, the sensor dust will always be in focus (to the degree allowed by the thickness of the glass) no matter what the lens is set on?

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Dec 29, 2019 15:01:47   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
Charles 46277 wrote:
I had already done a test shot when I read this. I breathed on the sensor glass and wiped smoothly with a never-touched piece of soft microfiber cloth, blowing away any new bits, and then photographed plain paper. This is when I found that my computer screen was also full of spots, so I cleaned that with a different soft cloth. I examined the photo of the paper and it had some spots. I repeated the process and found no spots even many times zoomed in PS. However, I had not read your advice of f16--don't know what the auto setting gave me. I imagine this is a good time to try f32 again, in case spots were just out of focus range.

This adds another whole issue about large and small apertures--I would not assume larger apertures will soften the affect of sensor dust in general photography, and smaller apertures will light them up? After all, my streptocarpus shot (with all the sensor dust) was at f32. My assumption is that the lens f-stop does not affect the focus of sensor dust spots, as they are nearly contact-printed on the sensor (not through the lens). If that is true, the sensor dust will always be in focus (to the degree allowed by the thickness of the glass) no matter what the lens is set on?
I had already done a test shot when I read this. I... (show quote)


The smaller the aperture, the more clearly any sensor dust will appear in the lighter areas of the image, such as in the clouds / clear blue sky over a landscape at f/11 and smaller. Most people are unaware of sensor dust until they start using smaller apertures.

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Dec 29, 2019 15:15:51   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
OK, sounds right--at first... But wait. The dust is not affected by lens aperture, is it? It is like dust on the film itself, in focus as a contact print (or we may say, contact exposure), not seen through a lens with aperture?

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Dec 29, 2019 15:28:40   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
The dust is on the sensor, not the lens. I'd have to research and copy the explanation of why a lens focused via a smaller aperture, rather than a larger aperture, makes the dust easier to see on the same sensor with same lens.

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Dec 29, 2019 15:32:31   #
BebuLamar
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
Someone yesterday suggested dslr's have it worse because of metal shavings and all that up/down jarring from the mirror tossing oil and dust around. I'm sure "someone" will be along to discuss further

Congrats on your successful operation!


I don't know about the mirror but the shutters were used in film SLR did caused a lot of dust (which wasn't a problem with film). I think one of the Japanese company has the patent on the shutter that doesn't create dust to be used on DSLR.

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Dec 29, 2019 15:40:12   #
Bill P
 
foathog wrote:
Read the ad you sent, Jerry>>>>>>"The SensorMag is NOT Compatible with Mirrorless Cameras"


I don't get this. Why would mirror or not matter, it's just a damn magnifier.

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Dec 29, 2019 16:04:42   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
... Most of the images were f/16 at the nearest wall to my computer so I could click the SD card out quickly back n forth between the camera and computer / monitor.


I have what I think is a better way to take sensor dust shots.

First of all, set your aperture as small as possible. Set autofocus off. Set the lens to focus at infinity.

Bring up a blank page on your computer. A word processor or text editor with nothing on it. White is nice but not essential. Just sit in front of the computer, put your lens right up near the white page and shoot. It doesn't matter what the shutter speed is. Even if the camera moves during the exposure, you're not going to be looking at any structure in the image. It's out of focus. The dust image will not be blurred because it moves with the camera.

The advantage to this is that you are staying right there in front of your computer at your desk. You don't have to move to where a featureless wall is. True, there is structure in your monitor in the form of RGB triplets, but since the lens is set to infinity and right up close to the screen they will be way out of focus.

I set my camera to jpg since there's no point in using raw for a temporary image.

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Dec 29, 2019 17:28:10   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
The dust is on the sensor, not the lens. I'd have to research and copy the explanation of why a lens focused via a smaller aperture, rather than a larger aperture, makes the dust easier to see on the same sensor with same lens.


Yes, it is a puzzle. But it seems to me that a lens is not necessary to photograph dust on the sensor, except for a shutter to control light--as in contact printing.

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