I don't use a WB device, as it would be useless with the in-camera WB preset that I use. Each image I process goes through a preliminary Auto WB in ACR. Upon bringing the image into PS, I do an image specific WB, which involves several layers. I've never found that in-camera WB or the WB selector in ACR to be that accurate.
--Bob
lesdmd wrote:
A two part question:
How many of you use a white balance card/device to lead to (as close to) perfect color reproduction in your photos?
Why?
Ok, essential for product photography, fashion shots, perhaps wedding photos, or any other photography that must produce very accurate realistic results; but is it really important for landscape, nature, artistic, or even portrait photography?
I use AUTO WB and if I have to make adjustments I use LR. I find I almost never have to make any adjustments, cameras today are that good. I do have a color checker and a gray card but am using them less and less.
BboH
Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
I use the Kelvin for white balance. After setting the temperature to what I believe it should be I then take a shot of something red - if the red in my camera matches the actual object then white balance is OK. If not then I tweak the WB setting until I have a match. I carry a "red card" if I suspect that I may not be able to fine something red to shoot.
lesdmd wrote:
A two part question:
How many of you use a white balance card/device to lead to (as close to) perfect color reproduction in your photos?
Why?
Ok, essential for product photography, fashion shots, perhaps wedding photos, or any other photography that must produce very accurate realistic results; but is it really important for landscape, nature, artistic, or even portrait photography?
I use Delta-1 18% Gray Cards, or One Shot Digital Calibration Targets, or (rarely) an ExpoDisc. For critical work, I use the Color Checker Passport from X-Rite.
These tools give me the most accurately exposed and white-balanced straight-out-of-camera JPEGs. They also give me a click-balance reference for raw file post-processing.
I use them because I like to start with color that is a reasonably accurate representation of reality.
I can tell you that ALL mass-market portraiture companies (school, church, and “big box store” studios) use some sort of white balance and exposure reference tool. Most prefer such tools to flash meters, once they achieve their desired lighting ratios via a meter.
Just as important as a WB reference is an accurate monitor calibration and profiling kit. Monitors are annoying to useless and deceiving without periodic calibration and custom ICC profiling.
I use the color I wish to reproduce as white for a white balance i.e I use green as reference when shooting I/R and set as a custom W/B. However if I go from bright light to shade the balance must be reset.
Ted d
Loc: Green Valley, AZ.
lesdmd wrote:
A two part question:
How many of you use a white balance card/device to lead to (as close to) perfect color reproduction in your photos?
Why?
Ok, essential for product photography, fashion shots, perhaps wedding photos, or any other photography that must produce very accurate realistic results; but is it really important for landscape, nature, artistic, or even portrait photography?
I use use X-rites passport for people otherwise I use the dropper tool in On1
Ted d
Loc: Green Valley, AZ.
lesdmd wrote:
A two part question:
How many of you use a white balance card/device to lead to (as close to) perfect color reproduction in your photos?
Why?
Ok, essential for product photography, fashion shots, perhaps wedding photos, or any other photography that must produce very accurate realistic results; but is it really important for landscape, nature, artistic, or even portrait photography?
I use X-rites Passport for people, Otherwise I use the dropper tool in On1.
TonyP wrote:
I might be missing something, but I find the Adobe RAW converter allows such fine WB adjustments, very quick and easy.
OK I have to rely on memory for the colours, but a pleasing result is more important to me than a precise replica of the colour.
Or am I missing something by doing that?
I agree with this guy. 9 times out of 10, I use my camera's auto white balance. If necessary, I tweek in Adobe Camera Raw. Takes about 10 seconds. Like TonyP, my own creative result is more important to me than a precise reproduction is. Truely, viewers of my photos will never see the scene I am reproducing at the same time of day, same lighting, same position, etc. So what I think is paramount.
For critical stuff like artwork, I use Color Checker Passport
For landscapes, usually set camera's white balance to Auto-WB. Works well. Sometimes a gray card or ExpoDisc. During the Golden Hour, I use WB=Daylight to retain the golden color. Often adjust WB in post-process to get the color I want.
HT are you Aussie by chance? My wife is from Melbourne. I lived there 8 yrs and recognize the colloquialism’s
lesdmd wrote:
A two part question:
How many of you use a white balance card/device to lead to (as close to) perfect color reproduction in your photos?
Why?
Ok, essential for product photography, fashion shots, perhaps wedding photos, or any other photography that must produce very accurate realistic results; but is it really important for landscape, nature, artistic, or even portrait photography?
Don't use it at all. I correct things in post processing to my minds eye. Unless you have each lens, each camera body, each computer, each monitor , each printer, each printer paper, each ink batch, etc . it just doesn't matter
If you're shooting RAW, setting WB is meaningless. WB only is important for JPEGS.
rcarol wrote:
If you're shooting RAW, setting WB is meaningless. WB only is important for JPEGS.
Not entirely true. If you are doing product photography where accurate color representation is of utmost importance, the RAW editor is not going to tell you when you have achieved proper WB with the sliders. You will need something to guide you.
That's the way to go photo shop, a gray card is time consuming and if you shoot RAW Photoshop 2 second adjustment my 2 cents Mike
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