DIRTY HARRY wrote:
I'm not trying to be a smart ass or anything but after you go to all this trouble with white balance and 18% gray cards ... then you go into post processing and change everything. What am I missing here?
Exposure. Off-topic, but relevant to gray cards.
One thing you can't change in post-processing is exposure.
You can lighten and darken the image you've got, but lost
detail in blown highlights or burned out shadows cannot
be magically restored. What the sensor failed to capture
is gone forever.
So exposure needs to be accurate. If you always use flash,
then the shutter is not involved in exposure. In all other
cases, it is.
All digital cameras (except the very cheapest ones) have
electro-mechanical shutters. Like everything mechanical,
they are not perfect, even when brand new. Tolerances
are as good as they can make them, where they make them--
which is more likely to be in China that in Switzerland. :-)
If its an absolutely top quality camera -- the factory may test every
unit, and includ a shutter calibration card in the box. When's
the last time you saw one of those? :-)
Over time shutters wear, lubricants dry out, and so speeds change
(often very greatly!). It's more common for shutters to get slower
than faster, so old cameras tend to underexpose.
May other things can make exposure inaccurate: variations between
lenses (apertures, contrast lost to stray light).
In film cameras it was possible to measure shutter speed directly
with a very simple set up (desk lamp, photocell & cable, PC
and free audio software -- yes, I mean audio). On a digital
camera, it's not possible.
So on a digital camera, you have to calibrate exposure the
old fashioned way: using a grey card and an extremely
elaborat and time-consuming procedure:
* constant, uniform light of known EV
* large black backdrop to prevent stray light from
entering the lens.
* keeping all other variables: lens, aperture, etc constant
* shooting multiple shots in raw mode at every combination of aperture
and shutter speed
* examining the raw mode image files with software (or on film camera,
the developed negative is measured with a densiometer).
Sound like fun?
But if you don't do it, you'll never know why you blew so many shots,
never learn that on your camera, shutter setting 100 is actually
1/80th of a second, not 1/100th, while all other speeds are fine.
Life really sucks, sometimes.
My impression is that most people adopt the scattergun approach:
"shoot lots and cull". The slightly more evolved bracket exposure.
Ansel Adams is rolling in his grave. :-)
There are shooting situtations when anyone would bracket. But not
calibrating your camera -- white balance and exposure -- is like not
tuning up your car. It may have electronic ignition and a computer,
but it still has timing.