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New camera, new problems
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Aug 2, 2018 07:05:54   #
crabbydog
 
Try calibrating the diopter on your camera.

CD

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Aug 2, 2018 07:07:42   #
crabbydog
 
Try Calibrating the Diopter of Your Camera



MartyfromWNY wrote:
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After 9 years with a bridge camera, I decided it was time for an SLR to get the better quality images that can be gotten with an SLR. I bought a Nikon D3400 and a Tamron 16-300mm lens.

The camera has 11 focus points which are 10 too many. I'm an old man and my eyesight isn't getting any better. The focus points in the viewfinder are dim, as are the sides of the rectangles that surround some of the points. I've selected single point focusing and I have trouble finding that point. It seems like I press the shutter button halfway a half-dozen times before every shot. It's much worse when there's a busy background against those dim points.

Do you have any suggestions for how I can deal with this focusing system?

Next problem. Back to age, my hands aren't getting any steadier, just like my eyesight isn't improving. I am unable to get sharp pictures when shooting at my lens' longer focal lengths. By the way, I shoot small critters such as butterflies and dragonflies, other insects, spiders, frogs and anything else that moves except people.

I did some reading about getting sharp pictures and tried doing some new things. 1) supporting the lens with my left hand and 2) pressing the shutter button with the flat fleshy part of my fingertip rather than pressing down with my fingernail. I also try to keep my elbows against my body when shooting position permits. I'v also tried pressing the shutter while holding my breath and exhaling.These changes made -0- improvement. Of course, being human, my degree of steadiness or lack of same isn't consistent and varies from shot to shot. What doesn't vary is that on every shot the mirror flies up. Might that be my problem?

I am pessimistic and don't see a way out. I don't know what to do differently. My lens' maximum focal length is 450mm equivalent. For what it's worth, I get a reasonable number of acceptably sharp pictures with my bridge camera at its maximum of 486mm equivalent. I know that sharpness can be had based on the many pictures I see on my photo group, with successful handholding at 600 on a Sigma 150-600 and >1000 with the Canon SX.

I know this is a long post with more than one subject and I thank you for and appreciate your patience.

Marty
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After ... (show quote)

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Aug 2, 2018 07:07:55   #
ggenova64
 
Hi Marty
Keep up the Good Work! I suggest using a heavy duty small tripod with a shutter release cable.

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Aug 2, 2018 07:29:13   #
wtmarks
 
I would suggest having someone else take a few pictures with your camera and see if they experience the same issues. They could also check your camera settings. Do you have a local camera/photography club? I am a seventy year old man and have no problem focusing with my Nikon D810, but I would never consider taking a close up similar to the one of the spider without a tripod and cable/remote shutter release.

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Aug 2, 2018 07:50:19   #
LXK0930 Loc: Souh Jersey
 
If you think that the problem is due to camera movement from pressing the shutter, try 2 second self timer.

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Aug 2, 2018 08:16:54   #
insman1132 Loc: Southwest Florida
 
Hey Marty, I would guess that most of us oldsters empathize with you. I am 80+ and I have all bridge cameras now. You don't mention the make, model of your old bridge camera, but maybe you will be happier and more successful if you go back to one of the current better bridge cameras?? Remember, true to life, the physical problems you are experiencing are only going to get worse as you continue to age.

My best to you!!

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Aug 2, 2018 08:22:53   #
mizzee Loc: Boston,Ma
 
I agree with others here about checking out the Olympus OMD series. I have one, e-M5 II, and it has 5-axis stabilization in the camera and it makes a world of difference. The screen on the back of the camera is bright enough so that you can do setting even in the bright sun. You will have to read the manual or get the Mastering the Olympus OMD e-Mark 5 II. But it’s well worth the time.

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Aug 2, 2018 08:50:33   #
johnbhome2 Loc: Wyoming, Michigan
 
Monopod or tripod! Works for me!

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Aug 2, 2018 09:06:31   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After 9 years with a bridge camera, I decided it was time for an SLR to get the better quality images that can be gotten with an SLR. I bought a Nikon D3400 and a Tamron 16-300mm lens.

The camera has 11 focus points which are 10 too many. I'm an old man and my eyesight isn't getting any better. The focus points in the viewfinder are dim, as are the sides of the rectangles that surround some of the points. I've selected single point focusing and I have trouble finding that point. It seems like I press the shutter button halfway a half-dozen times before every shot. It's much worse when there's a busy background against those dim points.

Do you have any suggestions for how I can deal with this focusing system?

Next problem. Back to age, my hands aren't getting any steadier, just like my eyesight isn't improving. I am unable to get sharp pictures when shooting at my lens' longer focal lengths. By the way, I shoot small critters such as butterflies and dragonflies, other insects, spiders, frogs and anything else that moves except people.

I did some reading about getting sharp pictures and tried doing some new things. 1) supporting the lens with my left hand and 2) pressing the shutter button with the flat fleshy part of my fingertip rather than pressing down with my fingernail. I also try to keep my elbows against my body when shooting position permits. I'v also tried pressing the shutter while holding my breath and exhaling.These changes made -0- improvement. Of course, being human, my degree of steadiness or lack of same isn't consistent and varies from shot to shot. What doesn't vary is that on every shot the mirror flies up. Might that be my problem?

I am pessimistic and don't see a way out. I don't know what to do differently. My lens' maximum focal length is 450mm equivalent. For what it's worth, I get a reasonable number of acceptably sharp pictures with my bridge camera at its maximum of 486mm equivalent. I know that sharpness can be had based on the many pictures I see on my photo group, with successful handholding at 600 on a Sigma 150-600 and >1000 with the Canon SX.

I know this is a long post with more than one subject and I thank you for and appreciate your patience.

Marty
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After ... (show quote)


First did you try before you bought?

Read manual as to control # of focus points. You may also be able to enlarge a focus point thus making it easier to find.

Consider setting up Back Button Focus is available.

Up your ISO and then your shutter speed so you have a shorter exposure. If you are shooting a 500 mm lens you should be at at 1/500th sec for handholding.

Just a beginning.

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Aug 2, 2018 09:09:07   #
Nosaj Loc: Sarasota, Florida
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
a Nikon D3400 and a Tamron 16-300mm lens --- deal with this focusing system? --- unable to get sharp pictures when shooting at my lens' longer focal lengths --- Marty


Seems like you're trying to use a subcompact to pull a mobile home! Try a higher level dslr that a D3400.

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Aug 2, 2018 09:32:18   #
olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
​
Thank you for the replies.I will try and answer some of the questions

I do not wear glasses

The VC switch is always on.
I alternate between shutter and aperture priority. Shutter priority when sunny, set at 1/1000, and aperture otherwise, set at the maximum.

I think I'm getting the focus right most of the time. It drives me crazy to have to screw around and waste time finding the active focus point, but I don't shoot unless I've found it. Most of my subjects are large enough to hit with the focus point, but I may miss with smaller subjects. I don't understand this: " Assure your camera release priority is set on focus so it won’t fire if out of focus. "

The picture I've posted is very typical of my results. The spider is more than clear enough for I.D. purposes but lacking the sharpness that I want.
​ br Thank you for the replies.I will try and an... (show quote)



Looks like focus is on the web in front of spider (w/o looking at exif data). You are getting some good tips from the group, and more will come. Absorb tips, read some more from manual, and do some practicing on a fixed target, maybe set up something on the dining room table...move around, diff. angles, light it up good, brighten the viewfinder and LCD, make sure diopter is crisp for your eyesight, and practice a bit...it will come to you. When you say aperture at maximum, I'm assuming you mean "wide open", in manual - try stopping down in steps of one, two, three (or more) stops at each shutter speed so you can see the difference..... watch the DOF start to improve. OR, set the camera on "auto" and see what it feels is right, then try something a little closer to what it would use, and see what you get.


Don't despair, you have a new system to learn, try practicing on static objects, you will start to get a feel for what the camera is capable of getting. Whenever I buy a new lens or camera body; I test them and acquaint myself with it using the static test method. Table top with small tripod... set up a bright colorful target, start with an auto shot to see what the camera "see's". I then pick a shutter speed close (either slower or faster, then take shot after shot changing aperture setting each time so that when I look at exif data and the shot, I can see where things come into focus, go out of focus. For example, start at say 1/500 and run through at least a half dozen or more shots at that speed while stopping down as I go. F 4, F 5.6, F 6.5, F 8, F 10, F 16, F 20...you get my drift. Then go to faster shutter speed, repeat. It may sound like no fun, but you will learn how each lens reacts to camera settings, as all other factors remain the same (lighting, position, etc.). Try it, it won't hurt!!!!

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Aug 2, 2018 09:44:51   #
PhotosRfun
 
Take a look at this stabilizer strap that is used along with a monopod. www.coolcameragadgets.store

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Aug 2, 2018 09:48:52   #
NCMtnMan Loc: N. Fork New River, Ashe Co., NC
 
If I read your post correctly, I don't see any mention of a tripod. If you're not using one then I would certainly recommend you try that. Possibly with a gimbal head using a large heavy zoom. Once on a tripod, then a remote shutter release will eliminate any possible issues with shutter finger movement.

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Aug 2, 2018 10:37:22   #
rwww80a Loc: Hampton, NH
 
You did buy your camera from a local photoshop? If not go and find one. They will help.
Maybe a tri/monopod?
Use shutter priority mode and choose a shutter speed higher than 1/500 sec with auto DIN/ASA/ISO. I'm not sure about the focus detector but if you can select - DO. If you need help - ask!

Bob

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Aug 2, 2018 10:50:13   #
Toment Loc: FL, IL
 
Marty, your photo is probably partially in focus but I see a blur indicating motion. Get a tripod and you’ll see a BIG difference. A light weight one would be fine. You might need to turn off VC when using the tripod. Shutter speed is very important. The faster the sharper. Increase ISO or aperture, too.
Good luck!

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