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New camera, new problems
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Aug 3, 2018 12:58:40   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
Some miscellaneous comments

"their must be a way to have a single auto focus point at the center of frame , that way no issue " There is, on my bridge camera

" I used the DUMMIES book about my camera"

I also have the Dummies book. I'm dependent on it, as the information from Nikon (including the online manual) is woefully inadequate

"How much was this image cropped, Marty" I can't quantify it, but it's significant and probably excessive by the standards of many people here.

"do you have a "protection" filter on the lens?"

No filter.

Here is a picture with a lack of sharpness
Some miscellaneous comments br br "their mus... (show quote)


This dragon image looks great and not something anyone would characterize as an "unmitigated disaster". Looking at the EXIF, the first two items you can change are:

1. Shoot in Manual so you can control both the shutter speed and aperture. Your Tamron AF 16-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD is going to perform a whole lot better at the zoom max of 300mm at f/8 rather than the f/6.5 used here.

2. Use a slower shutter and corresponding ISO. This image reports 1/1600 and ISO-1600. A speed at 1/1000 would be fast enough allowing for the smaller aperture and / or lower ISO.

Some post processing would improve this image some, but changing your exposure parameters based on a smaller aperture will produce a better image before processing.

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Aug 3, 2018 17:49:26   #
CO
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
Some miscellaneous comments

"their must be a way to have a single auto focus point at the center of frame , that way no issue " There is, on my bridge camera

" I used the DUMMIES book about my camera"

I also have the Dummies book. I'm dependent on it, as the information from Nikon (including the online manual) is woefully inadequate

"How much was this image cropped, Marty" I can't quantify it, but it's significant and probably excessive by the standards of many people here.

"do you have a "protection" filter on the lens?"

No filter.

Here is a picture with a lack of sharpness
Some miscellaneous comments br br "their mus... (show quote)


You can have a single autofocus point active on the D3400 and move that point around with the direction pad.

The D3400 comes with Nikon View NX-i on a CD. Load that software. If you don't have the CD you can download it from Nikon's download center online. You can turn on "Show Focus Point". It will put a red square(s) where your focus point(s) landed.

Here's a link to the autofocus settings for the D3400.

https://camerajabber.com/how-to-set-nikon-d3400-af-modes/


(Download)



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Aug 3, 2018 18:11:57   #
srt101fan
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
Some miscellaneous comments

"their must be a way to have a single auto focus point at the center of frame , that way no issue " There is, on my bridge camera

" I used the DUMMIES book about my camera"

I also have the Dummies book. I'm dependent on it, as the information from Nikon (including the online manual) is woefully inadequate

"How much was this image cropped, Marty" I can't quantify it, but it's significant and probably excessive by the standards of many people here.

"do you have a "protection" filter on the lens?"

No filter.

Here is a picture with a lack of sharpness
Some miscellaneous comments br br "their mus... (show quote)


Marty, I'm the one who asked you about how much you cropped the image you posted. You say it was "significant". Couldn't that be your sharpness issue? Maybe others can comment on that.

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Aug 3, 2018 18:38:29   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
srt101fan wrote:
Marty, I'm the one who asked you about how much you cropped the image you posted. You say it was "significant". Couldn't that be your sharpness issue? Maybe others can comment on that.


Good point, the dragon example reports 1264x843 pixels. If cropped from an original 6000x4000 from the 24MP sensor in a D3400, there are processing techniques in post to help mitigate cropping this deeply into an image from this type of camera. As identified in my earlier analysis, there are also opportunities in the exposure settings when the image was captured that also will help create an image available for heavy cropping.



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Aug 3, 2018 20:44:58   #
DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA
 
MartyfromWNY wrote:
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After 9 years with a bridge camera, I decided it was time for an SLR to get the better quality images that can be gotten with an SLR. I bought a Nikon D3400 and a Tamron 16-300mm lens.

The camera has 11 focus points which are 10 too many. I'm an old man and my eyesight isn't getting any better. The focus points in the viewfinder are dim, as are the sides of the rectangles that surround some of the points. I've selected single point focusing and I have trouble finding that point. It seems like I press the shutter button halfway a half-dozen times before every shot. It's much worse when there's a busy background against those dim points.

Do you have any suggestions for how I can deal with this focusing system?

Next problem. Back to age, my hands aren't getting any steadier, just like my eyesight isn't improving. I am unable to get sharp pictures when shooting at my lens' longer focal lengths. By the way, I shoot small critters such as butterflies and dragonflies, other insects, spiders, frogs and anything else that moves except people.

I did some reading about getting sharp pictures and tried doing some new things. 1) supporting the lens with my left hand and 2) pressing the shutter button with the flat fleshy part of my fingertip rather than pressing down with my fingernail. I also try to keep my elbows against my body when shooting position permits. I'v also tried pressing the shutter while holding my breath and exhaling.These changes made -0- improvement. Of course, being human, my degree of steadiness or lack of same isn't consistent and varies from shot to shot. What doesn't vary is that on every shot the mirror flies up. Might that be my problem?

I am pessimistic and don't see a way out. I don't know what to do differently. My lens' maximum focal length is 450mm equivalent. For what it's worth, I get a reasonable number of acceptably sharp pictures with my bridge camera at its maximum of 486mm equivalent. I know that sharpness can be had based on the many pictures I see on my photo group, with successful handholding at 600 on a Sigma 150-600 and >1000 with the Canon SX.

I know this is a long post with more than one subject and I thank you for and appreciate your patience.

Marty
My new purchase is an unmitigated disaster. After ... (show quote)


Marty, I saw no mention of a tripod. Using a tripod gives you a chance to learn the camera and not worry so much about holding steady. Also, I second the recommendation of Steve Perry's book. Helped me a lot with my D5300 and Df.

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