appealnow Loc: Dallas, Texas

Heading to Alaska in 10 days. If I can schedule it (so far, the excursion is booked solid), I want to take one of the plane flights sightseeing over Misty Fjord. I will be using my Nikon D5300 (a DX camera). What lens should for taking photos from the plane? I own a 35 mm F/1.8, 18-55mm kit lens, and a 18-300 mm F/3.5-6.3.

jak86094

I'd definitely take fast lenses. Any small plane will create vibration, which you may be able to avoid by using fast shutter speeds. The fjords and glaciers are panoramic, so a wide angle is probably called for. I don't know if you will need the telephoto end, though you never know if there will be details that can only be reached with a long lens. I'd probably take the 35mm f/1.8 and the 18-300 and leave the 18-55mm behind since the 18-300 covers the same focal lengths...and a lot more. Hope the flight works out. Enjoy the trip. Alaska is beautiful...even when it rains, snows, and fogs up.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

I took the boat trip to Misty Fjords and noticed several float planes setting down on the water and letting the people out onto the pontoons to photograph. Your wide-to-tele would be my choice.

appealnow Loc: Dallas, Texas

Yes, they do land. I am a little concerned about rain and having a non-weather proof camera. Of course, it poured in Viet Nam one morning and the D5300 was unaffected.

JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

I hope you have a good day and any fog has burned off and you can see well. When we were up there a few years back, I found that my 200mm, longest I had at the time, was marginal but got the most use. I'd use the 18-300 mm Tele. and make sure you are using a high enough ISO 600+ to compensate for the high shutter speed (1/1000 min) you will need. The flight may not be smooth, and there will be vibrations so hand hold the camera; a tripod or mono-pod will just add to the problem.

appealnow Loc: Dallas, Texas

I have found setting the camera to sport mode works well taking photos from a bus. The problem with the plane is probably focusing. I must confess that I haven't learned or gotten very comfortable with using aperture setting and going into the menu to manually set things. Are you saying it's better to do the flying sightseeing later in the day? I was thinking earlier would be better but you seem to be indicating mid day is better.

TheDman Loc: USA

Cruising from Seattle?

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Actually, if it is raining that hard, they probably won't fly. My flight to some glacier was cancelled because of rainy weather. I just keep my camera under a rain-proof jacket until needed and then I do not dawdle. Worked for me, I was in Alaska during one of the rainiest Septembers on record.

JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

Appeal, Morning may give you better light color and angle, but I was mainly thinking of water vapor coming off the glaciers because of the early morning temp differentials.

Most of my photography (and my favorite venue) is from our sailboat with racers, hydroplane or sailboats, being the subjects. That means the both the platform and the racers may be bouncing in three directions from the wakes and waves once, and I may also be panning the speedboats thus the need for high shutter speeds. The sailboats at a minimum of 1/500 and the power boats at 1/1000- 1/3000 depending upon conditions. I always use center spot focus as I want the action to be in focus and don't worry about the Depth of Field so I let the camera chose the f/stop. To a somewhat lesser extent you will be in the same situation, the plane is moving (and vibrating?). As I assume you are not flying you will have no warning if the pilot jinks or banks for some reason. The fewer things (camera settings) you have to think about, the more time you have to compose, focus, and shoot. Don't be afraid to use one of the continuous shooting modes, it will give you more shots to chose from. You said you are not really familiar with the camera so take advantage of all the presetting you can use. The following is not meant to be disparaging so please don't take offense, but an old Army expression comes to mind which really helps when everything is rushed; it is mainly meant as a caution for Officers when planning & delegating, but you may appreciate it: KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid!

Have a great trip, we took a two week cruise from Seattle to Anchorage a few years back; it was the best cruise we've taken! We would both love to do a repeat, but I'm afraid our time has passed.

Please post some shots when you get back, and if you have some questions about what you did or didn't and think you should have done, post them and ask. Most of us here are amateurs so we all have made those same mistakes. Practice is the best teacher, but answers to questions helps speed the process.

Wingpilot Loc: Wasilla. Ak

For your flight, keep your lens shorter. The 18-55 will do nicely. A couple years ago I took my D7200 with the 18-140 on it and the lens was actually physically just too long in the cramped airplane. And I doubt I shot anything longer than about 50-70mm. Those small planes have plenty of vibration and long lenses are not only inconvenient, but suffer a lot from the vibration of the plane. Other things to know--make sure, if you're not sitting up front, that your side windows are absolutely clear. If you're sitting up front, remember that the windshield is curved and can distort an image or fool your AF system, and if you shoot through the front windshield, you'll always get an image of the propellor in the shot. If you shoot our the side of the plane, pay attention to the wing struts which can get in the way.

If the weather is sour and visibility questionable, they'll likely not fly. There have been a couple disastrous (meaning fatalities) crashes in the past couple years that were weather-related. But if you go, wear a light rain jacket and just put the camera inside. Any one of the Goretex or other "texes" work well and are light. As an alternative, a large (2 gallon size) plastic baggy works well. If you fly over glaciers, remember that glaciers reflect and incredible amount of light of their surfaces. Even on a rainy, cloudy day, it's very bright over a glacier. My suggestion is to set your ISO that will allow you to use a fast enough shutter speed to counteract the plane's vibration, but provide for a small enough aperture to bring in as much detail as possible.

Save your long lenses for shooting on the ground or from a ship.

daldds Loc: NYC

We were there 15 years ago, so other than prices, I would imagine the same opportunities exist. I have found that tour or ship excursions are always more expensive and crowded. Go online and look for local entrepreneurs. Call direct. Very friendly, knowledgeable and helpful people up there.
We walked off the cruise ship and found a local small floatplane (3 passenger) and pilot. We saw all that the larger trips did, and also were able to land on a small lake to photograph a grizzly sow with cubs, and moose (plural meese?). Also, I did not have to compete for or share time with other photographers.
However you do it, you'll love it. Great trip!

nimbushopper Loc: Tampa, FL

The 18-55 will be your best choice! You don't need very high shutter speeds, just don't rest your arms against any part of the aircraft because the vibrations will affect the camera! If you have to shoot through plexiglass, make sure it's clean and try not to shoot through the curved part. Check with the pilot to see if a window can be opened to shoot through. If so, don't push lens out window into slipstream(you'll certainly lose the lensshade).

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Since you don't know how high your going to be or what you want to include, I would suggest the 18-300.
1. Shoot at a very fast shutter speed because of the vibrations in a small aircraft. Stay away from touching any part of the window or aircraft again because of the vibrations.
2. Take you exposure readings of the ground before you take off (if the lighting is consistent, no cloudy and then sunny) and keep that setting when in the air.
3. My favorite lenses was the 105 mm 2.5 Nikon when I shoot for the EPA. But, like I said, you don't know how much you want to include so take that long zoom and have some fun.

mizzee Loc: Boston,Ma

Went to Alaska a few years ago we did do a plane. I would take the 35 and the 18-300. Your views will be mostly panoramic. The 35 will do you best if your have iffy weather, otherwise the 18-300. Upping your ISO, as you know, will allow you to increase shutter speeds. I would also suggest that you invest in a circular polarizing filter for the 18-300. It will add drama to the clouds and cut out glare. Even if the plane doesn’t work out, there will be pontoon boat excursions that will take you up close and personal to the fjords, glaciers, etc.

mawarzoc

We did a “flightseeing” excursion out of Denali a few years ago flying on a ten passenger, 60’s era Dehavviland. The flight included landing on a snow covered glacier where we spent about a half hour before taking off again. You will be
shooting through plexiglass. I was seated (by weight) in the last row (2 seats) and shot with Nikon D4 and a 28-70
lens. Spectacular views and well worth the money. The elbow room is tight so a long lens is not practical. In many
instances, I aimed my camera and shot without looking through the viewfinder because I could not twist myself
around for some shots. You wear a headset and can converse with the pilot (and passengers). I agree there is a
certain amount of vibration so you do not want your lens to touch the plexiglass to “steady” the camera.
By all means go for it and enjoy!