BebuLamar

For slides I would simply set the camera on standard or neutral in picture control. Without the slide in place I would white balance on the light source and set the exposure so that a test shot would render near 255,255,255. Then for the same settings you can simply shoot the slides. If the slides are good no further PP is needed. The resulting images would look very much like the slides. You may want to correct exposure for underexposed slides and correct the color balance for faded slides.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Actually, Bebu, I am using an SB-600 as my light source. I attached it to the hot shoe via an SC-28 TTL remote cord and I set the WB to "Flash." I did find that Neutral works best "most of the time", although on some of the more contrasty slides, a Picture Control that I wrote holds the mid-tones and highlights but pulls a touch more detail out of the shadows. I have noticed that, in shooting RAW + JPG, the JPG files look quite good but "clock-in" around mid 20s for megapixels. If you want the 40s and 50s, you need the NEF files.

d2b2 Loc: Catonsville, Maryland, USA

Thank you.

alx Loc: NJ

I'd be interested if someone could post some samples.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Well, I'm kinda just getting going but I'll try to show you something. I shot the Glade Creek Grist Mill on Fujichrome some time back. I scanned it on my HP S20 PhotoSmart slide scanner. Felt it was just OK. Below that I'll post what I got with the D850 and ES2. Both images are re-sized to 2000 pixel wide Jpgs.

HP S20 PhotoSmart Scan

(Download)

D850 ES2 Version

(Download)

Bill_de Loc: US

I think I just added something else to my shopping list. Thanks.

--

alx Loc: NJ

Thank you for posting. It does perform quite credibly. Another item for the list. (2 with the lens.)

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

I also have one of these but have not had the time to test it. Now that summer is here and many sports are on holiday, I expect to play soon. My purchase was specifically for slides but I suspect I will play with negatives as well. Although I do have an older Nikon Coolscan 4000 unit, I expect this to be much faster, and easier, as I do not have a slide loader for that unit and the actual scanning takes 'forever'. This unit is designed with the D850 in mind but, as stated before, will work with many other bodies. I also purchased a used 60/2.8 Macro lens (not even a 'D' type), so I'll also be seeing how that works out. I had heard the delay in release was due to making sure it was compatible with Nikon's new 60 Macro (have no idea where that it). Should be fun. Best of luck.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

OMG I love the warm explosion of colors, and dark shadows with splashes of color, in that 2nd shot. Gotta love film! (Well I do anyway).

jscorbin Loc: Woodinville, WA

There are useful tips in Nikon's Tips and Tricks section for the D850. See http://imaging.nikon.com/support/digitutor/d850.html
The section "Digitizing Film Ⅰ, the Basics: Digitizing Negatives" applies only to the D850, although you could use other Nikon FX cameras and Photoshop to convert the negatives.
Many of the tips in "Digitizing Film Ⅱ, Master Class: Digitizing Negatives and Positives" would also be useful with other Nikon FX cameras.

I'm using a D850 and the 60mm f/2.8 Micro lens. It works very well, and it is possible to adjust the slide or negative distance from the lens and the angle, as well as move the slide horizontally. However, it works best to carefully set the position of the slide and focus using Live View, and then lock the adapter in place. If you move the tube much out beyond the closest setting, you will have to manually crop the image in post, which is more time-consuming.

One problem is that the slide adapter accepts only the thin cardboard-mount slides. It will not take the slightly thicker plastic mounts. I have also used the Nikon SuperCoolscan 5000, with VueScan software. I prefer using the ES-2; it is much faster and I get a better image.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Thanks for the hyper link. I had not known about that one. I did see a U-Tube video that was very helpful. Had never made use of Live View before and with the grid screen in Live View, things got a whole lot better with far fewer "out-of-kilter" results. I also am using my trusty 60mm Micro and "I'm Lovin' It." One thing though, I have a number of slides mounted in plastic mounts and have not had any trouble using them with the ES-2. Some are from Fujichromes, others are, I believe, ones that were used after having the slides digitized by Kodak on Photo CDs (remember them?) and Kodak must have destroyed the cardboard mounts in the process..

D750

Is this a workable situation on a D750? Thanks!

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Actually, yes. But to get the highest possible MPs and the widest possible Dynamic Range, a D850 or, perhaps, a D810 would be better.

Ckautzman

I notice that most of you use Nikon equipment. I shoot w Canon so wonder if you have any specific recommendations for Canon. My highest end camera is the 7Dll. My macro, however, is a Sigma 105mm, an older lens from my past life that i once used w film to create effects shooting slides through artistic glass much like we do today w filters in PS and LR. I guess the set-up is what i'll have to work on. Thanks for any info.

JimRPhoto Loc: Raleigh NC

When you read the listings for the Nikon ES-2, it is designed to be used with the D850, which I do not have. But if you have the D850, you have two advantages. With the correct lens as recommended by Nikon, you will have optical compatibility. (I had to try out many combinations of camera body and lens.). Also apparently the D850 has a built in mechanism to “invert” negatives to positive images. I do that with PS since I’m not using Nikon equipment other than the ES-2. Because different films had different chemistry requirements to develop, the color may need to be adjusted manually after you “invert” with PS.

As to the suggestion on an Epson scanner, as I mention in the original post, my scanner will not “focus” each slide, so that some slides are scanned quite well, but maybe half of them are not in focus. With the autofocus feature in the camera, each slide is in as good a focus as you can get. Plus which, we already have camera gear and lenses, and for a very modest investment (for me the ES-2 was $99 at my local camera shop) you can do this. So for me, I will no longer use my slide scanner/negative scanner, as the optical method is so much better as described initially. I’m very grateful to the Australian UHH post that introduced me to this fast, high quality way to retrieve all my old slides. Thanks to all for great contributions to this post. JimR