I'm not sure exactly how to phrase this. I see quite a few landscape photographs that are really sharp and distinct. Now, in my 77 years, I have traveled quite a lot around the world and I just have never seen landscapes that really looked like that. I find the pictures to be very good and generally quite striking but they do not reflect what I think I have seen. Having said that, I would like to know how the "enhanced" effects are achieved. I'm guessing that it involves a lot of contrast and some method of increasing sharpness. I have been using very good cameras (Nikon D-800 and now a new D-850) along with the important primes and telephoto lenses and a tripod but I don't get the definition I see in so many photos here. My comments are not meant to criticize anyone's results but to learn what post processing results in such distinct pictures. I hope I have made myself clear.
Scotty

I suspect that what you're seeing in others' photos is not sharpness but vividness down to the level of fine detail. That can give the impression of sharpness. It's achieved in post processing by Contrast, Clarity, Vibrance/Saturation and, yes, extra sharpness does help, as does Structure when it's available.

The quickest way to an over-cooked look is to overdo any of these adjustments, and the trick is knowing how far you can push them and still maintain a semblance of a natural look. You're probably used to having your photographs stay looking like photographs, but a photographer skilled in PP will know how to take his edits beyond that point (for the sake of visual interest) and still retain a credible look. And people who sell photos will tell you that for the most part, a vivid look sells better than a purely natural look.

I find the easiest steps in post processing have the largest payback. My camera is set for fine jpg plus RAW. I use the jpg files to review which RAW image I want to process. I open the RAW image in Photoshop. I select the image tab on top and select auto color, auto contrast and auto tone, one at a time. I can undo any of these after selecting them with Edit/ undo if I don't like the effect. I select image/adjustments/ "Shadows/Highlights" and play with the sliders. It only takes a few minutes, and it's what I do on all of my pics. The results are significant and the effort minimal.

There is a focus stacking app built into PS. You shoot the series with different focus points, select the series in LR and under Photo - "edit in" you go to the bottom of the list and click "open as layers in PS". Then in PS you select all the layers and under edit you will find Auto align and Auto blend.
First use Auto Align and it lines the images up to correct any camera movement during the exposures. Then do Auto blend and it will process the images to use the sharp parts of each. There are options for different things that will effect the results. PS is considered a fairly simple version. Helicon Focus & Zerene Stacker are the leading apps. Franzis Projects Pro also has a focus stacking app. I own and am learning the Helicon and Franzis apps - in the meantime I use PS. They also make apps for use with a laptop or desktop where you "tether" the camera and control the focus and shots process. The old fashioned/hard way is to change the focus manually for each shot. A ROYAL PAIN. I saw a demo (and have tried it) where the lens was on manual focus, focused on the near edge of the subject and the camera moved in as a burst is fired. It works, sorta, a high rate of failure until you have practiced a lot and then still lots of failures. But it will work when no other method is available.

Helicon also makes the Helicon FB Tube - it goes between the camera and the lens (only available for Canon and Nikon) and has a processor (controlled by an app on a smart phone or tablet) and can be set for # of shots, f-stop etc and when a burst is fired it automatically changes the focus for each frame. A very slow burst rate helps you count the frames, or just fire a burst and count frames-dumping the extras. I just got a wired remote shutter release that allows setting the # of frames in a burst so you can match with the FB Tube. This should help avoid needing to dump a lot of extra frames.

I'm not sure exactly how to phrase this. I see quite a few landscape photographs that are really sharp and distinct. Now, in my 77 years, I have traveled quite a lot around the world and I just have never seen landscapes that really looked like that. I find the pictures to be very good and generally quite striking but they do not reflect what I think I have seen. Having said that, I would like to know how the "enhanced" effects are achieved. I'm guessing that it involves a lot of contrast and some method of increasing sharpness. I have been using very good cameras (Nikon D-800 and now a new D-850) along with the important primes and telephoto lenses and a tripod but I don't get the definition I see in so many photos here. My comments are not meant to criticize anyone's results but to learn what post processing results in such distinct pictures. I hope I have made myself clear.
Scotty