SAVH Loc: La Jolla, CA

I'm not sure exactly how to phrase this. I see quite a few landscape photographs that are really sharp and distinct. Now, in my 77 years, I have traveled quite a lot around the world and I just have never seen landscapes that really looked like that. I find the pictures to be very good and generally quite striking but they do not reflect what I think I have seen. Having said that, I would like to know how the "enhanced" effects are achieved. I'm guessing that it involves a lot of contrast and some method of increasing sharpness. I have been using very good cameras (Nikon D-800 and now a new D-850) along with the important primes and telephoto lenses and a tripod but I don't get the definition I see in so many photos here. My comments are not meant to criticize anyone's results but to learn what post processing results in such distinct pictures. I hope I have made myself clear.
Scotty

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

Focus stacking is one method. Multiple shots focused at different distances and then blended by software to produce an image that is sharp from near to far. It is also used a lot in macro photography to get the subjects sharp (macro lens have a very shallow depth of field in general).

SAVH Loc: La Jolla, CA

Robert, Thank you for your quick response. Does focus stacking require a "plug in" to LR or PS? I gather it requires a tripod and a set of bracketed shots. Are there different blending procedures or systems? Post processing is not my strength - yet.
Scotty

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Before going into focus stacking... (dof or super resolution)

You my want to check if your lenses are set for your camera. Check Steve Perry video on how to set your lens.

Steve is a UHH member and you can contact him directly.

SAVH Loc: La Jolla, CA

Rongnongno, Thank you. I have followed a number of your comments and appreciate your serious approach. I have Steve Perry's book (but have not finished it by any means) and I do follow his videos and inputs. I use all Nikon lenses. Primarily I use the Nikon 24-70 VR model, the 28-300 zoom, the 16-35 zoom, the 200-500 zoom, the 70-200 zoom and a few others. I am pretty sure they are compatible. I use a tripod mostly but I don't see the striking sharpness in the pictures that I see here in the UHH examples. Since my eyes are not seeing the same thing that I see in many of the great photos shown here, I am presuming (I know that is a shaky thing to do) that much of the difference comes in the PP. Maybe not and I have to take a round turn on my personal photo capabilities to match the level of results I see here.

Scotty

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

There is a focus stacking app built into PS. You shoot the series with different focus points, select the series in LR and under Photo - "edit in" you go to the bottom of the list and click "open as layers in PS". Then in PS you select all the layers and under edit you will find Auto align and Auto blend.
First use Auto Align and it lines the images up to correct any camera movement during the exposures. Then do Auto blend and it will process the images to use the sharp parts of each. There are options for different things that will effect the results. PS is considered a fairly simple version. Helicon Focus & Zerene Stacker are the leading apps. Franzis Projects Pro also has a focus stacking app. I own and am learning the Helicon and Franzis apps - in the meantime I use PS. They also make apps for use with a laptop or desktop where you "tether" the camera and control the focus and shots process. The old fashioned/hard way is to change the focus manually for each shot. A ROYAL PAIN. I saw a demo (and have tried it) where the lens was on manual focus, focused on the near edge of the subject and the camera moved in as a burst is fired. It works, sorta, a high rate of failure until you have practiced a lot and then still lots of failures. But it will work when no other method is available.

Helicon also makes the Helicon FB Tube - it goes between the camera and the lens (only available for Canon and Nikon) and has a processor (controlled by an app on a smart phone or tablet) and can be set for # of shots, f-stop etc and when a burst is fired it automatically changes the focus for each frame. A very slow burst rate helps you count the frames, or just fire a burst and count frames-dumping the extras. I just got a wired remote shutter release that allows setting the # of frames in a burst so you can match with the FB Tube. This should help avoid needing to dump a lot of extra frames.

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Scotty, everyone is capable of getting sharp image (if I can, so can you). Just go through the fine tuning offered by Steve and you will be surprised by the results. You ARE capable of it and so is your camera.

PP does not correct out of focus. It can palliate for 'near focus' but not all that much.

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

Scotty, without seeing your pictures, we cannot really help. Sharpness is like beauty; it is in the eyes of the beholder. I suspect you may be comparing your relatively unprocessed shots to those that are very processed. Simple or complex processing such as HDR can improve a photo dramatically. When done well, the viewer is unaware of how much processing is there. I also suspect, without seeing your pictures but based upon your experience, that your shots are acceptably sharp. They may lack the snap of processed pictures, especially depending upon the picture quality setting in your camera if you are shooting raw which you should be.

I hope you will post a few of your shots. If you do, include the raws.

d3200prime

Are you using a delayed shutter device?

Tim Stapp Loc: Mid Mitten

Since you are using a tripod, are you turning of the VR on the lens?

SAVH Loc: La Jolla, CA

Robert, again, thank you for your explanations. I will look into some of the plug-ins and try to expand my post processing capabilities.
Scotty

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Scotty, You have good lenses and good cameras so I'll assume your tripod is of the same caliber. Often those sharp images you see here on UHH are the result of technique more so than equipment. One technique that is in current use here is image stitching in post processing. Using this method you can use multiple images taken with a longer lens, resulting in higher detail content. That will give the overall image an appearance of being sharper. Of course there is also attention camera stability and proper shutter speed above all else.

PS: Using a touch of haze reduction in post doesn't hurt (usually)

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

I find the easiest steps in post processing have the largest payback. My camera is set for fine jpg plus RAW. I use the jpg files to review which RAW image I want to process. I open the RAW image in Photoshop. I select the image tab on top and select auto color, auto contrast and auto tone, one at a time. I can undo any of these after selecting them with Edit/ undo if I don't like the effect. I select image/adjustments/ "Shadows/Highlights" and play with the sliders. It only takes a few minutes, and it's what I do on all of my pics. The results are significant and the effort minimal.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

One thing that hasn't been touched on yet, I don't think, is the weather when/where you take your photos. The ultra-dry clear air of the desert or some of the mountain areas may produce very different results from near the ocean in heavily populated southern California.

I have to ask: since you're a retired Navy sub captain (I'm a retired PN1, land assignments only), I have to know if you have ever watched the movie "The Hunt for Red October," and if yes, do you identify with the character played by Scott Glenn?

R.G. Loc: Scotland

I suspect that what you're seeing in others' photos is not sharpness but vividness down to the level of fine detail. That can give the impression of sharpness. It's achieved in post processing by Contrast, Clarity, Vibrance/Saturation and, yes, extra sharpness does help, as does Structure when it's available.

The quickest way to an over-cooked look is to overdo any of these adjustments, and the trick is knowing how far you can push them and still maintain a semblance of a natural look. You're probably used to having your photographs stay looking like photographs, but a photographer skilled in PP will know how to take his edits beyond that point (for the sake of visual interest) and still retain a credible look. And people who sell photos will tell you that for the most part, a vivid look sells better than a purely natural look.