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understanding monitor calibration..
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Apr 14, 2018 22:15:54   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
canon Lee wrote:
Cal kit?


Calibration kit from either X-Rite or DataColor. Don’t get the base model. You want one with the ability to set black point, white point, gamma, and work with the monitor controls that are available (either RGB sliders, or color temperature, or simply a backlight (brightness) control.

The software should guide you through all the steps, regardless of monitor type.

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Apr 14, 2018 22:26:31   #
tomcat
 
canon Lee wrote:
I don't understand how monitor screen "brightness" is calibrated into calibrating the monitor.. Seems I can set it to any brightness I want....
I am not concerned about "color" but about screen BRIGHTNESS ( as my prints are dark and do not match the monitors brightness)... I am aware that when matching the print to the monitor the monitor, due to being back lit will always look brighter. I outsource my prints and they are always dark.... I am using the ColorMunki photo, and it tells me to;
" before beginning reset display to factory settings"? How do I find "factory settings " on my iMAC 27 using macOS sierra? I go to system preferences/displays/display/and I see a radio button for default display, or is it for resolution?
The brightness can be adjusted to anything???? How do I know if I'm set to the "Factory default? Is the brightness changed from what I have it set to? Just how does the ColorMunki adjust brightness?
I don't understand how monitor screen "bright... (show quote)


When using the iMac monitor, you should move the slider for display brightness to be between the "i" and "c" in the word "automatically" (System Preferences/Display). I carried my monitor to my professional print lab to match it to their monitors and printers. This setting between i and c gave me perfect prints. Your iMac monitor is too bright and when you try to reduce the exposure in PS or LR, you are reducing the exposure down too much. By reducing the brightness of the monitor, using my suggestion as a starting point, you should be closer to matching your printer.

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Apr 14, 2018 22:46:06   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Get a reference image file and a reference print made from it. Better Labs will have sets of these. If the reference print does not look like the same image on your monitor, re-calibrate and re-profile the monitor.

Be sure you use the printer profile as a proofing profile. Every printer and paper (and ink) combination must have its own profile, and the software you use must use that profile. Adjust images using the specific profile you will print through. Better labs will give you their profile(s) when they provide a reference image and print.

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Apr 15, 2018 03:43:08   #
Dennis833 Loc: Australia
 
I use a Spyder pro on my Mac Pro and the software tells me the brightness level. You could try lowering the brightness level first with a slider before you calibrate. The ColorMunki should tell you the brightness level at some stage in the calibrations.
canon Lee wrote:
I need a how to.... I am using an iMAC 27/ macOS Sierra... Late 2012... I will be using LR Classic CC I am not sure My Mac has a way to set brightness "numerically", all I see is a slider and its set to midway... I would need instructions for a Mac....
I cant rely on the brightness of my monitor so I use my Histogram in LR...
Most comments here are about "color" not brightness..
I have been using the same color lab for a long time and have experimented with adjustments in LR so that I can get the prints consistently the way I want them.... I know if I send my files to them without any PP, the blacks will be overly dense and have no detail... So its important that I send them a boosted mid tone file upping my shadow slider... its just one of many tweaks I do...
I need a how to.... I am using an iMAC 27/ macOS S... (show quote)

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Apr 15, 2018 13:04:47   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Dennis833 wrote:
I use a Spyder pro on my Mac Pro and the software tells me the brightness level. You could try lowering the brightness level first with a slider before you calibrate. The ColorMunki should tell you the brightness level at some stage in the calibrations.


Exactly. For a good starting point, I like one third of the fader travel from the left. iMacs are WAY too bright, out of the box. Remember that we’re simulating the reflectivity of paper, which, at best, reflects 90% of light falling on it.

Most monitors are just re-purposed TV sets. They have a native color temperature of 9300K, gamma 2.2, and a white point of 200 to 400 cd/m^2. It takes a lot of “de-tuning” calibration to make them useful for photography.

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Apr 15, 2018 14:19:41   #
bdk Loc: Sanibel Fl.
 
Ive wondered if Color Munki doesnt calibrate brightness. Ive heard a few people with this complaint . I calibrate my monitor then edit a pic, then print it and its always too dark too. For me I use PS and brighten the color .60 to 1 and it works for me though it is a pain. Ive tried darkening the monitor but just couldnt get the right results.

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Apr 15, 2018 14:26:43   #
tomcat
 
bdk wrote:
Ive wondered if Color Munki doesnt calibrate brightness. Ive heard a few people with this complaint . I calibrate my monitor then edit a pic, then print it and its always too dark too. For me I use PS and brighten the color .60 to 1 and it works for me though it is a pain. Ive tried darkening the monitor but just couldnt get the right results.


Try my suggestion above, if you have an iMac

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Apr 15, 2018 15:32:46   #
rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA
 
canon Lee wrote:
I need a how to.... I am using an iMAC 27/ macOS Sierra... Late 2012... I will be using LR Classic CC I am not sure My Mac has a way to set brightness "numerically", all I see is a slider and its set to midway... I would need instructions for a Mac....
I cant rely on the brightness of my monitor so I use my Histogram in LR...
Most comments here are about "color" not brightness..
I have been using the same color lab for a long time and have experimented with adjustments in LR so that I can get the prints consistently the way I want them.... I know if I send my files to them without any PP, the blacks will be overly dense and have no detail... So its important that I send them a boosted mid tone file upping my shadow slider... its just one of many tweaks I do...
I need a how to.... I am using an iMAC 27/ macOS S... (show quote)


The Spyder software shows you where to adjust brightness, it would be simple task to dial it in with the iOS slider.

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Apr 19, 2018 14:43:29   #
canon Lee
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I keep it simple and don't calibrate.


Hi Jerry... For me I do commercial photography and prints have to be on the button... If I were to adjust in LR with an uncalibrated monitor how would I know how accurate the prints will be?

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Apr 19, 2018 14:52:02   #
canon Lee
 
bdk wrote:
Ive wondered if Color Munki doesnt calibrate brightness. Ive heard a few people with this complaint . I calibrate my monitor then edit a pic, then print it and its always too dark too. For me I use PS and brighten the color .60 to 1 and it works for me though it is a pain. Ive tried darkening the monitor but just couldnt get the right results.


Hi I have had the same problems.. I solve it in LR by tweaking the "shadow & black" sliders so that I can see the most details without making the contrast look flat ( shadow slider brings up the overall background lighter)..... A back and forth between the highlights and exposure gives me a bit more brightness, actually I move the highlight slider fully to the left and tweak the exposure looking at the histogram.... Generally my prints come back from the Lab ok.. Color labs tend to make the blacks too dense for glossy paper.... But I like starting with a reliable calibrated monitor...

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Apr 19, 2018 19:09:05   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
canon Lee wrote:
Hi I have had the same problems.. I solve it in LR by tweaking the "shadow & black" sliders so that I can see the most details without making the contrast look flat ( shadow slider brings up the overall background lighter)..... A back and forth between the highlights and exposure gives me a bit more brightness, actually I move the highlight slider fully to the left and tweak the exposure looking at the histogram.... Generally my prints come back from the Lab ok.. Color labs tend to make the blacks too dense for glossy paper.... But I like starting with a reliable calibrated monitor...
Hi I have had the same problems.. I solve it in L... (show quote)


In an 8-bit image printed on silver halide papers, tonal values below about 12 to 18 print as black. Tones from 242-255 tend to print as white. Keeping that in mind when tweaking images for printing will help retain printable detail.

OTOH, good, property calibrated monitors can display 0-255.

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