joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

I have been using flash extenders for many years. There is an article on the Hog that I helped author which explains why you might want to use one.

This review is intended to explain my experience using 3 of the main extenders brand. All extend flash distance close to 2 stops and are designed for use with 300mm or greater lenses, otherwise they vignette horribly.

1. Better Beamer:

Pluses:
Its light and easy to carry in your bag because it comes apart and takes up less space than the other two. Its the least expensive of the 3.

Minuses:
It is susceptible to misalignment but can be circumvented with some creative shimming. Also the Velcro for attachment will pull off eventually with repeated disassembly. It can cause vibration in windy conditions due to its profile and length.

2. Harbor Digital XT

Pluses:
Set up is simple and aligns well. It too is light and disassembles for storage or trans port. It proved to be slightly more powerful than the BB, although the test with a flash meter took place after I modified it by lining the inside with foil. Perhaps not a fair comparison, but I'm not about to remove the foil.

Minuses:
It costs a little more than the BB and takes up more space when disassembled. This is the one I prefer since I don't travel with it although I still use the BB too, but it only fits my SB800s. I believe other attachments are available.

3. Magmod Wildlife Kit

Pluses:
The most creative design of the 3. It is made of a rubber compound and appears to be very durable. It too breaks down for storage or transport. The lens assembly attaches by built in magnets. The piece for the flash head will fit many different flashes because it stretches. The bodys fold for two different extensions.

Minuses:
Its heavy and drooped the flash head, which I corrected with a shim under the head. Its the most expensive of the 3. Although the rubber stretches the holder is difficult to put on or off. The magnets are powerful making the lens assembly hard to remove. The collapsible body took some effort to move positions. Overall I felt as if the flash was being abused when adding or removing the extender.

I really wanted to like this one but decided to return it for fear of damaging my flashes.

LightBender Loc: Paradise, TX

They all have good and bad points. I own the Harbor Digital XT and Magmod Wildlife Kit. I prefer the Magmod because of the ability to remove via the magnet. The Harbor Digital was always falling off. Alignment is a problem with all of them. You have to take test shots on an object like a tree to align them.

agillot

i use a better beamer , i did mounted permanently on a older manual flash , great for birds in shade .it fit in a large belt bag , so , if i need it , it is there .

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

I don't understand why people complain so much about the installation of the MagMod mount for Speedlites. Put it on once and leave it on... Why take it on and off? I have had the mounts on my Speedlites for years with no issues.

I do agree that the Speedlites need to have better and stronger mechanisms for holding different angles. That improvement should not be that hard to design into the next generation of Speedlites. But if you look at the capabilities of Speedlites 5-10 years ago vs today they have come a long way.

It sounds to me that your assessment is that each solution is a compromise. That is true but I am very happy with the MagMod overall systems capabilities and ease of use as a Speedlite modifier platform...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

All of my birds in flight are taken early in the morning with the sun behind me. I do this for two reasons, the birds are beautifully lite and I do not need a flash extender. Never found it to be useful. I shoot a 10 frames a second, and yes, the extender will work for the first shot, but cannot recycle fast enough for the others. So, thanks but no thanks on the extenders.

neilds37 Loc: Port Angeles, WA

Comparatively, I have an econo model of speedlight, and it recycles as fast as I can press the shutter for five or six shots. I'm also shooting a 1/2" sensor, so the extender is used in all cases, and has given many excellent BIF photos that would have not been possible without it.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-453261-1.html
To each his own.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

I use the Better Beamer.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

10 Frames a second is a LOT, LOT faster than just pressing the shutter as fast as you can. When birds land and take off timing is of the essence. I would miss too much using my finger to press the shutter each time. I am happy it works for you though.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

And 10 frames a second is still only a frame every tenth of a second. So, from my experience shooting action it is still understand the action you are shooting and also be able to anticipate the action, movement and direction of movement. As a simple example birds take off and land in the direction they are facing...not the opposite direction I hope... I have read that they take off and land into the wind...but that may apply to larger birds more than song birds...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I do have a Better Beamer, and it's ok for its purpose, I have never used it for BIF.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

It is nearly impossible to anticipate the actions of a bird landing with a stick in it's mouth to hand it off to a female. I can only shoot at 10 fps, if I had a Canon, I could shoot at 14 fps. I wish I could shoot at 20 fps. Yes, you can get lucky every once in a while anticipating with single shots, but your success rate is lower than shooting faster. I have been doing this for over 20 years and FPS is everything IF your looking for that ONE LOOK, ONE EXPRESSION, ONE MOMENT FROZEN IN TIME.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Just like it is hard to anticipate a nitrous backfire or a motor explosion in a drag car. But the point is to know your action and anticipate when you can. When I hear the revs come up on the motor and when I start to see the rear tire wrinkle I know it is time to start squeezing the shutter release. Ten frames is good and 14 may or may not be better. I can shoot 14 but find I can get just about as good of results in drag racing shooting 6-7 fps. Of course if one is using Speedlites or other lights it is not possible to keep up and I think it might be a distraction to the drivers if you could. I guess in theory there are battery powered lights that might recycle fast enough if you want to spend the money to buy them and can get enough light at the speed they can recycle. Do you ever think of just shooting video and pulling stills out of that? Or is that just another set of issues in shooting birds?

Best,
Todd Ferguson

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Bill, have your anyone else done any experimenting with high speed sync(HSS)?
In my mind seems like it may work for a bust. Maybe depends on how far the subject is.
SS

BebuLamar

I wish that I can find a Metz Tele adapter for my 60CT4

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

An interesting idea HSS... But I believe it would take away a lot of power from the Speedlite because the HSS is pulsing the flash very rapidly. The question is whether the modifier could bring some of the focused light back enough to get a decent exposure. I believe the distance would be limited a lot and overheating might be an issue if you want to fire frames close together. I might have to give it a try this week just for grins and see what happens with the MagMod gear...

One might have to bump up ISO too... what sort of distance are we trying to get the light to reach?

Best,
Todd Ferguson