Stacking Filters
Jun 17, 2012 19:39:50 #
When I shoot under a green tree canopy or in a location I will get a green reflection on the subject, I sometimes also want the blue sky to pop, so I will load a CPL filter over an FLD filter. Is there a preference for which should go on top? Are there pitfalls to stacking filters?
Thanks
Thanks
Jun 17, 2012 21:02:15 #
I don't know about stacking order, but you will get degrading of the sharpness of the lens, by adding filter on top of one another. Usually not recommended. A neutral density might work better.
Mike
Mike
Jun 17, 2012 21:04:54 #
renomike wrote:
I don't know about stacking order, but you will get degrading of the sharpness of the lens, by adding filter on top of one another. Usually not recommended.
Mike
Mike
I wondered. I will have to try each on its own in different environs and test for effect. Why do you suppose they have two sided threads, anyway?
Jun 17, 2012 21:33:07 #
You don't need an FLD with digital since digital has variable white balance.
Yes, you can stack a couple of filters on a lens, but you risk vignetting - especially at any of the wider focal lengths. The order doesn't matter. If you decide to do so, make sure you leave space around the subject for cropping out the dark corners or plan to spend time in post.
One way to avoid vignetting is to go with filters larger than the lens needs and use a step-down ring. this is also a way to keep from buying duplicate filters - just get them to fit your largest diameter lens and step-down rings to fit the other lenses.
Yes, you can stack a couple of filters on a lens, but you risk vignetting - especially at any of the wider focal lengths. The order doesn't matter. If you decide to do so, make sure you leave space around the subject for cropping out the dark corners or plan to spend time in post.
One way to avoid vignetting is to go with filters larger than the lens needs and use a step-down ring. this is also a way to keep from buying duplicate filters - just get them to fit your largest diameter lens and step-down rings to fit the other lenses.
Jun 17, 2012 21:42:02 #
snowbear wrote:
You don't need an FLD with digital since digital h... (show quote)
AH, thank you. I've not noticed the vignetting on this set - they are all the same size as the lense. I tried the FLD because I was getting a green tint under a tree canopy, and it takes it away. I tried adjusting the RAW in bridge, but wasn't happy with the results. I need to look at those partcular pictures and my default settings to see if I had/have auto white balance turned off. Maybe that's the problem. I tend to think the AWB is too hot when I have a vivid setup. I generally adjust the white balance by temperature. Maybe I should go with AWB and adjust the blacks and fill light in PP.
Jun 17, 2012 22:40:03 #
If you are shooting raw, the vivid, etc shouldn't have any effect - they are supposed to be for JPEG only. I shoot raw and auto WB. It gives me a good, natural look and I rarely have to adjust it. When I do, it's only been very slight adjustments. I haven't used bridge for anything but browsing and some keywording - most of my edits are done in Lightroom.
Jun 17, 2012 23:38:23 #
FLD filters provide correct color, removing harsh green cast caused by fluorescent bulbs. You're outside right?
Jun 17, 2012 23:45:03 #
Do you find that your pictures are getting underexposed? That's the problem I have. For every filter I add I have change my f-stop or shutter speed (not necessary when shooting in AUTO). I do a lot of photography around fast moving water. In extremely bright conditions such as high noon or on winter days with clear sky on snow covered ground I use ND 2 and ND 3 filters in order to get the "smooth" effect of the water.
Jun 17, 2012 23:48:03 #
Jun 17, 2012 23:51:49 #
When using ND filters its always a good idea to bracket your exposures. I often taken a normal, plus 3 over and 3 under exposures. I usually get a really great single exposure but I always get a great HDR photo.
Jun 18, 2012 06:24:25 #
St3v3M wrote:
FLD filters provide correct color, removing harsh green cast caused by fluorescent bulbs. You're outside right?
Yes. I tried the filter for the spectrum effect on green and it worked. Here's a comparison:
No Filter
Filter
Jun 18, 2012 06:30:02 #
Lionsgate wrote:
Do you find that your pictures are getting underexposed? That's the problem I have. For every filter I add I have change my f-stop or shutter speed (not necessary when shooting in AUTO). I do a lot of photography around fast moving water. In extremely bright conditions such as high noon or on winter days with clear sky on snow covered ground I use ND 2 and ND 3 filters in order to get the "smooth" effect of the water.
Not typically. I've been shooting in fairly good light and I am usually at f3.5 to f5.
In the green example I posted, I was at f5.6, 100ISO, 1/8 sec shutter, 67mm on a tripod. That's a really good example of the hue I'm getting under the trees.
Jun 18, 2012 06:30:40 #
Jun 18, 2012 06:39:12 #
Lionsgate wrote:
When using ND filters its always a good idea to bracket your exposures. I often taken a normal, plus 3 over and 3 under exposures. I usually get a really great single exposure but I always get a great HDR photo.
Hmmm, good idea. I'll give that a try. I've not tried to bracket under those conditions. Let you know what happens.
Jun 18, 2012 08:22:45 #
Smokenmirrorss wrote:
I wondered. I will have to try each on its own in different environs and test for effect. Why do you suppose they have two sided threads, anyway?
renomike wrote:
I don't know about stacking order, but you will get degrading of the sharpness of the lens, by adding filter on top of one another. Usually not recommended.
Mike
Mike
I wondered. I will have to try each on its own in different environs and test for effect. Why do you suppose they have two sided threads, anyway?
Two sided threads - to allow attaching a lens hood, or a lens cap.
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