Focus Problem with New Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E: I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present. In this link I posted my very first shot with the new lens:...

davefales Loc: Virginia

I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present. In this link I posted my very first shot with the new lens: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-431349-1.html

I believe the eye of the squirrel is in decent focus.

Every shot I have taken with that lens since (birds, individual leaves) seems out of focus. I use back button focus with the AF-L button on my D7000 set to AF-On and the A1 and A2 priority both set to release, not focus. When I BBF with my favorite 17-55mm f/2.8 lens I hear nothing other than the actual shutter movement when I hit the release button. And
I think my focus with the 17-55 is good.

However, when I BBF the long lens, I hear motor movement when I depress the shutter release button. And my images are not in focus.

I am investigating back focus and have run a test on a distinctive leaf about 25' away. I have used increments of 5 from -20 to +20 with no discernible improvement in the focus.

I know there are lots of long lens users here. Are focus problems common with long lenses? Appreciate any help/advice you can share.

Bazbo Loc: Lisboa, Portugal

davefales wrote:

I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present... (show quote)

Long lens focus is a problem. I also have this lens and use BBF and I needed the learn the difference between out of focus and camera movement. The slightest camera movement will be significantly amplified at range, even with the 4 stop VR. This lens is a beast and it takes a lot of practice (at least it did for me) to handle it adroitly (still learning in fact).

Hope this helps and good luck.

davefales Loc: Virginia

Bazbo wrote:

Long lens focus is a problem. I also have this lens and use BBF and I needed the learn the difference between out of focus and camera movement. The slightest camera movement will be significantly amplified at range, even with the 4 stop VR. This lens is a beast and it takes a lot of practice (at least it did for me) to handle it adroitly (still learning in fact).

Hope this helps and good luck.

\

Thanks for replying. It reminded me that I did not set the scene completely. I have the lens mounted on a tripod and am using both the remote release and the normal release button. Both seem to trigger a slight motor action...but I cannot actually detect a change of focus through the viewfinder.

JR45 Loc: Montgomery County, TX

I got this lens in October. It hasn't been used as much as I would like to, and mostly in MF.
I do not have a noise problem when in AF mode. Maybe it needs to be checked out.

Bazbo Loc: Lisboa, Portugal

davefales wrote:

\

Thanks for replying. It reminded me that I did not set the scene completely. I have the lens mounted on a tripod and am using both the remote release and the normal release button. Both seem to trigger a slight motor action...but I cannot actually detect a change of focus through the viewfinder.

OK, that eliminates camera movement. Have you tried MF?

Also, try reducing the number of AF points as sometimes too many focus points can confuse the sensor, especially at long range.

Bazbo Loc: Lisboa, Portugal

Bazbo wrote:

OK, that eliminates camera movement. Have you tried MF?

Also, try reducing the number of AF points as sometimes too many focus points can confuse the sensor, especially at long range.

Oh and another suggestion--make sure your min AF point (no matter how many you are using) has not drifted from center. This is persistent problem for me, in bot DX and FX camera bodies.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

davefales wrote:

I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present... (show quote)

I notice that water isn't frozen.

Drip Dry McFleye

Just a thought: I believe the Nikon 200-500 has an electric diaphragm. If that is in fact correct, is it possible that the "slight motor action" you're hearing is the diaphragm closing down before the shutter trips?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

davefales wrote:

\

Thanks for replying. It reminded me that I did not set the scene completely. I have the lens mounted on a tripod and am using both the remote release and the normal release button. Both seem to trigger a slight motor action...but I cannot actually detect a change of focus through the viewfinder.

Shutter shock can and often does impact image sharpness with long lenses with cameras that do not have electronic shutter or electronic first curtain. Remote release, shutter delay, mirror lockup will not necessarily fix the problem. A very sturdy tripod - a Gitzo Series 5 or RRS Series 4 and a solid gimbal head is what you need if you use this lens on a tripod. Remember, you are trying to stabilize a lens with a field of view equivalent to a 750mm lens, and this is something only a VERY stable tripod can do effectively.

I don't think the sounds you are hearing are unusual. You won't hear them or they will be much fainter when using smaller lenses with smaller moving parts. It does sound like you have the stabilization turned on, and you are hearing the small motor moving things around in the lens.

This video by master wildlife photographer, Moose Peterson, should provide some insight on how to maximize sharpness:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8HVPrPzpR4

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

First off you want to change a few settings. Always keep A1 and A2 on Focus for release. This way the camera will not release shutter until camera is focused on subject. On A3 focus tracking with Lock on, I Turn this Off. You camera will lock focus for 1 to 5 seconds depending on which setting you have this on. What this means is your camera will Not refocus as the subject moves. With it in the Off position, the camera continously focuses as subject moves. I would also recommend using Only the center focus point, this way you are telling the camera where to focus. This keeps the camera from picking up other subjects in the frame to focus on. And most important, it takes Lots of practice to get good at moving subjects. I would also recommend Getting Closer than a few hundred feet, less than 100 feet, 50 feet is even better......

davefales wrote:

I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present... (show quote)

Rob Almeda Loc: Gaithersburg, Maryland

I think you got a bad lens. I have an old lens that make noise when I do an AF. I send it for repair and the AF was fine. Send it back until it has a warranty.

davefales wrote:

I'm trying to get used to my new Christmas present... (show quote)

bdk Loc: Sanibel Fl.

I read an article that mentioned you need to hold the focus button from 1 to 3 seconds and then click the pic, some long lenses are much slower to focus than others.
hope that helps. Oh and make sure stabilization is turned off when on a tripod. Leaving it on can blur the photo too

MtnMan Loc: ID

davefales wrote:

\

Thanks for replying. It reminded me that I did not set the scene completely. I have the lens mounted on a tripod and am using both the remote release and the normal release button. Both seem to trigger a slight motor action...but I cannot actually detect a change of focus through the viewfinder.

Maybe you are hearing VR?

Notice Nikon recommends leaving VR on with a tripod for the 200-500.

MtnMan Loc: ID

bdk wrote:

I read an article that mentioned you need to hold the focus button from 1 to 3 seconds and then click the pic, some long lenses are much slower to focus than others.
hope that helps. Oh and make sure stabilization is turned off when on a tripod. Leaving it on can blur the photo too

Not with the Nikon 200-500.

Some images with mine on a D800.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-389048-1.html

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-389160-1.html

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-389474-1.html

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-394565-1.html

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-394617-1.html

Cheated on this one. I was much too close! Probably at the 200 mm end.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-415527-1.html

MtnMan Loc: ID

martinfisherphoto wrote:

First off you want to change a few settings. Alway... (show quote)

I agree with the first point.

But there is no need with a Nikon to limit to center focus. Use single point focus and move it where you want. But you do need to pay attention to it as it easy to move it inadvertently.

I also suggest M mode and auto ISO for wildlife but that doesn't affect focus. I set min shutter speed at 1/500 even with VR on.