Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

The other day I was taking pictures of a little jumping spider that I found in the house. Because it was pretty small, I decided to add some extension tubes to my macro lens to boost the mag a bit more. I had sometimes added a short, 13mm tube, without a perceivable problem (but maybe I should check again). This time I decided to push it further, stacking on some tubes so the total extension on the macro was about 52mm. I definitely had a bit more more mag power. Anyway, it was fun and easy taking a bunch of pictures, only when I looked at them I did not think any came out like I had expected. The picture you see might look fine on your computer moniter, but I expect that when you enlarge in the Download view it will not seem right. At least to me, using Canon ImageBrowser Ex as a viewer, it is not right to me since areas where the critter should have been in sharp focus are not sharp in my opinion.

The equipment and settings: Canon t5i body, a sweet, sweet Canon 100mm f/28 L with IS, ~ 52 mm extension.
Manual mode.
RAW, originally
Shutter: 1/200
Aperture: 16
ISO: 800
Flash: On (i used a flash attached to the hot shoe).

I wondered if I was dealing with a too small 'effective aperture' situation here, shooting at a pretty small aperture + a lot of extension. But I am not sure. Suggestions?

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St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

The first is where the camera focused and the second the same area at 1:1. I hope it helps! S-

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Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

I am not seeing a resolution or focus problem. I am seeing a noise problem generated by relatively high ISO 800. Most macro-photographers shoot at ISO 100 or 200. I typically shoot 1/200-sec at f/16, ISO 200, using diffused speedlight illumination.

jlrivera Loc: Round Lake, Illinois

Usually what is the setting of your flash?

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

The flash was on manual, and I think I set it to 1/8 power for this particular exposure.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I have routinely used higher ISOs with a lower power flash setting. Not sure why I was doing that, really, except that the settings would result in usable pictures. On your advice, I will try to make it so lower ISO is used more often but I expect to make adjustments for that with a stronger flash setting. The speedlight I use is the Neewer NW690, with a conical diffuser attached to it. The diffuser comes out just to the end of the lens.
When I get a chance, I will experiment with this by trying again w/o extension tubes, and also try it with a Raynox lens instead. I will also make adjustments to the lower ISO settings like you suggest.

tinusbum Loc: east texas

When I shoot in the sun, my ISO is 100 (I do not like to shoot in the sun). Mostly where I shoot is under trees, also cloudy days are my favorite. The last couple months my speedlight has been mounted on top, with an 8x12-inch diffuser. I always shoot with 68mm of extension tubes, and my settings are ISO 320, 1/200-sec at f/11, JPG from camera.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

My speedlight is a Nissin Di866. Not all speedlights are equal, so my settings will differ from other speedlight settings. I start my speedlight at 1/4 power, and increase with distance or dark colored subjects, and reduce with very close or very light colored subjects. I use a 6x8-inch softbox diffuser, with speedlight plastic flip-down diffuser deployed (automatically sets speedlight to widest angle), and the softbox internal white cloth diffuser stretched from one side to other. This arrangement allows maximum even diffusion, corner to corner.

FotoDiox 6x8-inch Softbox Diffuser

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

I'll jump in for a minute. I guess you know the closer to the subject you get/due to extension tubes/ the shallower the DoF. Not a problem if you try and get the subject on the same focal plane as your lens. Almost all of the shots I post are at 2:1 magnification, but the DoF seems greater than it is because I'm flat to the subject. I also should mention anytime you use extension tubes, make sure you are not shooting against a background that will reflect light/flash back on you. This light bouncing back down the tubes will give your shot a real contrasty look, like I'm seeing here. I agree with Douglass about the ISO, keep it down, I use 200 myself. Jump in and get your feet wet, put the whole set of tubes on and have some fun.
P.S Big Diffuser, Big, Big: 10x12-inch DIY with a paper towel as the diffuser material. The bigger the soft box, the softer the light, the prettier the photo. Just like for portraiture photography, big soft box, only for macro.
Pictured below is an older diffuser only 8x10-inches.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I will also vary the strength of my flash to find an optimal power for whatever other settings and ambient light conditions are present. Your softbox seems identical to mine. I have modified that by first stiffening it with pieces of coat hanger wire to keep it from bending. Recently I had fastened a sheet of transparency over the face with pieces of the black paper glued around the edges so that the face of the diffuser has an oval instead of rectangular shape. You can probably see that in the reflected eyes of the spider. This makes a more natural highlight on very shiny things like spider eyes. I also have attached some layers of thin white foam into the center to of the transparency to attenuate the most intense area of white coming out of center. That has, I believe, resulted in some good effects where instead of having a blow-out highlight the effect is a softer light.
My equipment priority is to work more on the diffuser.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I had not heard about light bouncing back into extension tubes and adding to contrast. I will have to consider that. Also I totally agree on the diffuser. I have been 'collecting' screen shots of various diffusers online (bookmarking them into a folder I call 'diffuser porn' :) ). Ironically the picture you show is one in my collection. It is among the ones that would most easily accommodate to the flash I have.
When I visit various macro-photography web sites, I really notice how some have the light diffusion thing down. I think some of my pictures are 'good', but those pictures: wow. And a big part of it is the light. That is why my next area of personal growth in this hobby is to play around with diffusers.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Thank you all for your comments! I have a lot to think about. 👍

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

Here's an example of my last jumper shoot. 2:1 mag at f/14 or f/16, ISO200 and with a newer version of my last diffuser. A full size sheet of Bounty paper towel sandwiched between laminate done at office depot. I then shape into a cone slipped over the lens held on with Velcro. I am square to the subject and a huge diffuser. Even the chelicerae is not blown out. I think must of the hard core macro nuts here will tell you diffusion is a well worth quest and in the end will separate your shots from others.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

I have inserted 1-mm diameter carbon-fiber rod into the four corner seams of my softbox. Scott did the same with bamboo shish kabob skewers: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-6.html#3842241 .
Here are a few other methods of accomplishing the same: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-7.html#7068451
We have documented several different diffusion set-ups, starting on page 4: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-4.html

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Yes, I have seen these, and some are in my file. My work window for making one is around Xmas.