Thanks for the info! Those shots look incredible, they have a lot of the postive effects of the HDR's without that pesky "edge glow" which I don't like. I have been doing some luminosity masks so I have an idea of what you are talking about there, the ability to target narrow tonal ranges that are sort of lost in the original, whicy is what HDR does in a different way, or maybe even similar to a kind "tonal equalizer", in music where there are a series of sliders that target more narrow ranges of tone rather than just bass and treble. However I admit "layer masks" are something whose use and meaning has still eluded me, despite several attempts to get a handle on them. Do have a few words in a nutshell about what they do?

I use a cable release instead of a timed release so I can time elements in the shot.

For example, I shoot a lot up along the shore of L. Superior. A cable release allows me to time me shot for the perfect wave - can't do that with a 10 second timer.

Another use is for combating wind in a scene. You can lock up your mirror and just wait till it stops (or slows down) for a second and then snap the shutter before it starts again.

So, timer release works good sometimes, but there are times a cable release can be your best friend.

The two shots below are good examples of when using a cable release to catch the perfect wave paid off:

Everyone's mileage is different on this one. I similarly split my subjects between wildlife and landscape. I use BBF and half press for birds and wildlife, depending on my mood. I use BBF exclusively for landscape - and I often do panos and sometimes hand-held. I do not use a remote shutter release. I carefully compose, focus, and shoot. If I am on a tripod because I am using a long shutter speed, as I often do with moving water and ND filters, same deal. The last thing I want is the half-press changing my focus point if I accidentally release pressure on the shutter button.

While BBF is often promoted for action - few people actually cover why. BBF is a way to avoid switching the camera from Single to Continuous focusing mode. With BBF, if you want to lock focus, press BBF-focus-release BBF-shoot. if you want to track, press and hold the BBF while tracking. Landscape requires the former, moving subjects require the latter. A subject that moves and sits still is best served by BBF because you don't have to switch camera modes - and that is why so many photographers use it.

Shutter delay and mirror lockup and other somewhat "heroic" measures are just to make up for an inadequate tripod and possibly poor technique.

I use none of those.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gene_lugo/

Ok, I may also be mixing apples and oranges. On my Nikon 2 sec, delay (self timer) does not lock up the mirror. But, I also have exposure delay mode that does lock up the mirror for 1, 2 or 3 sec. I believe using LV also puts the mirror up. I use live view or exposure delay mode in conjunction with a cable release while on a tripod. I write this to respond to Bloke who posted;
"When I use a cable release I manually focus using LV set 2 sec delay on the shutter and use the cable release"
Bloke said- Why use the 2 sec delay if you are using a cable release? You only need to do one or the other, not both....

I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practicing regularly. I agree that it works great for hand holding the camera/moving subjects. A problem is that "everyone" seems to say to set the camera for BBF and leave it there!

My dilemma is...I take a lot of landscape photos using a tripod and cable release. It seems counterproductive to use BBF and then snap the shutter with the cable release. Obviously I'm TOUCHING the camera to do this. (The cable release cannot be set to use BBF). Should I be going back and forth between BBF and half-press depending upon what I'm shooting. I've not seen this discussed. Please comment