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Back Button Focus vs. cable release
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Feb 6, 2016 10:40:41   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
big-guy wrote:
Not sure what your getting at here. You set the camera on a tripod, make your setting choices, use BBF to get focus, go sit down on the lawn chair, push the cable release and camera makes adjustment to exposure and takes the picture. Oh look, a bird is flying through the scene, everything is already set, including focus, so push the cable release and the camera sets exposure and takes the picture. Why do you want to refocus again on the same spot? The focus is already set. Now if your using manual mode then the camera does not even need to make any changes to exposure as you have already set that in stone so it merely takes the picture, which now does not waste time setting exposure or waste time finding focus, it just takes the picture reducing your already fast lag time. When shooting landscapes you will almost always be at or near infinity (unless you happen to be in a tight space rock canyon) so why would you need to refocus? The BBF only deals with focus (sets it and locks it till you change it), not exposure.

Again, if your view point changes to a different scene (see above, tight space rock canyon)... well you need to touch the camera to do that anyway which also would include setting the new focus point, unless it remains at infinity. As a rule, if the camera don't move then the focus don't move. (rules are made to be broken on occasion)

What am I missing in your scenario?
Not sure what your getting at here. You set the ca... (show quote)


I've wondered about this exact same issue. When I do portraits, I put the camera on a tripod & use aperture priority. After I set everything up, I focus with BBF and take the picture with the cable release button. That way I can interact with the subject and get the best shot. It seems as though when pushing the remote button, the camera re-focuses before taking the picture. Am I mistaken in this? FYI...it has not been a problem...I was just wondering.

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Feb 6, 2016 10:43:39   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
OHenry wrote:
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practicing regularly. I agree that it works great for hand holding the camera/moving subjects. A problem is that "everyone" seems to say to set the camera for BBF and leave it there!

My dilemma is...I take a lot of landscape photos using a tripod and cable release. It seems counterproductive to use BBF and then snap the shutter with the cable release. Obviously I'm TOUCHING the camera to do this. (The cable release cannot be set to use BBF). Should I be going back and forth between BBF and half-press depending upon what I'm shooting. I've not seen this discussed. Please comment
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practi... (show quote)


Camera?

Also with landscape you could easily use a shutter delay.

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Feb 6, 2016 10:47:28   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
windshoppe wrote:
I've dealt with this same issue, as I have been using BBF exclusively (when hand held) for a couple of years. I've found no problem at all with use of the cable release when I choose to do so. I've set a custom setting on my Canon 5DII that simply returns the camera to shutter release focusing when I'm using the cable release. No confusion, as I only use BBF when hand held and it's not an issue when on a tripod using cable release.


Can I ask how you did that? Just learning my new 5DII... If this is something everyone else knows, then you could PM me. Thanks...

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Feb 6, 2016 10:51:38   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
mborn wrote:
When I use a cable release I manually focus using LV set 2 sec delay on the shutter and use the cable release


Why use the 2 sec delay if you are using a cable release? You only need to do one or the other, not both...

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Feb 6, 2016 11:00:27   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
OHenry wrote:
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practicing regularly. I agree that it works great for hand holding the camera/moving subjects. A problem is that "everyone" seems to say to set the camera for BBF and leave it there!

My dilemma is...I take a lot of landscape photos using a tripod and cable release. It seems counterproductive to use BBF and then snap the shutter with the cable release. Obviously I'm TOUCHING the camera to do this. (The cable release cannot be set to use BBF). Should I be going back and forth between BBF and half-press depending upon what I'm shooting. I've not seen this discussed. Please comment
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practi... (show quote)


Everyone's mileage is different on this one. I similarly split my subjects between wildlife and landscape. I use BBF and half press for birds and wildlife, depending on my mood. I use BBF exclusively for landscape - and I often do panos and sometimes hand-held. I do not use a remote shutter release. I carefully compose, focus, and shoot. If I am on a tripod because I am using a long shutter speed, as I often do with moving water and ND filters, same deal. The last thing I want is the half-press changing my focus point if I accidentally release pressure on the shutter button.

While BBF is often promoted for action - few people actually cover why. BBF is a way to avoid switching the camera from Single to Continuous focusing mode. With BBF, if you want to lock focus, press BBF-focus-release BBF-shoot. if you want to track, press and hold the BBF while tracking. Landscape requires the former, moving subjects require the latter. A subject that moves and sits still is best served by BBF because you don't have to switch camera modes - and that is why so many photographers use it.

Shutter delay and mirror lockup and other somewhat "heroic" measures are just to make up for an inadequate tripod and possibly poor technique.

I use none of those.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gene_lugo/

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Feb 6, 2016 11:13:24   #
pelha Loc: middlle of nowhere NY
 
MtnMan wrote:


Then look at the lens. You will see a little plastic window with numbers and the infinity sign near the focus ring. Align the middle of the infinity sign (8 on it's side) with the marker by turning the focus ring.



unfortunately, some nikon lenses don't have the little window. which is driving me batty on occasion. at some point i will need to replace my lens (18-140mm) with something with distance markings, but i cringe at the prices of the better lenses.

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Feb 6, 2016 11:15:56   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
MtnMan wrote:
But for landscape I've mostly gone to Bryan Peterson's suggestion to not focus at all. I turn autofocus off and set the lens on infinity.


I'm sure Peterson (and most everyone else!) knows better than I, but for landscapes I set my lens at the hyperfocal distance, very seldom at infinity.

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Feb 6, 2016 11:44:39   #
Bozsik Loc: Orangevale, California
 
rbfanman wrote:
Who needs a cable release? Get a remote release (electronic), or set the timer for 10 seconds, and hit the shutter release. The ten seconds between hitting the shutter, and the shot, will let the vibrations caused by touching the shutter release die down. BBF, and leave that be. Turn AF off if need be.


Sometimes you have to have the cable instead of timer. But most of the time timer works.

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Feb 6, 2016 11:54:51   #
wingclui44 Loc: CT USA
 
OHenry wrote:
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practicing regularly. I agree that it works great for hand holding the camera/moving subjects. A problem is that "everyone" seems to say to set the camera for BBF and leave it there!

My dilemma is...I take a lot of landscape photos using a tripod and cable release. It seems counterproductive to use BBF and then snap the shutter with the cable release. Obviously I'm TOUCHING the camera to do this. (The cable release cannot be set to use BBF). Should I be going back and forth between BBF and half-press depending upon what I'm shooting. I've not seen this discussed. Please comment
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practi... (show quote)


I don't know why it's a problem to you? You said shooting landscape on tripod, this is good to use BB for focus, why? because you can focus where you want and lock it (If not at the middle of the frame) then you turn the camera to re-composite, when you press the cable release to shoot the focus won't change.

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Feb 6, 2016 12:01:36   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
OHenry wrote:
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practicing regularly. I agree that it works great for hand holding the camera/moving subjects. A problem is that "everyone" seems to say to set the camera for BBF and leave it there!

My dilemma is...I take a lot of landscape photos using a tripod and cable release. It seems counterproductive to use BBF and then snap the shutter with the cable release. Obviously I'm TOUCHING the camera to do this. (The cable release cannot be set to use BBF). Should I be going back and forth between BBF and half-press depending upon what I'm shooting. I've not seen this discussed. Please comment
I've seen the light about BBF and I've been practi... (show quote)


If you want to temporarily disable BBF while using the cable release...

Does your camera have user-assignable buttons or a user-programmable custom mode that you might set up to be able to quickly switch back and forth? Even if not (or you are using them all for other things), does your camera have a quick access menu folder where the user can include a few high level features they use frequently and you could copy the BBF setup/disable feature?

The cameras (Canon 7D, 7DII and 5DII) I'm using have all these, any of which could be set up to allow quick and easy switch out of BBF, for those times I want to use a cable release. However, I'm not sure I'd do that anyway, since I don't really see a problem using BBF.

It's possible to use the camera's self-timer instead of a cable release. The same thing is accomplished with a short delay, to let any movement to the camera from your pressing the shutter release settle.

However, when shooting a scenic shot, I'd usually be pre-focusing using an estimated hyperfocal distance technique anyway... and the last thing I'd want would be the camera re-focusing after I composed. So, for me BBF would work just fine for scenic shots, too... better than not using BBF, in fact.

I would switch to One Shot (that's what Canon calls it... not sure about other manufacturers)... instead of AI Servo (Canon's term for continuous focus, which I usually use for action shooting and by default, thanks to BBF). But BBF works just fine with both One Shot and AI Servo.

More rarely I might even use the focal distance scale and Depth of Field scale on my camera, for a more precise hyperfocal technique with manual focus (which BBF also facilitates). Of course, not all lenses have distance and DoF scales... especially not zooms.

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Feb 6, 2016 12:10:09   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
pelha wrote:
unfortunately, some nikon lenses don't have the little window. which is driving me batty on occasion. at some point i will need to replace my lens (18-140mm) with something with distance markings, but i cringe at the prices of the better lenses.


Even zooms that do include a distance scale, usually don't provide the Depth of Field scale needed to most quickly and easily do hyperfocal distance focusing. There would need to be a different DoF scale shown on the zoom for each focal length, which is impossible of course.

But if you have a separate chart, and the lens' distance scale is at least reasonably accurate, it's still possible. (I understand there are even some DoF/hyperfocal calculator apps available for smart phones... tho I'm still using a dumb phone personally.)

You're most likely to find the combo of a good focus distance scale with DoF indications on a prime lens. Even then, it's most useful on normal to wide angle focal length lenses... on telephotos they're of little of no use.

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Feb 6, 2016 12:23:21   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
I use my cell phone (LG V10) or my iPad to trigger my D7200 remotely. Works well!

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Feb 6, 2016 12:28:27   #
windshoppe Loc: Arizona
 
For many landscape applications setting the hyperfocal distance is simply a matter of knowing the distance to be set for a couple of focal lengths and apertures that you use most and setting that distance on the distance scale of the lens. For others any of the phone apps are very handy. Charts are also available online that can be printed and provide the same info as the phone apps.

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Feb 6, 2016 12:39:48   #
pelha Loc: middlle of nowhere NY
 
Sinewsworn wrote:
I use my cell phone (LG V10) or my iPad to trigger my D7200 remotely. Works well!


wonder if the d7100 has that ability... ok, another research topic. unless someone here can answer definitely.

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Feb 6, 2016 13:22:48   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
Make sure to set the shot up,first, though. Focus especially.

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