SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

There is a joke in my family. Never visit one of my sisters! She has been through three big ones.
Her first was the Mexico City one about 20+ years ago. Then she was in the big LA one. Finished it off with Loma Prieta while she lived in Santa Cruz!
She's been fairly shake free since LP, but I still wouldn't trust her!!! :lol:
SS

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Ha! My wife was in Boston for Loma Prieta and I was still in the UK. My mother in-law rode that one out, her house was built in 1905, just before the big one, and even at 88 she still knows how to to make the Earth move! :lol: :lol:

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Are you sure it was an earthquake, not just 'a good experience' on the beach? Isn't there a cocktail named after that?

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Peter, I had a friend that lived on Loma Prieta Road. She was of course just getting off of work but her house was leveled and her two dogs perished in the destruction.
Of course, here we have little ones all the time. As everyone here knows centered about 10 miles away, as the crow flies, we had Napa.
I've only been in one that got a little scary. I was in Peru in 07 when the Pisco quake hit. It started to shake and got stronger and stronger for about 20 seconds or so. I started to worry about the building we were in, a restaurant, we had just sat down for dinner! fortunately dinner had not come yet, or it would likely have been on the floor along with those of a few other diners that had already been served!! ;-)
SS

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

You're the only one. :)

Actually I was messing around with this just yesterday. I was out shooting harrier hawks. I adjusted all the AF parameters on my D800 - Tracking with AF-Lock On, Back Button Focusing, dynamic area focusing from 9-21-51 points, Auto Area focusing, Dynamic 3D focusing, 11 point or 51 point active focus sensors, etc. Each one provided different results, and while one particular combinations of settings did great when the bird was against the sky (plain background) I needed to change some of those settings when the bird was against a busy background. etc.

I generally use spot meter, and measure the brightest highlight and add 1.3 - 1.7 stops to the exposure reading to get as much light as possible to the sensor without blowing out the highlights. I get good results although I am constantly adjusting to accommodate changing light.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Clever :)

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Keep her out of Jersey....

Blasthoff Loc: Life halved NY and IN

I have the same background. When I bought a dslr, it was with the intention of using many of my MF lenses, so I installed a split image screen. That said, I do have and use one autofocus lens and I kept things as simple and familiar as possible. I also use the center spot for focusing in combination with BBF. That way I can focus the camera exactly where I want it to and hold it, which suites most of my photography. After many years of gaining a "feel" for Nikon center weighted meters, I use center weighted metering. I might make an exception when using flash and or for fill, but I'm still getting that down pat. I can see using spot metering as I gain time to get into more precise and deliberate zone placing and extending DR with HDR, which is a whole new avenue that digital gives us. I will need to do some tests as spot metering is the one (only) metering mode that might be affected with the use of a split image screen.

I'm a firm believer in "KISS" and no better way to exercise that then to work with the familiar. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". It worked well with film cameras and there's no reason to change just because there are other unfamiliar and unneeded options.

Tracy B. Loc: Indiana

I believe a lot of people think their fast glass isn't sharp because they are focusing and recomposing. I've read, and also experienced, that with glass that is f2.8 and larger any movement (recomposing) can make your intended focus point on the picture not as sharp. I use different focus points so I don't have to move my camera and avoid having to crop to get the composition I wanted.

Blasthoff Loc: Life halved NY and IN

That is true, so one needs to check carefully. That said, often you need to select where your want your "depth of focus" to be placed very carefully which was never a problem with MF lenses but can get "tricky" with autofocus.

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

That is what l do, but with a Nikon D7200. (Previously with a D7000, and D5000 before that).
Duane

heyjoe Loc: cincinnati ohio

i keep my focus point to one,center only,don't think i have ever changed it

Blasthoff Loc: Life halved NY and IN

Rereading your post, YES, I agree, selecting your focus points is the proper way to utilize autofocus in a tight situation, that's what all those focus points are for. As one being accustomed to manual focus it just seems like it is an added "workaround" step. Auto focus is wonderful, but there are situations where a manual focus lens would be easier to use.

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Grnway Loc: Manchester, NH

No Bob, you're not alone. I own the 5DIII with 61 focus points, but I still use primarily center spot focus and spot metering. Maybe it's the indoor events that I shoot, with uncooperative subjects, but I think it's just force of habit. (Quite frankly, I get a little dizzy watching all of those focus squares bouncing around in my viewfinder with the facial recognition, etc. going on when I use the more automated features.) I, too, got used to the split image focusing system on my film SLR. The only time I really move the focus points around are when I get to compose the picture, with cooperative subjects, or I know I'll have the time to do so. I'm pretty quick with it, but still, for me, the most intuitive way is to zoom in on my desired subject to ensure sharp focus, then recompose as needed.