Full moon, 2015-11-25
Jan 14, 2016 16:51:37 #
filzfotoz wrote:
There are no dumb questions - only dumb mistakes! ... (show quote)
If you're having trouble focusing in live view because the scene is to dark to show detail on your screen, you can use the exposure compensation dial pushed to the maximum.
This will greatly brighten the screen and aid in focusing. Then when you have the focus you want (use the magnification tool also), just simply lower the exposure compensation to where it belongs.
Jan 16, 2016 12:54:45 #
I haven't read all the posts but I find I get the sharpest shots at around f/8 or f/11. You will see a noticeable difference from f/4 or f/2.8. I then use Unsharp mask at 100, 1.3, and 0 to sharpen them up in post.
Jan 17, 2016 11:32:05 #
gvarner
Loc: Central Oregon Coast
Nobody mentioned atmospheric haze being a problem. I think it's a BIG problem in most regions.
Jan 18, 2016 13:30:48 #
gvarner wrote:
Nobody mentioned atmospheric haze being a problem. I think it's a BIG problem in most regions.
I upgraded to PSE 14 specifically to get the de-haze tool. Does a pretty good job!
Jan 18, 2016 15:01:21 #
gvarner wrote:
Nobody mentioned atmospheric haze being a problem. I think it's a BIG problem in most regions.
As Peeb mentioned the deHaze tool it works wonders on atmospheric haze.
It is also in Lightroom now.
Craig
Feb 6, 2016 01:18:17 #
Lot of good advice here, but thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. I enjoy shooting the moon and have settled on 200 ISO, f11, and a very fast shutter speed no less than 1000. Remembering that the moon is a very bright subject in a very dark sky, I have found that the secret is in the shutter speed. FAST!
Feb 6, 2016 08:47:11 #
A less-than-full moon also can make a better subject. The lighting makes the craters stand out much better.
Feb 6, 2016 08:47:15 #
Feb 6, 2016 08:47:18 #
A less-than-full moon also can make a better subject. The lighting makes the craters stand out much better.
Feb 7, 2016 13:45:19 #
Did you have the VR on the lens turned off? When using a tripod I believe you have to have that feature turned off?
Feb 10, 2016 00:48:33 #
coj
Loc: NJ, USA
This is my formula for shooting a brightly lit moon. Use a sturdy tripod. In place of a tripod you can use a sturdy pillow resting on a car roof, but the results are not consistent. NO VR. Set camera to manual. Set lens to manual focus. DO NOT USE AUTO FOCUS. It will hunt, set for a half second, and keep hunting. Set focus ring to infinity. You can use the live view to fine tune this, your call, but you have to magnify the image on the lcd screen to do it. Set shutter speed to 1/400. Set f stop to f/5.6. Set ISO to 100. I used a Nikon D3300 (a beginners camera) with a Nikon 18 - 300mm ED G VR II lens that all the experts said was junk and not worth the money, too soft. I shot this at 300mm, full extension, the "worst" spot for a zoom lens. That's it. Here is one of many moon shots I took using those settings.
Full moon, f/5.6, ISO 100, shutter 1/400, no vr lens set to manual, focus ring on infinity, heavily cropped.
Feb 10, 2016 09:30:19 #
Feb 10, 2016 13:52:21 #
Feb 10, 2016 20:12:39 #
Ya know what's really interesting is the different angles (or profiles)of the moon obtained from different parts of the world.
Feb 10, 2016 21:10:56 #
coj
Loc: NJ, USA
You're right. If my tripod wasn't so heavy and cost money to put on a plane I would take it with me for just that reason. I looked at your moon settings, you use twice as much as my iso, but half the f stop, one cancelling the other out. The only difference is the shutter speed. That is probably the least important. The main concept being that you treat a moon shot like broad daylight.
tinwhistle wrote:
Ya know what's really interesting is the different angles (or profiles)of the moon obtained from different parts of the world.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.