JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

I know that questions on these filters have come up often and my questions may have been answered already, but in searching the UHH I haven't found the answers I need.

I had a Vivitar polarizing filter back in the "old film days" on a for a Canon AE-1 camera, but that's the limit of my experience with one.

I now shoot a Canon 60D with the EF-S 18-135 mm f/3.5 - 5.6 IS kit lens and a Tamron EF 70-300 mm f/4.0 - 5.6 DI VC zoom lens. Much of my photography is 'on the water' and I believe a polarizing filter would help, and per some past postings it seems as if one filter and adapter rings are the way to go. Yea or Na?

I keep a skylight filter on the kit lens for protection purposes; can that stay on the lens or do I remove it every time I put on the polarizer?

The Canon lens is 67mm and the Tamron 62mm. It seems that getting the larger 67 mm filter and stepping down to the 62 mm is the way to go. Is this a proper analysis?

The 62mm lens hood is quite deep, and seems too deep to reach the filter for adjustment with the hood on. Do I take it off to adjust and then reattach it? That seems to be quite a delay when shooting fast changing scenes (and relative sun positions) as at sailboat race. The old Vivitar lens had a permanently attached sliding hood so the delay was minimal.

I don't think I should need, and probably can't afford, a top of the line system so I'm thinking Hoya for the lens, comments or recommendations? Does Hoya also make the rings, if not, what brand should I look for?

Perhaps this should have been posted elsewhere, but I know not where; my apologies if it is posted incorrectly.

Thanks for the help!

Jim

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Your old filter was a "Linear" filter, not compatible with AF cameras. You need a "Circular" polarizer filter for use with todays cameras. The older Linear type were more effective. and can still be used in Manual Focus scenarios.
A step-up ring from your smallest lens size to your largest lens size is a good way to save some funds. The hood issue can easily be overcome by buying a collapsible rubber lens hood in the same size as the filter. It will screw into the filters threads and allows you to adjust the polarizing filter simply by rotating the rubber hood attached to it.

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

Polariser is the same. you buy a step up ring (not down as my last post). UV filter + CP may cause vignetting when wide open. I had that with 70 - 300 on my Sony but hadn't experienced it on my Canon. Try a few shots and see if the filter ring throws any marks in the corners of the taken image....you cannot see it in live-view only later on the computer.I don't us the hood on my lens when using the CP as you should be side on to the sun for the best effect. if a problem carry a hat or piece of board and shade that way.
Start by using what you can afford...if you buy from a shop you will probably get a 'trade in' if you later find you need a more expensive one. Equally try shooting through sun glasses - they come in different shades and colours. may add something to what you are doing.
Have fun

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

I have a few polarizing filters from the early 1970's (including one Vivitar-branded) which are indeed circular, not linear. And that the linear type is more effective is just not true.

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

There was no such thing as a "Circular" polarizer in the 1970's. These are all "Linear" polarizers. Their physical shape has absolutely nothing at all to do with their function.
Your comment shows you obviously have no understanding of the differences nor the functions of these filters. Please do your research, it can save you from future embarrassment.
Circular polarization was developed to allow compatibility with Autofocus sensors when they were developed and it was quickly discovered that Linear polarization was not compatible with these sensors. Linear polarization is also not compatible with SOME metering systems.

Grnway Loc: Manchester, NH

To the OP:

A CP is definitely useful for shots on the water, depending on your shooting angle relative to the sun. I'd remove the UV filter. There's a useful, quick-change system called Xume:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/969984-REG/xume_67mm_lens_adapter_starter_kit.html

that will be helpful. I'm not sure if you could combine this with step-up rings.

As for a lens hood, I've found that it's not so necessary when using the CP, since the function of the CP is to reduce glare, anyway. I guess if you're shooting straight toward the sun, a hood would be good, but the CP might not be all that effective, anyway.

As for the step-up rings, here's an option:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/809636-REG/Sensei_sur6267_62_67mm_Step_Up_Ring.html

Hope this helps

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Yes, step-up rings are great - save a lot of money.

It can be a nuisance trying to rotate a filter with a hood in place, but I can usually reach in with one finger and turn it. I've heard of hoods that have a little door on the side for turning the filter.

joseph premanandan

you can use either Hoya filter or Lee filters(i mean polarized filters).it is better to get a good real! polarized filters even though they be little prizy because in the long run,it will worth the price.i prefer circular filters and most of them do not need an adopter ring and depending on your lens circumference,you can get the appropriate ones,joseph

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

FYI:

I don't recommend leaving the CPL or an older Pl filter on the lens full time mainly because when you don't really need it, it needs to be re-adjusted so often.

jcboy3

I prefer to have a CPL for each filter size. Step-up rings are just one more thing to worry about losing, and one more thing to mess with if you need to change lenses.

You can get a screw on collapsible lens hood for your Tamron in a filter size that matches the CPL; put on the CPL first and then the lens hood. That way, you can rotate the CPL just by rotating the lens hood. That will work with either size, but then you need to swap out the CPL between step-up ring and lens hood if you go the single size route.

I use Xume magnetic adapters for quick change of filters. I can quickly swap in/out a CPL, graduated ND, or regular ND as needed. Since it's easy to use the filters that way, I find I use them more often. If you do want them, be sure to check your 18-135 for vignetting by stacking a regular depth filter with your CPL. I usually see vignetting on ultra wide zooms, but then I don't use CPLs on ultra wide focal lengths because the variation in effect over the frame is a problem.

CPLs cut haze, reflections, darken sky.
GNDs darken sky, especially useful if your foreground is shaded and you don't want to blow out the sky to get proper exposure.
NDs reduce overall exposure, good if you want to use wide apertures for shallow DOF or if you want to control shutter speed for flash fill. Really dark NDs are good for blurring water, popping them on/off easily with the XUME helps with focus and composition.

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

How can asking a question on this forum ever be embarrassing? Isn't one of the points of this forum is to do research, ask questions and get answers? While you gave very good information, your method of criticism for asking the question is simply wrong in my opinion.

Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio

OK, to answer your questions:

1. You want a CPL for sure, no old filters. A linear filter will mess with BOTH AF and metering. Besides, I'd bet the newer filters are far better quality :thumbup:

2. I'd say try to avoid stepping rings. The don't allow you to use your hood, and when photographing stuff around water, it's nice to have the hood to help keep stray water droplets off (not 100% effective, but better than nothing). Check out KEH for used polarizer filters, you can probably get both sizes you need for less than what you would pay for the large one new. Just stick with good brands like B+W, Hoya, Nikon (I use Nikon myself and have been VERY happy with them).

3. As for adjusting with the hood on, sometimes you an reach in and turn, but I usually just take my hood off, adjust, and then put it back on.

4. Forget using a polarizer and UV filter together - there's no advantage to it, it can cause vignetting, and it may degrade image quality.

Finally, for more on polarizers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMOsBG2JaZY

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

Whether you opt for two polarizer sizes or one size plus step-up ring, you end up with two things in the kit bag. Then you have two remember when switching lenses. Only you know what works for yourself.

Bike guy Loc: Atlanta

Have to agree with you papakatz. Exactly my reaction when I read that post. There are ways to correct misinformation, and that in my opinion is not the best way. There have been a couple, really only one time, I can recall when someone on this board attempted to show their superiority of knowledge. I spent a very long, and rewarding (from the satisfaction part) as a college professor, and there was no such thing as a dumb or bad question.
In any event since retiring, I really don't care what people think or say to me anymore. I know what I excel in and photography is not of those disciplines. Hence my being part of this forum to learn and ask from the experts.

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

Thank you. What's the point of having a discussion forum when you are told you should have done all your research on other sites. I don't get it