DirtFarmer wrote:
I looked at the EXIF data on your green tinted photo and it listed the white balance as "manual". That really doesn't tell me anything about how you set the white balance in your camera other than you didn't use a standard preset or auto white balance.
My photos are frequently taken in fast paced situations, so I don't do any manual WB settings, instead I use auto WB pretty much all the time. Since I always shoot raw, I can always tweak the WB in post. If you shoot landscapes or other static scenes you do have the option of fiddling with the camera settings to get what you want, but I prefer to do the fiddling at my desk when I (usually) have time to deal with adjustments.
I get the impression that your post followed another post on this subject that I missed, so I may have missed the point of the post.
I looked at the EXIF data on your green tinted pho... (
show quote)
In using the the method I used in this image, WB setting is rather insignificant, avoiding the fluorescent, flash, etc. Although the camera was set to Manual, no other WB adjustments were made. They were left at the mfg. default setting, 0,0,0. Additionally, since this was a RAW file, I can always override or apply the settings in ACR.
What is more important is the additional G2 pixels, and more so, the exposure being pushed to the limits of the camera, as opposed to the indications presented by the in camera jpg and histogram.
I hope this adequately addressed your concerns.
--Bob
DirtFarmer wrote:
Thank you.
You're welcome.
Stay tuned for another article on WB. I'm working on it at the present, but don't know when I'll be posting it.
--Bob
DirtFarmer wrote:
I looked at the EXIF data on your green tinted photo and it listed the white balance as "manual". That really doesn't tell me anything about how you set the white balance in your camera other than you didn't use a standard preset or auto white balance.
My photos are frequently taken in fast paced situations, so I don't do any manual WB settings, instead I use auto WB pretty much all the time. Since I always shoot raw, I can always tweak the WB in post. If you shoot landscapes or other static scenes you do have the option of fiddling with the camera settings to get what you want, but I prefer to do the fiddling at my desk when I (usually) have time to deal with adjustments.
I get the impression that your post followed another post on this subject that I missed, so I may have missed the point of the post.
I looked at the EXIF data on your green tinted pho... (
show quote)
For the most part, I don't pay much attention to the WB setting in my camera. Like yourself, I do that in post. It's usually set to manual or auto, most likely auto. Using the preset for unitary white balance sets the WB to manual. I hope this answers your question.
--Bob
And since October 17 all my captures are green!!!
I am growing bulging eyes, antennas and am scouring the surface of my planet for invading scantily clad earthlings of the female kind. Not sure what I will do with them but since I am turning BEM I am not asking to many questions I respond only to bouncy stimulus.
Excellent presentation for a complex subject. I would do it if I only had my D700, but the DR for my D810 is much greater, so I will just go with that. Thanks though.
nikonbug wrote:
Excellent presentation for a complex subject. I would do it if I only had my D700, but the DR for my D810 is much greater, so I will just go with that. Thanks though.
Thanks, nikonbug. Eventhough your D810 has greater dynamic range, you can still use ETTR / ETBR techniques for exposure. This will maximize use of the DR you have.
--Bob
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