Haoa808 Loc: Hawaii

Hi Marty,
I think I saw your post asking about the 50mm lens. I have a d7000 and had buyers remorse with focus issues. I didn't have the latest firmware update from Nikon. When I updated the firmware, I began to take good pictures. Just a thought, check your firmware. Enjoy the grandbaby!
HOWARD

dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl

The 1.4 has a very narrow depth of field at f/1.4 at 10 feet your dof is about 5.5 inches. At f/5.6 it increases to 2.27 ft.
Now, that same 50mm 1.4 lens will have a Dof of 61.9 ft at 100 feet. I use my 50 mm for low light, and night time lighting of street scenes when I want a little faster shutter speed or lower ISO. By the way, at 1000 feet the Dof is everything from 260 feet out will be in focus. I do use my 50mm 1.4 for portraits but I keep my f/stop up and keep my dof in mind as I go.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
The above is a free Depth of Field calculater that works very well. I also have downloaded the cell app so that I have it in the field.

streetmarty Loc: Brockton, Ma

Thank you Howard. I did check the firmware. I think it is just me expecting to much from the lens at the given distance.

RichieC Loc: Adirondacks

Creative DOF is not really best in your example photo. It is however, when properly employed, a spectacular & professional effect. It will take some work on your part to master it. You could buy Itzhak Perlman's Stradivarius, but it will not sound like he's playing it. Sounds like you thought all that was necessary was to buy the lens. Never that easy.

A faster lens is a better lens, all around. But not necessarily at the extremes, what it does if widen the sweet spot closer to the larger apertures. Gives one or two stops of "useable settings over a slower camera. OR finer ISO, etc.etc. and the build is better because the ingrediens are expensive..no manufacturer will drop them into a cheap mechanism..

To get the sweet brokeh effect, isn't as easy when your subject lies in anything but parallel to your cameras focal plane without using smaller apertures to widen it. . There are tricks to improve it, but you'll have to figure it out.

In a nutshell and a hint of what to improve your mastery of this fine instrument, is that your issue is not with the lens, but neither will it hold you back!

How do you get to Carnegie hall?

(We are all learning- no matter how professional)

John Howard Loc: SW Florida and Blue Ridge Mountains of NC.

You can get a DoF calculator for your smart phone. Put in camera, lens and aperture and get the hyper focal point. This can be used also to calculate the DoF at different focus distances if you know your distance. I use it with long lens settings shooting birds at a feeder as it allows me to pre-focus.

Shutter Bugger

Hmmmm,

I know the horse has bolted, but a longer lens... 85 to around 105mm is better for portraits.

Having said that the portrait below was shot with a Nikkor
50mm f1.4D

It was at f8 though. As has been said before, when you shoot an f1.4 lens wide open your depth of field is very shallow.

(Download)

streetmarty Loc: Brockton, Ma

"It will take some work on your part to master it. You could buy Itzhak Perlman's Stradivarius, but it will not sound like he's playing it. Sounds like you thought all that was necessary was to buy the lens. Never that easy."

Well it should be! I have been playing the guitar for over 50 years, when I buy a new one I don't have to learn to play all over again. I've been a photographer since 1967, I had a darkroom in my cellar, many cameras and a lot of different glass. In all those years this is the first lens to aggravate me. But thank you for telling me the issue is not with the lens that makes me feel so much better.

streetmarty Loc: Brockton, Ma

Thank you! That picture is awesome! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Kuzano

You ARE shooting full frame... right.

If so, 50mm is not an ideal portrait lens. The standard for many years, film and digital, is that on a 24 x 36 frame, the ideal lens for portrait is a short/medium telephoto.

Portraits have been shot for years on 35mm with 80-100mm prime lens. How you ended up with a 50mm is very surprising. Too "in your face" for portrait and distortion in facial features is a factor.

Aside from aperture, or light entering, capability, proper lighting is normally preferable to light control with the aperture. The aperture can control depth of field for soft background, but for facial features, your lens should be about 85mm.

Do the young subject justice and go a bit longer on the lens.

Surprised, if you did your homework that you ended up with a 50mm for portrait work??

Your 50mm would be more portrait appropriate on a DX sensor where it would approximate a 75mm AOV.

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

Another trick when you want to use a shallow DOF is to double your distance from the subject which increases you DOF big time. Then when doing you PP you crop in giving away 50% of your resolution. People often forget unless your planning on printing a 24X30 picture you don't need 20MB or more, giving up half still allows you to print nice stuff and of course for the internet is doesn't matter.

Picture taken at 3.5 feet at f/11 on a 85mm 1.8 which is considered a portrait lens. F/11 is still in the sweet spot on this lens, nice and sharp. Then I cropped the snot out of it in PP .............. you get the idea.

BTW, the flowers in the background were 6 - 8 inches away, you've got to love the 85mm 1.8, not a macro but it pulled off the task just fine because it's just so darn sharp in it's sweet spot.

(Download)

streetmarty Loc: Brockton, Ma

Yes I am with a D610. Yes I know that the 50 is not a good portrait lens. I am not a portrait photographer, never have been, until April 22, 2015. I will get the 85 but in the meantime Im making do with the 50. Thanks for the help, appreciate it. :thumbup:

jr168

With a 50mm on full frame at f/1.4 from two feet away, your depth of field is less than 1/2 of an inch. I would think you would have to shoot that on a macro rail on a tripod to get the shot. As you move farther away, your DOF will increase. You really want to make sure you are in continuos single point focus and not on any of the auto or dynamic focus modes to ensure you have control on where you are focusing. It is definitely has a learning curve, but it is a great lens once you understand it. Don't give up yet.

Shutter Bugger

Cheers.

That eclectus parrot is a very handsome and photogenic chap
who was happy posing for my camera.

The lens is a good unit too. Once you get used to it you will
love it.

I shot the image below to demonstrate depth of field. (of that lens at f1.4)

Twelve inch rule.

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

Inside dark buildings; churches, museums, restaurants, etc.
Hope this helps.
Duane

Shutter Bugger

Your D fly is better than reality :thumbup: