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Need help with wide angle lens for indoor photography
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Apr 17, 2015 19:22:34   #
DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX
 
DXO's View2 does a good job and I especially like the filter in PSCC used for distortion correction. The best distortion correction, in my opinion, is shooting panos vertically and adjusting from there. The best reason to provide high quality images in architectural real estate photography is for the listing agent to show his/her client that they have enlisted a top quality agent to represent them. High quality images also show prospects that they are dealing with a high quality agent or firm. Very few homes sell over the internet but many potential buyers and , yes, sellers peruse the internet on Realtor.com to get accurate information. Realtor.com is usually linked directly to local MLS data bases and are updated when the listing is updated by the listing agent. The other real estate links are way behind and often outdated.
SSam wrote:
Saproo, David Pine mentioned "distortion". I agree. Take your camera to a store or to a friend's that has the len(s) that you are considering. Take photos of the straight (vertical) wall/windows to the outside edge of your photo. While I 'think' that you can get rid of distortion in Post Processing, it is time consuming.

So, check distortion before you purchase. You'll be happy that you did.

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Apr 19, 2015 14:19:41   #
romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI
 
saparoo wrote:
Thanks Jerry. I've looked at that one also, along with the Tamron 10-24. Just can't decide which would be best at lowlight.


It shouldn't matter- you'd be foolish not to set your shots up carefully using a good tripod, with supplemental slave flashes as needed to even out dark areas- unless you want to look like all the cheap photogs with point and shoot cameras rushing thru taking snaps.

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Apr 19, 2015 14:19:42   #
romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI
 
saparoo wrote:
Thanks Jerry. I've looked at that one also, along with the Tamron 10-24. Just can't decide which would be best at lowlight.


It shouldn't matter- you'd be foolish not to set your shots up carefully using a good tripod, with supplemental slave flashes as needed to even out dark areas- unless you want to look like all the cheap photogs with point and shoot cameras rushing thru taking snaps.

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Apr 19, 2015 15:10:03   #
tomeveritt Loc: Fla. + Ga,NY,Va,Md,SC
 
an alternative, tripod, brackets, fusion, will eliminate dark spots, smooth exposures, evenly lighted. Just a thought.

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Apr 20, 2015 10:20:40   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
erickter wrote:
Canon EFS to EF adapter made by Canon for $15.00? That would be a good price. Canon (& Nikon) adapter prices are typically overpriced. Was that used or new?

I don't need it for Nikon. I was interested in the event I bought a used FF Canon later. I use both N & C systems.


No, it is not actually an adapter. It is a baffle, or mount that you order from Canon. You pop off the old one and pop on the new one....that's it! Here is a link to a video that tells you just how to do it and what the name of the part is. I even contacted Ben by email with some questions and he answered.

http://www.benjacobsenphoto.com/2010/gear/canon-10-22mm-ef-s-to-ef-conversion-2/

This works like a charm, but you will get heavy vignetting at 10 to 14 or 15 mm, but you don't need to go that wide anyway.

Wendy

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Apr 20, 2015 10:23:10   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
I find that the sellers care about the windows. They want perfect shots because that is what they are attracted to when they view homes on line. I give them a window view and an interior view in almost all my shots.


burkphoto wrote:
Nicely done, Peterff, on both counts.

I don't find the first one objectionable in the least. The vast majority of such scenes probably could be underexposed by 1/2 stop to 2/3 stop. Then you could use Photoshop's Shadow/Highlight tool to equalize the values a bit. Once it hits Zillow, it's going to be a tiny, highly squashed JPEG anyway.

If your camera has a highlight compensation tool, and/or dynamic lighting control tool, play with those menu settings a bit. Some of them are surprisingly useful for holding detail.

Only a photographer will care about retaining detail in the windows. Most people know they are windows, are used to their cell phone photos being burned out there, and won't give it a second thought. It's really the shadows that have to be open.

I would strongly encourage anyone doing real estate photography to go to Zillow, Trulia, and the other real estate catalogs you can find online. Note what is there, and what is used to sell very expensive properties and average properties.

Think about the:

Aspect Ratio (usually 4:3)
Use of HDR or Shadow/Highlight tools and other post-processing
Image size in pixels and file size in KB
Subject Matter
Camera Placement
Room Layout (clutter/lack thereof)
Distortion (or lack thereof)
Use of flash, available light, or a blend
Depth of Field vs Depth of Light
White Balance Consistency (or lack thereof)
General smoothness of the entire image
Use of actual video vs. a "scan and pan" of stills

Since most of this work is done with 10-20mm (or similar range) UWA lenses on APS-C cameras, it might be shockingly interesting to download a DOF calculator and play around with the variables in it to see what sorts of depth of field you have at 10, 14, and 20 mm, at 5, 7, and 15 feet... at various wide apertures (f/2.8 and f/4).
Nicely done, Peterff, on both counts. br br I do... (show quote)

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Apr 20, 2015 11:04:27   #
Gifted One Loc: S. E. Idaho
 
I believe that this can also be accomplished with an extension tube, but check with Canon technical support.

J. R.


Wendy2 wrote:
No, it is not actually an adapter. It is a baffle, or mount that you order from Canon. You pop off the old one and pop on the new one....that's it! Here is a link to a video that tells you just how to do it and what the name of the part is. I even contacted Ben by email with some questions and he answered.

http://www.benjacobsenphoto.com/2010/gear/canon-10-22mm-ef-s-to-ef-conversion-2/

This works like a charm, but you will get heavy vignetting at 10 to 14 or 15 mm, but you don't need to go that wide anyway.

Wendy
No, it is not actually an adapter. It is a baffle... (show quote)

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