gemlenz Loc: Gilbert Arizona

:thumbup:

SSam Loc: Sierra Vista, AZ

Saproo, David Pine mentioned "distortion". I agree. Take your camera to a store or to a friend's that has the len(s) that you are considering. Take photos of the straight (vertical) wall/windows to the outside edge of your photo. While I 'think' that you can get rid of distortion in Post Processing, it is time consuming.

So, check distortion before you purchase. You'll be happy that you did.

marty wild Loc: England

So long you can drop shutter speed which it looks like you can. Use a tripod! Shoot at 1/10 sec adjust your white balance and you should get a good image if it still want a bit more light lift the ISO in small increments not bring any unwanted noise in

saparoo Loc: Atlanta, GA

Once again, thanks so much. Got way more info than I ever thought I would get. This is such an awesome group to be a member of....i have learned so much over the years!

Lionel1954 Loc: Brampton, Ontario, Canada.

Undoubtedly you have gotten a lot of lens choices, now I would like to point out the things to keep in mind when using a wide lens for room and building photos. KEEP IT LEVEL this will make for a great photo. Just a simple tip.

Gifted One Loc: S. E. Idaho

I think what you are also saying is keep it plumb.

erickter Loc: Dallas,TX

That's good to know. What brand is it? I have some Nikon F to Canon adapters for my many Nikkor lenses and love the results of Nikon glass on my Canon DSLR crop. Canon glass is great too.

Wendy2 Loc: California

Mine is a Canon. Not sure if you can or need to do it with Nikon because I don't think Nikon has the same limitation as Canon crop frame lenses.

James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)

I have used a Rokinon 14mm with good success.

You might give it a try Before You Buy it.....

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_7?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rokinon+14mm&sprefix=Rokinon%2Caps%2C273&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Arokinon+14mm

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

I've just remembered that I have a picture or two from a couple of years ago of a friend's house just before a gathering. It is a relatively small San Francisco house. Taken with a T3i and the EF-S10-22mm at 10mm 0.8s f/8.0 using a tripod. All natural lighting, which I think meets your indoor / low light description. This is straight out of the camera, I know the windows are blown out etc., but my wife just walked past, saw it and said "Oh! You caught the atmosphere nicely."

So this is nowhere like the earlier examples which are very impressive indeed, but may give you a realistic idea of what the lens would do on your camera.

The second, I realized I had used auto exposure bracketing as I was just beginning to experiment with HDR concepts, so once again a very early attempt, but I have just taken the three exposures and combined them using the DPP HDR tool. So, once again, I'm sure many people could do much, much better but it does show what some very basic quick shots can accomplish with minimal work and even less skill!

Hope it helps.

Natural Light T3i 10-22mm 0.8s f/8.0 - tripod

(Download)

Another, using DPP HDR to combine 3 autoexposure bracketed images

(Download)

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Samyang 14mm f2.8, manual focus , about $300 most places- also, the new Tokina 12-28mm f4 is quite good ! - about $550 most places - covers full frame from 18mm.

erickter Loc: Dallas,TX

Canon EFS to EF adapter made by Canon for $15.00? That would be a good price. Canon (& Nikon) adapter prices are typically overpriced. Was that used or new?

I don't need it for Nikon. I was interested in the event I bought a used FF Canon later. I use both N & C systems.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Nicely done, Peterff, on both counts.

I don't find the first one objectionable in the least. The vast majority of such scenes probably could be underexposed by 1/2 stop to 2/3 stop. Then you could use Photoshop's Shadow/Highlight tool to equalize the values a bit. Once it hits Zillow, it's going to be a tiny, highly squashed JPEG anyway.

If your camera has a highlight compensation tool, and/or dynamic lighting control tool, play with those menu settings a bit. Some of them are surprisingly useful for holding detail.

Only a photographer will care about retaining detail in the windows. Most people know they are windows, are used to their cell phone photos being burned out there, and won't give it a second thought. It's really the shadows that have to be open.

I would strongly encourage anyone doing real estate photography to go to Zillow, Trulia, and the other real estate catalogs you can find online. Note what is there, and what is used to sell very expensive properties and average properties.

Think about the:

Aspect Ratio (usually 4:3)
Use of HDR or Shadow/Highlight tools and other post-processing
Image size in pixels and file size in KB
Subject Matter
Camera Placement
Room Layout (clutter/lack thereof)
Distortion (or lack thereof)
Use of flash, available light, or a blend
Depth of Field vs Depth of Light
White Balance Consistency (or lack thereof)
General smoothness of the entire image
Use of actual video vs. a "scan and pan" of stills

Since most of this work is done with 10-20mm (or similar range) UWA lenses on APS-C cameras, it might be shockingly interesting to download a DOF calculator and play around with the variables in it to see what sorts of depth of field you have at 10, 14, and 20 mm, at 5, 7, and 15 feet... at various wide apertures (f/2.8 and f/4).

James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)

+++++++++++++++++++++

Yep!

Samyang = Same lens manufacture as a Rokinon - just a different name about the same price as well.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

In all honesty, if I were to do real estate and interiors today (I did them in the film era) and wanted to do a "good" job and save time and money ( MAYBE, actually make some money !) I would start with a Sony crop frame mirrorless with a shift adapter using the Samyang 14mm 2.8 lens or a good 17mm full frame lens. You do not need AF ! The Sony will do astounding in camera HDR and sweep pano, but you must be using JPEG - which suits me just fine (saving computer space and time) Yes, your exposures and lighting will need to be good !