My first attempt at a StarTrail, a bit of advice Please?
Feb 18, 2015 13:07:38 #
OK, so I blew my chance on the Desert last weekend.
So now home in the light polluted city, I'm punishing myself in the cold of the New Moon to figure it out.
So this is my first attempt, assembled with Startrails shareware.
I had to do this manually, 30 second exposures, ISO 100, aimed Southward. (Too much junk North of me.)
I learned a bit. And have an intervalometer coming so maybe my next attempt will improve. :roll:
So now home in the light polluted city, I'm punishing myself in the cold of the New Moon to figure it out.
So this is my first attempt, assembled with Startrails shareware.
I had to do this manually, 30 second exposures, ISO 100, aimed Southward. (Too much junk North of me.)
I learned a bit. And have an intervalometer coming so maybe my next attempt will improve. :roll:
Feb 18, 2015 13:18:59 #
Good start Sonny can wait to see more.
And welcome to the Astronomical Forum
And welcome to the Astronomical Forum
Feb 18, 2015 14:01:05 #
Okay Sonny, here goes.
1) Stable tripod. Hook some weights to it if it windy .. even if it's not that might be a good idea. You don't want it to move.
2) Clear night far away from ambient light
3)Use the fastest lens you have. A 16mm at F/2.8 will work, a 14mm F/1.4 would be even better.
4) Set your lens at it's widest aperture and put your camera in manual mode. ISO 800 up to 1600 depending on what your camera will handle.
5) Focus to infinity. If you have a cactus or something in the foreground, and you are at 16mm, F/2.8 you will need to be about 10 feet away from the object to get it in focus to infinity.
6) Plug in your intervalometer (Interval Meter) and set it to take 30 second exposures every 60 seconds for 60 to 75 minutes. You can go for hours, but this would be a good length of time for learning.
Why 30 second exposures? There is something called the rule of 500 that will explain why this works the best with star trails. I know you and lighthouse aren't buds, but he is a expert on this rule .. he actually calls it the rule of 600 ... I think .. he'll straigten me out if I'm wrong .. that's for sure. Perhaps someone else will come along and explain it before the Aussie side of the world wakes up.
You could actually go a little longer .. up to to 35 seconds, but you do want to think about minimizing noise. Hope this helps! :-)
1) Stable tripod. Hook some weights to it if it windy .. even if it's not that might be a good idea. You don't want it to move.
2) Clear night far away from ambient light
3)Use the fastest lens you have. A 16mm at F/2.8 will work, a 14mm F/1.4 would be even better.
4) Set your lens at it's widest aperture and put your camera in manual mode. ISO 800 up to 1600 depending on what your camera will handle.
5) Focus to infinity. If you have a cactus or something in the foreground, and you are at 16mm, F/2.8 you will need to be about 10 feet away from the object to get it in focus to infinity.
6) Plug in your intervalometer (Interval Meter) and set it to take 30 second exposures every 60 seconds for 60 to 75 minutes. You can go for hours, but this would be a good length of time for learning.
Why 30 second exposures? There is something called the rule of 500 that will explain why this works the best with star trails. I know you and lighthouse aren't buds, but he is a expert on this rule .. he actually calls it the rule of 600 ... I think .. he'll straigten me out if I'm wrong .. that's for sure. Perhaps someone else will come along and explain it before the Aussie side of the world wakes up.
You could actually go a little longer .. up to to 35 seconds, but you do want to think about minimizing noise. Hope this helps! :-)
Feb 18, 2015 14:13:36 #
Hello NightSki, if you don't mind here's a link to a very good explanation to the 500/600 Rule.
http://starcircleacademy.com/2012/06/600-rule
http://starcircleacademy.com/2012/06/600-rule
Feb 18, 2015 14:17:18 #
CraigFair wrote:
Thank you, Craig .. I just added another step. I forgot the part about how to focus. LOLHello NightSki, if you don't mind here's a link to a very good explanation to the 500/600 Rule.
http://starcircleacademy.com/2012/06/600-rule
http://starcircleacademy.com/2012/06/600-rule
Feb 18, 2015 14:28:32 #
Here is a snapshot of a star trail that Ian Shive did. Creative Live has given me permission to share things on UHH as long as I don't allow download with the download box.
This was actually taken during blue hour, which is something fun you can do if you want the sky to be more blue.
He also did this pointing the camera directly at the North Star. North poles so that he got the circular effect behind the cactus. This was a 75 minute session.
This was actually taken during blue hour, which is something fun you can do if you want the sky to be more blue.
He also did this pointing the camera directly at the North Star. North poles so that he got the circular effect behind the cactus. This was a 75 minute session.
Star Trails by Ian Shive
Feb 18, 2015 14:58:16 #
Sonny, everything that Sandra said PLUS you also need to turn off your long exposure noise reduction. That's why your stacks look dashed. The camera is taking a 30 second dark frame after each of your 30 second exposures. One more step to perfection! Also reduce the gap between exposures to a minimum. When the shutter is closed the earth is still turning and the stars will move.
If you're having trouble focusing in the dark, you can do a manual infinity focus in the daylight and lock it with a little piece of gaffer's tape or that blue painter's tape or put some little reference marks on the lens barrel so you don't have to guess.
If you're having trouble focusing in the dark, you can do a manual infinity focus in the daylight and lock it with a little piece of gaffer's tape or that blue painter's tape or put some little reference marks on the lens barrel so you don't have to guess.
Feb 18, 2015 18:24:12 #
Thank you both for the help!
1. Check. My heavy is a contractors surveying tripod. I'll hang a 5 gallon bucket on it with water in it.
2. Uhh, that requires traveling. For now, I'll do my best with what I've got.
3. F3.5, 10-24mm tele. Sorry, a poor man has poor ways. ;)
4. Check. Did some daylight set-up for another series tonight.
5. :lol: Palm trees bordering.
6. Cords not long enough. It's on a mail truck somewhere. ;)
My fooling around on the web brought me to 30 second exposures as a starting point. Oddly, my camera (Nikon D3300) has up to 30 seconds before going to Bulb, and next is Time.
So using my wired release to trigger the exposures worked good for me. I was saving my first attempt in RAW. I have still to fiddle with that.
This one was my second session of the night, and shot in jpg Large.
Oddly enough, I was watching my camera as it stored each exposure. It was taking ~30-34 seconds for each, to store. I discovered I could press the release during the storage period, and the shutter would automatically release for the next 30 second exposure/storage cycle.
Or, I could get away with not watching the camera "signals", just press the remote release during the storage side of the cycle.
My wide angle is F3.5, and from 10mm-24mm. Being as I really am quite new to this, I chose the 24mm side of my field. I have learned the 10 side would have been better.
But my view of the sky is "cluttered" in my back yard. I did a set-up with my clearest view, and took some pictures.
Wires, trees, and light pollution abounds. So it is good for learning, but bad for anything presentable.
I have higher hopes with being able to use the Intervalometer to take care of doing the stop motion cycles automatically.
But grass don't grow on a busy street, So I will forge ahead with my handycap, manually snapping away. ;)
This is fun! :lol:
1. Check. My heavy is a contractors surveying tripod. I'll hang a 5 gallon bucket on it with water in it.
2. Uhh, that requires traveling. For now, I'll do my best with what I've got.
3. F3.5, 10-24mm tele. Sorry, a poor man has poor ways. ;)
4. Check. Did some daylight set-up for another series tonight.
5. :lol: Palm trees bordering.
6. Cords not long enough. It's on a mail truck somewhere. ;)
My fooling around on the web brought me to 30 second exposures as a starting point. Oddly, my camera (Nikon D3300) has up to 30 seconds before going to Bulb, and next is Time.
So using my wired release to trigger the exposures worked good for me. I was saving my first attempt in RAW. I have still to fiddle with that.
This one was my second session of the night, and shot in jpg Large.
Oddly enough, I was watching my camera as it stored each exposure. It was taking ~30-34 seconds for each, to store. I discovered I could press the release during the storage period, and the shutter would automatically release for the next 30 second exposure/storage cycle.
Or, I could get away with not watching the camera "signals", just press the remote release during the storage side of the cycle.
My wide angle is F3.5, and from 10mm-24mm. Being as I really am quite new to this, I chose the 24mm side of my field. I have learned the 10 side would have been better.
But my view of the sky is "cluttered" in my back yard. I did a set-up with my clearest view, and took some pictures.
Wires, trees, and light pollution abounds. So it is good for learning, but bad for anything presentable.
I have higher hopes with being able to use the Intervalometer to take care of doing the stop motion cycles automatically.
But grass don't grow on a busy street, So I will forge ahead with my handycap, manually snapping away. ;)
This is fun! :lol:
Feb 18, 2015 18:56:48 #
SonnyE wrote:
A suggestion, turn off the 2 noise reductions apps and you'll stop the long periods between shots. What it's doing is taking a Dark Frame of 30 sec for you. It's part of your polka dot problem also. :P :P :PThank you both for the help!
Feb 18, 2015 19:46:42 #
CraigFair wrote:
Yes, Skylane brought this up too. No in camera noise reduction. It messes with your timing .. good to know. I am so glad this subject has been brought up. I am learning and I am getting so excited about trying this I might have to go out as soon as it's above zero, next week.A suggestion, turn off the 2 noise reductions apps and you'll stop the long periods between shots.
Feb 18, 2015 20:04:06 #
Nightski wrote:
I learned that lesson the hard way:P :P :PYes, Skylane brought this up too. No in camera noise reduction. It messes with your timing .. good to know. I am so glad this subject has been brought up. I am learning and I am getting so excited about trying this I might have to go out as soon as it's above zero ... next week.
Feb 18, 2015 22:44:14 #
skylane5sp wrote:
Ah-HA! I thought it odd it took so long to "store" the shot.. . . you also need to turn off your long exposure noise reduction.
OK. Thanks Skylane.
As it turned out, the center of the Infinity mark was what turned out to be the best focus in the afternoon light.
So If things slip, I should be able to re-center it.
I spent the afternoon (after my school run) setting up for another go.
I did manage to find the two noise reduction settings on my camera and turned them off.
So I'm ready to try again. I set up in a different place today with a better shot. Even though it is South facing.
I managed to get a bucket set up hanging from my tripod, and put ~3 gallons of water in it for ballast. So it's very stable.
North in my yard has power and utilities running overhead. And there is light pollution as well from a Condo complex across the wash. (Horrible Pollution)
So I think I'll don my insulated bibs and brave the cold (61.3 F right now. :roll: ) and see what I can get. Just for the fun of it.
Thank you all so much for your guidance!
I'll keep pecking at it. ;)
Feb 19, 2015 01:24:24 #
OK, I shot till the camera dropped.
Dumb me didn't charge the batteries after the last Star-trails run. :oops: I had begun tonight when I realized my ignorance. :hunf:
So, trying Sandra's suggestion I set ISO 800. I also shut off (Selected No) for noise reduction. Weighted down my tripod.
And tried my own idea's of Normal jpg picture quality, and 10 second exposures. Oh, and 10mm on my wide angle lens, at F4.5.
I got 300 captures (plus some trial shots) out of my batteries in my battery grip. The following picture is comprised of 295 jpg photographs assembled in Star-trails software.
I learned that with the current settings my camera (D3300) with a locked on wired remote will continuously fire for an estimated 100 shots before I have to release it and relock it.
That may be because the Release Mode was set to continuous.
Or because the other settings have been refined. But it was relaxing to sit and watch the sky, cuss airplanes, listen to the dog snore, and watch the camera march along.
PP consisted of doing Brightness and Contrast adjustments only on the final output picture in Adobe Elements 12.
I am well pleased with the results of you folks sharing your knowledge and advice with me. Thank You!
Dumb me didn't charge the batteries after the last Star-trails run. :oops: I had begun tonight when I realized my ignorance. :hunf:
So, trying Sandra's suggestion I set ISO 800. I also shut off (Selected No) for noise reduction. Weighted down my tripod.
And tried my own idea's of Normal jpg picture quality, and 10 second exposures. Oh, and 10mm on my wide angle lens, at F4.5.
I got 300 captures (plus some trial shots) out of my batteries in my battery grip. The following picture is comprised of 295 jpg photographs assembled in Star-trails software.
I learned that with the current settings my camera (D3300) with a locked on wired remote will continuously fire for an estimated 100 shots before I have to release it and relock it.
That may be because the Release Mode was set to continuous.
Or because the other settings have been refined. But it was relaxing to sit and watch the sky, cuss airplanes, listen to the dog snore, and watch the camera march along.
PP consisted of doing Brightness and Contrast adjustments only on the final output picture in Adobe Elements 12.
I am well pleased with the results of you folks sharing your knowledge and advice with me. Thank You!
Feb 19, 2015 01:57:34 #
I think I might need to work on my focus. And I see some trails appear splayed out, Mirror Slap?
And the quality appears to show the Normal jpg selection. So at least a higher setting, or use RAW.
Still, I'm pleased. ;)
And the quality appears to show the Normal jpg selection. So at least a higher setting, or use RAW.
Still, I'm pleased. ;)
Feb 19, 2015 07:51:49 #
SonnyE wrote:
It's coming along Sonny. Geez this is fun to watch. I am wondering if you could go to 400 ISO? Or do you like that much light? Another thought though ... and I am just muddling in the dark because I have never done this ... but you can always darken the sky in post using your highlights slider ... just remember to darken all the images at the same time. It's easier to darken than to open up shadows. That would just increase any noise problems created during long exposures. I think I might need to work on my focus. And I see some trails appear splayed out, Mirror Slap?
And the quality appears to show the Normal jpg selection. So at least a higher setting, or use RAW.
Still, I'm pleased. ;)
And the quality appears to show the Normal jpg selection. So at least a higher setting, or use RAW.
Still, I'm pleased. ;)
I think you're doing pretty well ... boy .. it looks windy .. hope you had that tripod anchored down. It's twenty below here this morning ... I'm off for my morning snowshoe run, but I won't be taking my camera with this morning. No star trails for me until it warms up a bit.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.