I've not yet started tinkering w/ HDR but want to do so. The big question I have is how to get a photo of person/people w/ 3 exposures and have them stand or sit still enough to switch between exposures and get 3 exact over-lays. I see it working w/ landscape shots on a tripod but does it work w/ any scene where something in the scene changes/moves between the 3 "takes"? Thanks for your help. jthomas
jthomas wrote:
I've not yet started tinkering w/ HDR but want to do so. The big question I have is how to get a photo of person/people w/ 3 exposures and have them stand or sit still enough to switch between exposures and get 3 exact over-lays. I see it working w/ landscape shots on a tripod but does it work w/ any scene where something in the scene changes/moves between the 3 "takes"? Thanks for your help. jthomas
Thank you for typing that out and posting it. I was wondering about that also. I bet it's is some thing you pre-set in camera and after you take the first picture the camera re-sets for the next one.
Most digital SLR's have a setting to take 3 shots 1 normal, 1 1/2 stop under and 1 1/2 stop over. You can set the amount in the menu somewhere. Exposure Bracketing is what it is called in my Canon. If you ask your subjects not to move for a second or 2, you got your 3 shots.
jthomas wrote:
I've not yet started tinkering w/ HDR but want to do so. The big question I have is how to get a photo of person/people w/ 3 exposures and have them stand or sit still enough to switch between exposures and get 3 exact over-lays. I see it working w/ landscape shots on a tripod but does it work w/ any scene where something in the scene changes/moves between the 3 "takes"? Thanks for your help. jthomas
Or, take the shot in 'raw' mode and in PP camera raw import, adjust the exposure slider up at least 1 stop, "save as" new name, then down at least a stop , "save as" new name, and those 2 with your 'original' .dng (if using photoshop elements or ps) you have a short version of 3 photos that you can import into a hdr software program. (That's the 'short' version I use a lot of the time)
jthomas wrote:
how to get a photo of person/people w/ 3 exposures and have them stand or sit still enough to switch between exposures?
My son posed for this 3-image HDR. My tripod-mounted Nikon D5000 was programed to take three rapid-sequence photos at three different shutter durations.
Viewing the expanded, downloaded image, you can see slight movement of one finger, and a few head hairs.
If you get in a situation where it is impossible to get 3 exact photos at different stops, you can always use the trick that I use sometimes. It is certainly not true HDR but the results I get are satisfactory to me if I have to use them. * From a single image, upload to your computer, then make 2 more copies, (or more), and change the brightness on each of the copies. If you are using 3 photos, keep the original as is, on the copies, turn the brightness halfway down on one, and the brightness halfway up on the other. I usually get pretty good results from doing this, but as I said, I only use this in a pinch when I have a moving, (even slightly) subject. Good luck to you :-D
djw60 wrote:
If you get in a situation where it is impossible to get 3 exact photos at different stops, you can always use the trick that I use sometimes. It is certainly not true HDR but the results I get are satisfactory to me if I have to use them. * From a single image, upload to your computer, then make 2 more copies, (or more), and change the brightness on each of the copies. If you are using 3 photos, keep the original as is, on the copies, turn the brightness halfway down on one, and the brightness halfway up on the other. I usually get pretty good results from doing this, but as I said, I only use this in a pinch when I have a moving, (even slightly) subject. Good luck to you :-D
If you get in a situation where it is impossible t... (
show quote)
I have a question - is hdr software in addition to PS and what is the best one to purchase?
One thing you might want to try is to make sure that "remove ghosting" is enabled. This should minimize motion effects. I have had very good success using one RAW picture and adjusting the exposure by either +or- 1 or 2 eV and then using the 3 separate images in Photomatix.
I use Photomatix Pro. I love it!!
dlwhawaii wrote:
One thing you might want to try is to make sure that "remove ghosting" is enabled. This should minimize motion effects. I have had very good success using one RAW picture and adjusting the exposure by either +or- 1 or 2 eV and then using the 3 separate images in Photomatix.
Thank you dlwhawaii for providing that answer. It is the best way since the underexposed image can take a few to several seconds.
Remove Ghosting is a great feature that helps when taking a bracketed shot of anything that might move during the shutter release; tree branches, waving flags and of course people. :thumbup:
suzie123 wrote:
djw60 wrote:
If you get in a situation where it is impossible to get 3 exact photos at different stops, you can always use the trick that I use sometimes. It is certainly not true HDR but the results I get are satisfactory to me if I have to use them. * From a single image, upload to your computer, then make 2 more copies, (or more), and change the brightness on each of the copies. If you are using 3 photos, keep the original as is, on the copies, turn the brightness halfway down on one, and the brightness halfway up on the other. I usually get pretty good results from doing this, but as I said, I only use this in a pinch when I have a moving, (even slightly) subject. Good luck to you :-D
If you get in a situation where it is impossible t... (
show quote)
I have a question - is hdr software in addition to PS and what is the best one to purchase?
quote=djw60 If you get in a situation where it is... (
show quote)
Photoshop CS5 has an HDR command; other serious photographers have told me that Nik Effects (
www.niksoftware.com/) has a good plug in with more functionality, but I have no experience with it.
Photomatrix Pro works well for me also.
My first choice for HDR software is Photomatix Pro, which has more than enough "buttons and whistles" to give you almost any image effects you would like. Next would be Nik HDR Efex, which is easier, but not as versatile. Last would be PS5, which is the easiest to use.
Just started using HDR. The attached photo is acutally my 1st experiement using three bracketed shots. Was sitting in my mother in law's living room. The image is from one of the NIK HDR pre-sets. Having said that I believe people are a real challege with HDR because of the contrasts, hightlights, and shadows. Portraits of people look best with a soft focus look. Still experimenting with people though, if anyone on the forum has tips, pass them on.
jthomas wrote:
I've not yet started tinkering w/ HDR but want to do so. The big question I have is how to get a photo of person/people w/ 3 exposures and have them stand or sit still enough to switch between exposures and get 3 exact over-lays. I see it working w/ landscape shots on a tripod but does it work w/ any scene where something in the scene changes/moves between the 3 "takes"? Thanks for your help. jthomas
oooooooooooooJT HDR of people could look really spooky and/or really cool.. Be sure to post
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.