Macro focus rail suggestions: I just got into macro photography and am looking for a good but not outrageously priced X & Y focus rail setup. I find prices from less than $100 to over...

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

I just got into macro photography and am looking for a good but not outrageously priced X & Y focus rail setup. I find prices from less than $100 to over $600. I am using a Canon 6D with the 180 macro lens. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

PAR4DCR Loc: A Sunny Place

I bought one from Adorama for about $75.00 that works fairly well.
Don

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Price is not equal to quality.
Several much less expensive alternatives than 'brand name' are available to a fraction of the outrageous prices demanded, same quality.
What you may want ask yourself is if you will need a motorized one in the long run (or not).
(Jumped out of my skin, lightning shot not far from the house and thunder w/o precursor rumbling)
This motorized thing is useful to make the camera travel back and forth automatically if you use photo stacking (among other things).
When purchasing, read the customer comment, anything that elicit a 'camera rail creep' comment is not a good idea. It means the knobs and blocking pads constructs are not good.

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

Thanks

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

Couple of questions papa - what is the weight of your camera and lens and what magnifications do you want to capture?

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

A-PeeR wrote:

what is the weight of your camera and lens and what magnifications do you want to capture?

Camera & lens a little over 4.5 lbs. 1:1 magnifications of flowers & insects. I am using an Induro carbon fiber tripod with adequate ball head.

papakatz45 Loc: South Florida-West Palm Beach

Nikonian72 wrote:

There are a few macro-photographers on this forum who post photos captures with macro-rail systems. I suggest that you take advice ONLY from UHH members willing to post focus-stacked macro-photographs, such as:

Thanks for the info.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Nikonian72, I am indeed honored by your using my coined phrase as your motto!! Thank you. (please add d/p 2014) :thumbup: :oops: :-D
If I do macros I will change my motto to "Dead Bugs Don't Bite and Pose All Day." I will confess that my last month's CClub submission..."Dragon Fly on a Flower" was long dead and had a touch of epoxy hold that fragile tale together. It got an "award ranking" ssss, don't tell. No one notice that one leg was missing!!

Thank you for the references... I have them saved for a long weekend when the weather if cold and raining.. lots of reading and contemplation there.

Probably a simple question... why do we move the camera rather than changing the focus of the lens? I Have in my mind designed a method for making very small changes in focus and triggering the camera at set increments. Since I will be using my antique M-42 lenses 200/50mm stack which gives a 5/1 at 4 cm** I can change focus and aperture easily with the rings the turning of the focus ring seems like an advantage.

Thank you for the references... I have them saved for a long weekend when the weather if cold and raining.. lots of reading and contemplation there.

** http://www.school-of-digital-photography.com/2013/11/stacking-lenses-with-coupling-rings-for-extreme-macro-photography.html

A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

papakatz45 wrote:

Camera & lens a little over 4.5 lbs. 1:1 magnifications of flowers & insects. I am using an Induro carbon fiber tripod with adequate ball head.

Papa - For 1:1 stacking you don't need an automated rail solution. Personally, I would opt for the Velbon Rail if I was buying an off the shelf solution:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/193311-REG/Velbon_SUPER_MAG_SLIDER_Super_Mag_Slider.html

LoneRangeFinder uses this rail with good results. Hopefully he'll see this thread and chime in with his thoughts. Personally I have never used the rail. I have handled one at the local shop at put it through it's paces. A well built unit and the resolution (precision of travel) is more than adequate for 1:1. You do have a tripod ring for the 180mm, correct?

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

A-PeeR wrote:

Papa - For 1:1 stacking you don't need an automate... (show quote)

Yes I use a Velbon Super Slide focusing rail. It does not have a scale, however I've been able to do a number of stacks without the banding that occurs die insufficient overlap. If you decide to purchase one, PM me and I'll give you some of my "dos & don'ts" so you can avoid a few of the beginner mistakes that we all make. I also switched the focusing knob for the y axis movement. which is easy to do. It ships with the knobs both on the right side which is clumsy unless you have fingers the size of an elf. You can also check out some of my posts using the rail: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-235264-1.html
Allen

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

dpullum wrote:

why do we move the camera rather than changing the focus of the lens? I can change focus and aperture easily with the rings the turning of the focus ring seems like an advantage.

You can, in fact, adjust the plane of focus using the focusing ring on the lens. Focus stacking may also be used in wider landscape shots to attain more depth of field.

For macro, however, I believe you'll get consistently better results using a focusing rail and moving the camera. The reason is this: the possibility of accidental unintended movements is increased the direct contact you have with your camera & lens. When I focus stack, I adjust the rail knob & the cable release only. This minimizes the chances of jostling your set-up.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Thank you LoanRangeFinder wisdom of experience is of great worth. :thumbup: :thumbup:

MACT Loc: Connecticut

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

For macro, however, I believe you'll get consistently better results using a focusing rail and moving the camera. The reason is this: the possibility of accidental unintended movements is increased the direct contact you have with your camera & lens. When I focus stack, I adjust the rail knob & the cable release only. This minimizes the chances of jostling your set-up.

I use Stackshot in conjunction with Helicon Remote. That means you never have to touch the camera for either focus stacking or rail stacking. As to which is better, my knowledge of optics isn't good enough to argue theory. I do know several people suggest the rail system allows a much finer series of adjustments, which may be particularly useful at wide open apertures.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

MACT wrote:

I use Stackshot in conjunction with Helicon Remote. That means you never have to touch the camera for either focus stacking or rail stacking. As to which is better, my knowledge of optics isn't good enough to argue theory. I do know several people suggest the rail system allows a much finer series of adjustments, which may be particularly useful at wide open apertures.

I'd use one if I had it. I'm stuck with the "poor man's" rig. I'm sure the StackShot is preferable for the capability to dial in the increments and then the starting & ending points.