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PP Finding gray in an image - Please share your method(s) to find it -
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Aug 1, 2014 20:55:29   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
kymarto wrote:
If you are looking for mid-grey from an image of an 18% grey card, the correct values are apparently 117,117,117--maybe. However if you are using a grey card as a WB reference the easy way is to use the grey eyedropper in curves and then batch apply that correction. Here is an interesting discussion;

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=19913
Thank you.

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Aug 1, 2014 21:49:48   #
kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
 
Rule #1 for achieving good WB. Shoot raw...

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Aug 1, 2014 22:09:34   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
kymarto wrote:
Rule #1 for achieving good WB. Shoot raw...

What do you think I do and advocates loudly?

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Aug 2, 2014 06:40:43   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
kymarto wrote:
Rule #1 for achieving good WB. Shoot raw...

We know that - but it only gets you back to square 1.

My point is that, even if you use a gray card, should it actually be gray in the image if the color of the light is not neutral? Maybe not.

The advantage of selecting a daylight balance for the JPEG is so that you are reminded of the color of the light before you start messing with the raw image. If the illumination is deficient in blue (incandescent light) or has a green spike (fluorescent) you will be know what you are up against and can make an aesthetic decision based on how you remember the scene and how you want to depict it. That may not always be neutral.

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Aug 2, 2014 08:10:35   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
selmslie wrote:
We know that - but it only gets you back to square 1.

My point is that, even if you use a gray card, should it actually be gray in the image if the color of the light is not neutral? Maybe not.

The advantage of selecting a daylight balance for the JPEG is so that you are reminded of the color of the light before you start messing with the raw image. If the illumination is deficient in blue (incandescent light) or has a green spike (fluorescent) you will be know what you are up against and can make an aesthetic decision based on how you remember the scene and how you want to depict it. That may not always be neutral.
We know that - but it only gets you back to square... (show quote)


Shooting raw you merely assign whatever color balance you want. Gray cards do not work well in non-continuous spectrum light, so in challenging light they are pointless.

I do agree with establishing a "baseline reference" for color manipulation. But its better to start with a color corrected neutral baseline.

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Aug 2, 2014 09:28:49   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
Gene51 wrote:
...
A new thread... See any white in there, other than blown areas? :shock:

(more for fun than arguing so light comment I agreed to disagree on that one.) :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Aug 2, 2014 17:01:54   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Rongnongno wrote:
I do not use LR, will not use LR so forget that option!!! :lol:

As to multiple sources of lights, this where masking using channels gets really important, in my opinion and limited experience with that one. Lab Mode will really work on that, I think, but as I typed before I have trouble using it.


I use LR and ACR interchangeably - same editor, same results -

But what if your image has no gray at all?

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Aug 2, 2014 18:11:16   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
Gene51 wrote:
I use LR and ACR interchangeably - same editor, same results -

But what if your image has no gray at all?

It gives you the nearest gray, not the exact one. If you need to raise more than 3, you do not have a true gray.
Hence my reservations over the method used.
Rongnongno wrote:
...All well and good BUT
What you really select are the pixels that are closest to true gray within the image. That is why I typed "It work 95% of the times"...

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Aug 2, 2014 19:38:14   #
kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
 
Why do people want to find grey, anyway?

Nikon has a very nice manual white balance feature; works like my video cameras. Shoot a white card for reference and the camera adjusts both axes: color temp and green-magenta, if you shoot tiff or jpg.

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Aug 2, 2014 20:21:04   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
kymarto wrote:
Why do people want to find grey, anyway?
Simply because there is need?

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Aug 2, 2014 22:07:14   #
kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
 
No, I mean what purpose does it serve?

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Aug 2, 2014 23:04:29   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
It is more accurate than trying to find the black and white... This is also possible but few know how and not really that complex.

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Aug 3, 2014 05:36:00   #
kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
 
Well, I'm still a bit lost as to what you do with grey once you find it. Unless you are looking to eliminate a color cast, in which case you would want to know beforehand what is grey or have a grey reference included in the frame.

You can get a grey by total accident: underexposing a light blue under an incandescent light source might give you a perfect mid-grey in the image. Find that and what good does it do you?

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Aug 3, 2014 06:28:48   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Here, find the "middle gray" in this picture. I've tried . . .


(Download)

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Aug 3, 2014 12:11:19   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
Gene51 wrote:
Here, find the "middle gray" in this picture. I've tried . . .


(Download)

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