Bad Fireworks shots ... Please do not "Nice Shot" these photos. I'm looking for advice on how to do better next time. I know they are bad .. I do not want to edit them. I simply want...

Nightski

I'm looking for advice on how to do better next time. I know they are bad .. I do not want to edit them. I simply want to keep a couple of the 50 I took so I can look back and hopefully laugh someday.

These are two of my best ones ...

How do you focus on something that isn't there yet and will only last for seconds? and it's in the dark ...

Was I close on the settings?

Canon 6D
Canon 50mm F1.8
Hand held

F1.8 ISO1600 1/60 Second

(Download)

F1.8 ISO1600 1/60 Second

(Download)

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Prefocus on a distant subject, then turn off autofocus completely. Use Manual, F11 to F16 for good depth, ISO 100-400, and experiment with the shutter speed to get the effects you want. Fireworks are bright so long exposures are not necessary unless you want to capture trails in the fireworks. Fast shutter speeds will allow you to capture the actual burst if that's what you are after. Trying to make a camera focus or meter on something so fleeting can be a total waste of time, this is the best time for manual settings. Also, a lightning trigger works really well on them if you have one.

Nightski

I was trying to manual focus... guess I need more practice. I may need to look into that lightening trigger thingy. Thanks, MT.

Nightski

Are you thinking I should have focused on that boat out there that looks like it's right under the fireworks? What else could I use as a gauge?

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Nightski wrote:

Are you thinking I should have focused on that boat out there that looks like it's right under the fireworks? What else could I use as a gauge?

The boat would work, pretty much anything that will give you true infinity focus (far shore of the lake, etc.). The DOF of the smaller aperture will give you the focus results you need. Just be sure to turn off the AF after you have set the focus or the camera will be hunting for focus.

Bmac Loc: Long Island, NY

http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-photograph-fireworks/

Kestrel1029 Loc: Philadelphia, PA

I would also suggest a tripod and a remote trigger. I'm not sure if the area you were in would conducive for tripod use, but that is my suggestion.

ptcanon3ti Loc: NJ

If I may...

I suggest you use a tripod this will allow you to:
lower your ISO.
frame your shots consistently
use a longer shutter speed so you can get nice trailing of the fireworks

as far as actual settings:
Focus on a "spot" where the fireworks will be exploding. Then switch your lens to manual so it will not hunt.

iso 200-400 max (100 would actually be good.)
f8-11
Set camera to "bulb" mode and fire with a wired shutter release. Hold the shutter open as long as you'd like in order include as may fireworks in one shot as you want.

Nightski

ptcanon3ti wrote:

If I may... br br I suggest you use a tripod this... (show quote)

Awesome image, PT ... thanks for the info. :-)

Nightski

Kestrel1029 wrote:

I would also suggest a tripod and a remote trigger. I'm not sure if the area you were in would conducive for tripod use, but that is my suggestion.

Yes, I could have done that. I was just playing this year as I have never done it before and didn't know what to expect. I'll bring those things next year. Thanks.

amehta Loc: Boston

Nightski wrote:

I'm looking for advice on how to do better next time. I know they are bad .. I do not want to edit them. I simply want to keep a couple of the 50 I took so I can look back and hopefully laugh someday.

These are two of my best ones ...

How do you focus on something that isn't there yet and will only last for seconds? and it's in the dark ...

Was I close on the settings?

Canon 6D
Canon 50mm F1.8
Hand held

First decide what types of pictures you want (burst or trails) and what equipment you are willing to use (tripod or monopod).

As has been suggested, everything should be manual, the camera has little chance to expose the fireworks right.

The challenge here is that it looks dark to both the camera and to us, because both do some averaging over the scene. The pixels, however, record the bright light which hits them. This is the same problem as shooting the moon.

Nightski

amehta wrote:

First decide what types of pictures you want (burst or trails) and what equipment you are willing to use (tripod or monopod). The fireworks go on for 20 minutes. I could try both. I will bring a tripod. I don't have a monopod.

amehta wrote:

As has been suggested, everything should be manual, the camera has little chance to expose the fireworks right.

I never use anything except manual. It's what I am used to. I do use auto focus ... but I didn't use it that night because the lens won't AF in the dark.

amehta wrote:

The challenge here is that it looks dark to both the camera and to us, because both do some averaging over the scene. The pixels, however, record the bright light which hits them. This is the same problem as shooting the moon.

I'm not great at shooting the moon either. Country's Mama brought home a beautiful orange moon from the Badlands and I had a blown out white globe. Awful... but I get what you are saying. Expose for the bright lights.

amehta Loc: Boston

Nightski wrote:

I never use anything except manual. It's what I am used to. I do use auto focus ... but I didn't use it that night because the lens won't AF in the dark.
...
I'm not great at shooting the moon either. Country's Mama brought home a beautiful orange moon from the Badlands and I had a blown out white globe. Awful... but I get what you are saying. Expose for the bright lights.

Yes, after I wrote that, I remembered who I was talking to. :-)

Shooting the moon is simple, it requires just three things:
1. a visible moon
2. a card big enough for several dozen shots
3. a tripod
Use ISO 100, f/8 or f/11, and take a shot at every shutter speed from 1/4000 to 15 sec. Somewhere in there, you will have a properly exposed moon, and the exposure will be in the EXIF data, so you don't even need to take notes.

Nightski

amehta wrote:

Yes, after I wrote that, I remembered who I was talking to. :-)

Shooting the moon is simple, it requires just three things:
1. a visible moon
2. a card big enough for several dozen shots
3. a tripod
Use ISO 100, f/8 or f/11, and take a shot at every shutter speed from 1/4000 to 15 sec. Somewhere in there, you will have a properly exposed moon, and the exposure will be in the EXIF data, so you don't even need to take notes.

Amehta ... you make me laugh ... love your sense of humor. :-D I am printing this out and storing it in my camera pak. Thank you. :-)

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

[quote=Nightski]I'm looking for advice on how to do better next time. I know they are bad .. I do not want to edit them. I simply want to keep a couple of the 50 I took so I can look back and hopefully laugh someday.

These are two of my best ones ...

How do you focus on something that isn't there yet and will only last for seconds? and it's in the dark ...

Was I close on the settings? [quote]

This is as close to a tutorial as you could wish for.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-216114-1.html