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Fireworks....,How to shoot them....,FAQ's
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Jun 4, 2014 03:46:52   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Fellow Hogs, my second post!
In about a week or two, we are going to be flooded with requests on how to shoot FIREWORKS!
I know from past posts that some of you are very good at it, and that some of you have special techniques using zoom and defocus etc.
Lets all put together a comprehensive guide on shooting fireworks. There have been a lot of new Hogs joined in the past 12 months that I'm sure may find this very useful.
I'm also sure there is plenty in the archives, but we all know how much we Hogs hate to use the search feature.
Show us your favorite technique and tell us how you achieve it. Maybe we can all learn from each other and try something a little different this coming 4th. :lol: We can revive this post every July.
So lets have at it!!
I shoot three main categories, 1, a single blast, 2, multiple blast and 3, building a shot using the blast and incorporating the environment to produce a stronger pictorial composition. My examples are the latter two.

I shoot everything on Bulb at ISO 100 with a somewhat smaller aperture to control the brightness of the blast. Most critical is the white-hot explosion. I use my blinkies to let me know when I've got too much blowout, and adjust the f-stop rather than the time. I always use a tripod, and auto focus on a distant infinity object, then, turn AF off, but check it periodically. Stats are as follows:
Both shots with Canon 5Dmkll @ ISO 100, on Bulb Mode.

Shot #1, Lens, 24-105L @24mm
Time, 3seconds
f-stop = 22
Date 7/4/2011

shot #2, lens 17-40L @ 17mm
time, 3 seconds
f-stop = 8
Date, 7/4/2013

Thanks, SS :wink:

#1 multiple blasts
#1 multiple blasts...
(Download)

#2 environmental composition
#2 environmental composition...
(Download)

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Jun 4, 2014 05:40:54   #
Jay Pat Loc: Round Rock, Texas, USA
 
Very nice images!!!!
Thanks for the tips!!
Pat

Reply
Jun 4, 2014 06:50:34   #
juicesqueezer Loc: Okeechobee, Florida
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Fellow Hogs, my second post!
In about a week or two, we are going to be flooded with requests on how to shoot FIREWORKS!
I know from past posts that some of you are very good at it, and that some of you have special techniques using zoom and defocus etc.
Lets all put together a comprehensive guide on shooting fireworks. There have been a lot of new Hogs joined in the past 12 months that I'm sure may find this very useful.
I'm also sure there is plenty in the archives, but we all know how much we Hogs hate to use the search feature.
Show us your favorite technique and tell us how you achieve it. Maybe we can all learn from each other and try something a little different this coming 4th. :lol: We can revive this post every July.
So lets have at it!!
I shoot three main categories, 1, a single blast, 2, multiple blast and 3, building a shot using the blast and incorporating the environment to produce a stronger pictorial composition. My examples are the latter two.

I shoot everything on Bulb at ISO 100 with a somewhat smaller aperture to control the brightness of the blast. Most critical is the white-hot explosion. I use my blinkies to let me know when I've got too much blowout, and adjust the f-stop rather than the time. I always use a tripod, and auto focus on a distant infinity object, then, turn AF off, but check it periodically. Stats are as follows:
Both shots with Canon 5Dmkll @ ISO 100, on Bulb Mode.

Shot #1, Lens, 24-105L @24mm
Time, 3seconds
f-stop = 22
Date 7/4/2011

shot #2, lens 17-40L @ 17mm
time, 3 seconds
f-stop = 8
Date, 7/4/2013

Thanks, SS :wink:
Fellow Hogs, my second post! br In about a week or... (show quote)


Thanks SS! I tried my hand at this last year with my Nikon D5100 and 55-200 lens. Used the bulb method and thought, for the first time, got some great shots. We live in a small town and no fill in for the shots with regards to city lights, water or people.


(Download)

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Jun 4, 2014 16:02:39   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Thanks Jay and Squeezer.
OK Hogs, where are all you fireworks shooters? I know you're out there. Don't be shy.

A little more info on the compo shot.
Fireworks tend to get really crowded, and standing in the crowd makes photography tough.
Here's what I did. This shot was actually planned way in advance. I went there the day before to scout out my location, knowing it would be really crowded. I picked my area. I had brought a 5 foot ladder with me and chained it to a tree nearby, since driving in would not be possible. Arriving the next night, I retrieved my ladder to which I clamped a plywood platform onto which my tripod would stand. In this way I could be behind all the people and not be in their way, and they not in my way, since I was above them all. Afterward I changed the ladder back onto the tree and retrieved it the next day.
Yes, it took a little logistical planning, but I got the shot I came for.

Now I just need you guys to start to give up your fireworks trade secrets and post away!! :lol:
SS

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Jun 4, 2014 17:52:37   #
G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
 
I use my Fuji point and shoot on fireworks scene selection (duh) it works..even hand held..(fireworks move just like shake(?)Honest )

my tip would be: often fireworks go off singly so look where then end up in your shot and then 'place' the next one somewhere else in 'the shot' so that when you PP and combine them they don't interfere. I also make tryptics of single star bursts in one frame.

You can always try out your camera settings by photographing burning steel wool held in a jump lead crocodile clip and spun around by an idiot friend.
Its got a similar heat signature and you can get those people shots, with bright lights, in the dark whilst wearing gloves, eating burgers in the rain. (damn - you don't do Guy fawks in November).

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Jun 5, 2014 08:52:53   #
Jcmarino
 
Beautiful shots. Thanks for thinking about this and posting it.

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Jun 5, 2014 11:40:44   #
13oct1931 Loc: Lebanon, Indiana
 
You don't need help--your shots are "works of Art." Alyn

Reply
 
 
Jun 5, 2014 14:52:50   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
13oct1931 wrote:
You don't need help--your shots are "works of Art." Alyn


13th, hey, thanks for the kind accolades, but my shrink will definately dissagree with you! :lol:
13th, every now and then even I get a lucky shot!!
I've seen some of the different techniques that have been used that I've never tried and would like to learn. I was just hoping that we could all learn from those Photogs. if I can get them to put their cameras down for a few minutes! :lol:
So again Hogs, show us your techniques and tell us how you do it!! ;-)
SS

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Jun 5, 2014 23:47:13   #
jkm757 Loc: San Diego, Ca.
 
These two shots are from my first try at shooting fireworks two years ago.

Nikon D5000. 18-55mm lens at 28mm. Apature F/11. ISO 200. SS 2 sec.
Nikon D5000. 18-55mm lens at 28mm. Apature F/11. I...
(Download)

Nikon D5000 18-55mm lens at 34mm. Apature F/11 ISO 200. SS 10 sec.
Nikon D5000 18-55mm lens at 34mm. Apature F/11 ISO...
(Download)

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Jun 6, 2014 02:20:01   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
jkm757 wrote:
These two shots are from my first try at shooting fireworks two years ago.


JKM, thanks for posting your shots. That's pretty darn good on your first try.
IMHO, I think you would benifit from moving to ISO 1from instead of 200. That would control your white areas that are blown out. Also make sure your blinkies are on.
Again, thanks.
SS

Reply
Jun 6, 2014 16:56:09   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
G Brown wrote:
I use my Fuji point and shoot on fireworks scene selection (duh) it works..even hand held..(fireworks move just like shake(?)Honest )

my tip would be: often fireworks go off singly so look where then end up in your shot and then 'place' the next one somewhere else in 'the shot' so that when you PP and combine them they don't interfere. I also make tryptics of single star bursts in one frame.

You can always try out your camera settings by photographing burning steel wool held in a jump lead crocodile clip and spun around by an idiot friend.
Its got a similar heat signature and you can get those people shots, with bright lights, in the dark whilst wearing gloves, eating burgers in the rain. (damn - you don't do Guy fawks in November).
I use my Fuji point and shoot on fireworks scene s... (show quote)


GBrown, hey, thanks for posting.
By tryptic, do you mean 3 seperate prints, size by side on one piece of paper, or 3 separate blasts, side by side, in one print?
Do you have a tryptic that you could post and show us? If so, please post it.
Yes, some of the steel will shots can get pretty interesting, that's for sure. What weight steel wool works the best and how long will it burn? Thanks. ;-)
SS

Reply
 
 
Jun 7, 2014 15:43:29   #
G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
 
sharpshooter:

Tryptic is 3 seporate prints on one piece of paper or 4 in a square etc
The point about blending was to get two or three shots and merge them so as to get a 'spectacular' show in one print(like the finale but created from individual fireworks ) because the difference in light from a single firework as opposed to multiple fireworks going off at once may overload your sensor and burn out detail. (it does on video when they show NYE fireworks)

Steel wool - do you have the old fashioned pan scourers with steel wool coated in soap?(brillo pad in UK) use these and set fire to them with a blow torch. once they start to glow spin them like crazy.Hence the use of a crockodile clip on a length of strong wire. Do it outdoors and away from the family.......If you have fine steel wool used in a wood shop instead of sandpaper and a smoke detector sized battery (small rectangular two pole one) use two small clips to = - and clip on to the steel wire ......you get a wrigling snake like display of red lines as the wire shorts out the current. (seen it - havent done it yet)

other trick is to use a led torch to 'paint' around an object or person whilst the camera is on bulb. an oldie but goodie whilst you are enjoying night photography.

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Jun 7, 2014 16:12:59   #
Gobuster Loc: South Florida
 
Ok SS, here are some from last year. My technique was to have the camera tripod mounted and use a wireless shutter release to trigger a 4 second exposure. I would release the shutter as soon as I saw the trail of the shell going up. All these were taken with a Nikon D90 fitted with a Nikon 28-300mm lens. All shots were at native ISO 200 with exposure controlled with aperture preference. This was a first effort, C&C welcome; need to get ready for this year!

F11 Lens at 125mm
F11 Lens at 125mm...
(Download)

F 11 Lens at 210mm
F 11 Lens at 210mm...
(Download)

F 10 Lens at 200mm
F 10 Lens at 200mm...
(Download)

F 10 Lens at 100mm
F 10 Lens at 100mm...
(Download)

F 10 Lens at 100mm
F 10 Lens at 100mm...
(Download)

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Jun 8, 2014 00:53:44   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
G Brown wrote:
sharpshooter:

Tryptic is 3 seporate prints on one piece of paper or 4 in a square etc
The point about blending was to get two or three shots and merge them so as to get a 'spectacular' show in one print(like the finale but created from individual fireworks ) because the difference in light from a single firework as opposed to multiple fireworks going off at once may overload your sensor and burn out detail. (it does on video when they show NYE fireworks)

Steel wool - do you have the old fashioned pan scourers with steel wool coated in soap?(brillo pad in UK) use these and set fire to them with a blow torch. once they start to glow spin them like crazy.Hence the use of a crockodile clip on a length of strong wire. Do it outdoors and away from the family.......If you have fine steel wool used in a wood shop instead of sandpaper and a smoke detector sized battery (small rectangular two pole one) use two small clips to = - and clip on to the steel wire ......you get a wrigling snake like display of red lines as the wire shorts out the current. (seen it - havent done it yet)

other trick is to use a led torch to 'paint' around an object or person whilst the camera is on bulb. an oldie but goodie whilst you are enjoying night photography.
sharpshooter: br br Tryptic is 3 seporate prints ... (show quote)


GBrown, thanks for the info.
A technique that I have used that may yield a similar multiple blast, is to use bulb or 30 second exposure and open the shutter at the first trail, and after each, cover my lens with a hat, or opaque cloth, then uncover again at the next missle trail. Of course you can't control where in the frame they will be, but it looks random just like a Big finale. Anything you do in post is extra work!
I've never done the steel wool thing but have been wanting to.
Thanks for all the info. :thumbup:
SS

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Jun 8, 2014 01:49:58   #
cntry Loc: Colorado
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Also make sure your blinkies are on.SS


Ok, I'm going to show my ignorance here...what are "blinkies"? :?

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