White Balance
Jan 16, 2012 12:51:21 #
What's to worry? if your close your close. Some days clouds and sky look like crap and when photographed they look like crap also. I just spent 2 days in a cloudy, dreary nasty looking colors and sky and guess what, I change white balance, tweak saturation, all in camera prior to the shot, and everything else I could think of and Guess what, still looks dreary, cloudy and Crap. Some days you just can't polish a turd, and if you PP it to much it just looks like a Polished Turd.
Jan 16, 2012 12:55:10 #
photogrl57 wrote:
As you can see by the photos it was a very gloomy overcast day out ... and I could not get my white balance set properly ....I even had the manual with me and used it.
I know I can always photoshop these into looking decent but that won't help me learn the adjustments properly.
Short of putting the camera on auto .. what would you have done ?
These settings are all over the place but you can see I tried a bunch of them ... never did get it right. These are just a few.
I know I can always photoshop these into looking decent but that won't help me learn the adjustments properly.
Short of putting the camera on auto .. what would you have done ?
These settings are all over the place but you can see I tried a bunch of them ... never did get it right. These are just a few.
So far as WB is concerned, I would select AWB "cloudy", snap a reference shot with an 18% gray card for use in PS.
Jan 16, 2012 13:17:01 #
twowindsbear ... I got out my manual to make sure what I was talking about ... the metering modes ...
1. evaluative ... focus' the lighting on just the center of the viewfinder ....
2. partial ... focus' the lighting on more .. perhaps 50% of the viewfinder
3. centerweighted average .. focus' lighting on about 90% of the viewfinder taking the whole subject into consideration.
So it's kind of like spreading out the light metering from very small to very large. Hope this explains it a bit more.
1. evaluative ... focus' the lighting on just the center of the viewfinder ....
2. partial ... focus' the lighting on more .. perhaps 50% of the viewfinder
3. centerweighted average .. focus' lighting on about 90% of the viewfinder taking the whole subject into consideration.
So it's kind of like spreading out the light metering from very small to very large. Hope this explains it a bit more.
Jan 16, 2012 13:19:06 #
Stumptowner wrote:
quote=photogrl57 As you can see by the photos it ... (show quote)
I have no idea what you are referring to when you say 18% grey card ... I've seen that mentioned when shooting snow but .. what is it and how do I access that info ? How do I know where to find it I should say.
Jan 16, 2012 13:29:24 #
photogrl57 wrote:
yeah this has not been edited except to resize
Photogirl57...I am far from being a pro..LOL Matter of fact I am most likely the dumbest one in here. I have an older camera FinePix S3000 Fujifilm that I picked up used years ago. Suddendly after joining this site I was pleased as how I was learning how to do this and that. I even had the snow ( gray color solved). However after awhile for some reason my settings changed and the pictures were not what I wanted and now I am unable to get back to setting the camera how I want it. I am not asking for any support or how to's but am just repling to how one can not set to the proper spec's. So I will read and read again and perhaps it will come back to me. I really like your last shot.
Buddy 36
Jan 16, 2012 13:41:43 #
photogrl57 wrote:
I was adjusting it to get the histogram right ... I had a different setting for each shot while I was adjusting
All these are straight out of the camera .. no editing except to resize
The last shot of the windmill was exactly what the sky looked like today
All these are straight out of the camera .. no editing except to resize
The last shot of the windmill was exactly what the sky looked like today
If this shot was exactly what the sky looked like, why would you expect the histogram to be expanded to the white side of the graph? If there isn't any white in the picture, don't expect the histogram to extend into the white. Not every picture has white in it and not every picture has black in it.
Jan 16, 2012 13:43:12 #
photogrl57 wrote:
quote=Stumptowner quote=photogrl57 As you can se... (show quote)
If you go to either B&H Photo or Adorama and do a search it will show you what they are. Essentially, they are gray cards which when they are held in front of the camera will allow you to calculate correct exposure. The purpose of photographing one when "in the field" using the same reflected light as your subject is to give you a reference point to adjust color balance when you do your PP. They will greatly reduce the time it takes to get the "correct" color balance. I say "correct" because there are times when you want to change the color balance for your own aesthetic/artistic reasons. You can also use them to custom white balance when out shooting.
Jan 16, 2012 13:48:18 #
photogrl57 wrote:
quote=Stumptowner quote=photogrl57 As you can se... (show quote)
The 18% gray card is used for setting the proper exposure for the current lighting situation. You can buy them at a camera store - cost more than I think they are worth. Or you can use the substitute that I read about years ago in a photography magazine article. Everyone has the substitute for a 18% gray card in the palm of their hand. (Makes no difference on ethnic background). Just meter it in the light situation and you will get the setting that that light condition calls for to achieve a balanced photo. This will work for black & white or color.
Jan 16, 2012 14:02:39 #
One Jughead wrote:
quote=photogrl57 quote=Stumptowner quote=photog... (show quote)
They may also be used as a reference point for color balance in PP. For this use, the hand doesn't work-- (unless the hand is 18% gray !)
:) :)
Jan 16, 2012 14:14:19 #
photocat
Loc: Atlanta, Ga
or blue sky, green grass.
The light meter in your camera is made to read reflecive light which is based on 18% gray. It is clueless to the real color, only the amount of light reflecting from the subject.
If you use an incident light meter (which aren't the type in camera) then it "reads" the light falling on the subject matter. You will get a different reading from the same object using a reflective meter vs an incident meter.'
The light meter in your camera is made to read reflecive light which is based on 18% gray. It is clueless to the real color, only the amount of light reflecting from the subject.
If you use an incident light meter (which aren't the type in camera) then it "reads" the light falling on the subject matter. You will get a different reading from the same object using a reflective meter vs an incident meter.'
Jan 16, 2012 21:22:44 #
Remember me asking you about your high ISO on your moonshot? Back in my film days,and I think the digital settings should pretty much mimic film,we always used ASA(ISO) 100...or even lower if we could find it for outdoor daylight shooting.I really can't wrap my head around why you want to shoot high ISO in daylight.
Jan 17, 2012 00:16:07 #
Stumptowner wrote:
quote=One Jughead quote=photogrl57 quote=Stumpt... (show quote)
That's what the article said - the palm of your hand is the equivalent to an 18% gray card. Since you would be metering the light through the camera and using the palm for a reference, it would represent the same light value as an 18% gray card.
Jan 17, 2012 00:17:02 #
Jan 17, 2012 00:21:06 #
photogrl57 wrote:
My hair is 30% grey lol does that count
Probably if you get all of the grey together and then adjust to about 1/2 of what it suggests you use. Just don't leave it hanging over the lens or you won't get a good picture. :-)
Jan 17, 2012 00:21:41 #
One Jughead wrote:
Probably if you get all of the grey together and then adjust to about 1/2 of what it suggests you use. Just don't leave it hanging over the lens or you won't get a good picture. :-)
photogrl57 wrote:
My hair is 30% grey lol does that count
Probably if you get all of the grey together and then adjust to about 1/2 of what it suggests you use. Just don't leave it hanging over the lens or you won't get a good picture. :-)
LOL
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