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Dec 7, 2011 13:26:48   #
Canoe50d
 
Thank you all for such great info. Glad to see there is more then one way to skin a fish. Lets me know I haven't been doing wrong and keeps me growing as a photographer. I agree with a few that said they start with composition first. After reading, I find that I do the same. Looking forward to the next time I am able to get out with camera in hand and see if I can apply what I have read. Thanks again.

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Dec 7, 2011 13:27:57   #
Canoe50d
 
This is the 2nd time I have been told about this book. Click and it's on order now. Thanks

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Dec 7, 2011 13:29:35   #
nyweb2001
 
I don't think there IS a right or wrong way to approach photography ! Whatever you're used to and what works out best for YOU is the right way !

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Dec 7, 2011 13:45:24   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
Canoe50d wrote:
This is the 2nd time I have been told about this book. Click and it's on order now. Thanks


You won't be disappointed....trust me.

And there are videos online that go along with each concept in the book to illustrate what Bryan talks about.

There are directions in the book on where to go to view them.

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Dec 7, 2011 14:22:38   #
robert-photos Loc: Chicago
 
jackinkc wrote:
EdAnderson wrote:
The choices depend upon the subject and how you desire to portray it. I was taught to select the lowest ISO that will give you the exposure settings you want. If your subject is moving and you want to stop it, choose a relatively faster shutter speed, then set the aperture to give a properly exposed image. If your subject demands greater depth of field, close down the aperture and choose a relatively slower shutter speed.

I try to select an ISO for the prevailing light conditions, then work with aperture/shutter speed combinations to produce what I think I want in the image. The only magic combination of the three exposure elements is the one that produces the image you wish to capture.
The choices depend upon the subject and how you de... (show quote)

I agree with this post. I normally set my ISO at 100 or 200 and then never vary it except in special circumstances. After setting the ISO, we have only to work with f/stop and shutter speed.
quote=EdAnderson The choices depend upon the subj... (show quote)


I disagree as the ISO setting should be the last parameter in this situation which is a dimly lighted church. Shutter speed is primary to obtain sharp photos, aperture secondary for DOF. If you set your ISO too low or first you lose control of DOF and your photos may blur due to camera shake and subject motion.

For film you would be correct since you do not have the ability to easily change film speed once it is loaded in the camera but you would select that film based on anticipated lighting and motion.

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Dec 7, 2011 14:25:18   #
ebaribeault Loc: Baltimore
 
Roger Hicks wrote:
Depends.

(1) Lower ISO normally means better quality so use the slowest film or set the lowest ISO you can get away with.

(2) How much depth of field do you need? That determines aperture. Well, that and shooting at middling apertures for maximum sharpness.

(3) Any risk of camera shake or subject movement? Use a higher shutter speed. Unless you actually want blur for creative reasons.

(4) With (2) and (3) in mind, change (1).

Cheers,

R.


I follow this advice

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Dec 7, 2011 14:26:24   #
nyweb2001
 
Speaking of Bryan Peterson, if you go to Adorama.com and look around, you'll find all kinds of videos featuring Bryan explaining things ! He's a good photographer and teacher and he explains things in an easy to understand manner !

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Dec 7, 2011 15:05:59   #
EdAnderson Loc: Hanover, PA
 
robert-photos wrote:
jackinkc wrote:
EdAnderson wrote:
The choices depend upon the subject and how you desire to portray it. I was taught to select the lowest ISO that will give you the exposure settings you want. If your subject is moving and you want to stop it, choose a relatively faster shutter speed, then set the aperture to give a properly exposed image. If your subject demands greater depth of field, close down the aperture and choose a relatively slower shutter speed.

I try to select an ISO for the prevailing light conditions, then work with aperture/shutter speed combinations to produce what I think I want in the image. The only magic combination of the three exposure elements is the one that produces the image you wish to capture.
The choices depend upon the subject and how you de... (show quote)

I agree with this post. I normally set my ISO at 100 or 200 and then never vary it except in special circumstances. After setting the ISO, we have only to work with f/stop and shutter speed.
quote=EdAnderson The choices depend upon the subj... (show quote)


I disagree as the ISO setting should be the last parameter in this situation which is a dimly lighted church. Shutter speed is primary to obtain sharp photos, aperture secondary for DOF. If you set your ISO too low or first you lose control of DOF and your photos may blur due to camera shake and subject motion.

For film you would be correct since you do not have the ability to easily change film speed once it is loaded in the camera but you would select that film based on anticipated lighting and motion.
quote=jackinkc quote=EdAnderson The choices depe... (show quote)


Church? What church? Where? Honest, Officer, I didn't even see any church. The post to which I responded asked for ideas on selecting expopsure parameters in manual mode. I did not see a reference to a specific subject or type.

Frankly, I continue to believe that ISO choice, based on the scene/subject, guides the selection of both aperture and shutter speed, again depending upon the priority of the photographer's desire(s) for the final image. With a tripod, for instance, shutter speed is taken out of the camera shake equation. In your dimly lit church scenario, why would you not use a tripod or other camera support?

In the 20 years I worked as a commercial/ industrial photographer, I don't recall ever not changing film/ISO to meet the demands of the subject, if it lead to a better image. Sheets or rolls, they can all be unloaded prior to exposure if need be, again in pursuit of the best quality obtainable under prevailing conditions.

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Dec 7, 2011 16:19:08   #
jokescache1 Loc: SW Utah
 
Canoe50d wrote:
I've read both here and in books that understanding exposure, shutter and ISO is the key to good photography. Ok, I get that but..... When getting set to compose a photo what, of the three do you set or look at first. In your own words, could you share how you approach getting set for a photo. Of the three , in what order do you set and does this change often and if so, why. I am spending more time getting those three stuck in my head and find if I start with exposure and work from there it helps. For this practice lets assume we are shooting in M mode. Thanks in advance.
I've read both here and in books that understandin... (show quote)


what type camera are you using??I shoot with pentax[x-70],so can only reference it.in programs I set it for lowest range of ISO[100-800].I judge the light available and set speed[does take experience].when I see something to shoot,I compose the pic/focus/shoot... if you are taking[or have] your time then,compose the pic you want check your light meter/set the camera to what is required/focus--shoot..many cameras will only allow one/or two settings to be actual 'manual',and the rest is done by camera anyway.
hope this helps give you an idea..you need the readings[light] on the pic you want,then the rest of the settings..---joe

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Dec 7, 2011 18:00:23   #
Mwendell
 
That is a big question because everyone is different, and we often handle the same subject or same problem in a different way.
This is just a sudgestion, but I believe you'll learn faster, go farther, and become much better at photography if you study and learn from the experts, then you can develope your own style. This is not only very self gratifying, but you won't even think twice about how to set-up for any and all situations.

The best book I've ever read that covers all of your questions and more is,"Understanding Exposures", by Bryan Peterson.
After you read this, and you really want to have some fun as well as puting into practice what you learned from the previous book, I sugest you read another one of his books called, "Understanding Shutter Speeds"

Bryan Peterson is not only an exceptual photographer, but an excellent writer as well.
If you learn what you are seeking from reading, studying and trial and error, the next time you face a situation where you need to know what to do first and you need to know it fast, it will come to you like magic, that's if you spend your time learning it now, on your own.

Don't get me wrong, the members of this Forum are a wealth of information and I ask them questions all the time, but this is one where I think you need to do most of the leg work, rather than have someone tell you what button to push, because the next time your at a photo shoot I can guarantee that the settings will be different because of the ever changing Mother Nature amongst other things beyond our control. In other words you'll need to start with a whole new set of settings.
Good luck with your journey.

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Dec 7, 2011 18:06:50   #
robert-photos Loc: Chicago
 
Quote:
Church? What church? Where? Honest, Officer, I didn't even see any church. The post to which I responded asked for ideas on selecting expopsure parameters in manual mode. I did not see a reference to a specific subject or type.

Frankly, I continue to believe that ISO choice, based on the scene/subject, guides the selection of both aperture and shutter speed, again depending upon the priority of the photographer's desire(s) for the final image. With a tripod, for instance, shutter speed is taken out of the camera shake equation. In your dimly lit church scenario, why would you not use a tripod or other camera support?

In the 20 years I worked as a commercial/ industrial photographer, I don't recall ever not changing film/ISO to meet the demands of the subject, if it lead to a better image. Sheets or rolls, they can all be unloaded prior to exposure if need be, again in pursuit of the best quality obtainable under prevailing conditions.
Church? What church? Where? Honest, Officer, I ... (show quote)


My bad, I've been following two threads with relatively the same theme and obviously confused them, so sorry to have imparted my confusion on you.

That doesn't change the crux of my statements.

Simplistically, for good, sharp photos there is the obvious.....composition and focus which you control.

That leaves the three other factors being discussed here: shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Which , then is most important for a sharp photograph?

I say that you must start with shutter speed to either freeze the frame, impart motion or create a desired effect.

Next is aperture which gives you a desired depth of field.

Last is ISO which allows you to set the first two. With todays better digital cameras and post process noise reduction software digital noise is a lesser problem.

In answer to your suggestion of using a tripod in church, that is well and good for set shots but not so for run and gun. Also, during ceremonies, it is often hazardous to occupy an aisle with a tripod. I've attempted to use a monopod but that is cumbersome and still did not solve the moving subject problem. Carrying two bodies with a 24-70mm and a 70-200mm adds another dimension of difficulty to shleping a tripod or monopod. The solution, for me, is to set my ISO high enough first so that I have the ability to adjust my aperture and shutter speed as desired on the fly.

Experience as a commercial/industrial photographer where you have time to evaluate the scene, meter the lighting, recompose, etc colors your response just as my experience doing events and having to make instant decisions colors mine. Both of us are right in the given circumstances.

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Dec 7, 2011 18:09:11   #
Canoe50d
 
I shoot with a Canon 50d and a Canon T2i. I prefer to shoot in full M mode for the most part. I shoot 95% wildlife and nature. Never people (just don't like them) lol.

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Dec 7, 2011 18:17:32   #
jokescache1 Loc: SW Utah
 
Canoe50d wrote:
I shoot with a Canon 50d and a Canon T2i. I prefer to shoot in full M mode for the most part. I shoot 95% wildlife and nature. Never people (just don't like them) lol.


can't quote canons.. but for rest of your statment--AHMEN.-joe

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Dec 8, 2011 04:10:30   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
I second the suggestion to get Bryan Peterson's book. It will answer a lot of questions.

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Dec 8, 2011 08:50:51   #
EdAnderson Loc: Hanover, PA
 
robert-photos wrote:
Quote:
Church? What church? Where? Honest, Officer, I didn't even see any church. The post to which I responded asked for ideas on selecting expopsure parameters in manual mode. I did not see a reference to a specific subject or type.

Frankly, I continue to believe that ISO choice, based on the scene/subject, guides the selection of both aperture and shutter speed, again depending upon the priority of the photographer's desire(s) for the final image. With a tripod, for instance, shutter speed is taken out of the camera shake equation. In your dimly lit church scenario, why would you not use a tripod or other camera support?

In the 20 years I worked as a commercial/ industrial photographer, I don't recall ever not changing film/ISO to meet the demands of the subject, if it lead to a better image. Sheets or rolls, they can all be unloaded prior to exposure if need be, again in pursuit of the best quality obtainable under prevailing conditions.
Church? What church? Where? Honest, Officer, I ... (show quote)


My bad, I've been following two threads with relatively the same theme and obviously confused them, so sorry to have imparted my confusion on you.

That doesn't change the crux of my statements.

Simplistically, for good, sharp photos there is the obvious.....composition and focus which you control.

That leaves the three other factors being discussed here: shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Which , then is most important for a sharp photograph?

I say that you must start with shutter speed to either freeze the frame, impart motion or create a desired effect.

Next is aperture which gives you a desired depth of field.

Last is ISO which allows you to set the first two. With todays better digital cameras and post process noise reduction software digital noise is a lesser problem.

In answer to your suggestion of using a tripod in church, that is well and good for set shots but not so for run and gun. Also, during ceremonies, it is often hazardous to occupy an aisle with a tripod. I've attempted to use a monopod but that is cumbersome and still did not solve the moving subject problem. Carrying two bodies with a 24-70mm and a 70-200mm adds another dimension of difficulty to shleping a tripod or monopod. The solution, for me, is to set my ISO high enough first so that I have the ability to adjust my aperture and shutter speed as desired on the fly.

Experience as a commercial/industrial photographer where you have time to evaluate the scene, meter the lighting, recompose, etc colors your response just as my experience doing events and having to make instant decisions colors mine. Both of us are right in the given circumstances.
quote Church? What church? Where? Honest, Offi... (show quote)


Robert,
I do appreciate your approach and your comments. I would agree that each of us works with the method that makes the most sense given individual circumstances. But even in your own words, "The solution, for me, is to set my ISO high enough first so that I have the ability to adjust my aperture and shutter speed as desired on the fly." My point exactly. Based on experience, we select a sensitivity to match the circumstances, then work shutter/aperture from there.

I must clarify to you, however, that as a photographer, I shot just about anything and everything. Yes, I did a lot of studio work (mostly 4X5 and 8X10), but also photographed NFL and MLB games, Indy car races, architecture, events, etc. I used every tool I could get my hands on - always to improve my final product. Do you not rely on your camera's meter? Do you not look through the viewfinder and compose/reframe focus/refocus and adjust your exposure based on the circumstances? I don't know what your experience with Commercial/Industrial photographers may have been, but the feeling I get from your comments is not consistent with my experience, having worked in the profession for 20 years.

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