Just clicked over to your website. :-O

My goodness Warren! You appear to make a habit of capturing spectacular shots. Traveling Down Under to study under you - is now on my bucket list.

Thanks for your reply Bill.

That's an excellent rig!

And what a nice set of photos. I'd be happy for just ONE photo of that quality! :)

All very nice!

About how far were you from your subjects? Also lens and settings used?

I've been trying to photograph Red Tailed hawks. But can't seem to get close enough to get the amazing detail you have captured here.

Thanks!

I do a lot of shooting in low light. On a dark stage setting with actors, colored light and a black background. I shot for a few years with my D750 and was able to get some excellent photos in these settings, but my D850 is head and shoulders better in low light (less noise, better detail). It pulls things out of the darkness that my unaided eyes can't see. The detail it captures in darkness, from the balcony (with a 200-500mm f/5.6) continues to surprise.

Very happy with it. Rent one, borrow one and see for yourself.

Amazing photo!

I don't quite get the problems folks have with Seagate. I see the reviews, and have heard the stories. But -

I collected movies for over a decade and chose to use Seagate 1TB drives as my primary, master storage medium.

I've purchased 80-100, Seagate 1TB drives over the course of eight years or so. For online storage; 20+ 2TB, 10+ 3TB, eight 4TB and five 8 TB. All Seagate. We have three home media computers that have run 24/7 for years. The latest has four, 8TB drives and an extenal 8 drive (cheap-ie Sans Digital) SATA tower full of 4TB drives. Haven't seen a single failure (which is kind of crazy, I know).

Only problem I've ever had was when a Microsoft Update rendered my MBR inaccessible, the result of an ASUS BIOS issue with that update (grrrrrrr).

Some of my earlier Seagate 2TB drives were susceptible to vibration/noise being transmitted mechanically through their chassis mounts. i.e. cooling fan vibrations would cause the drives to hunt and click excessively. But I discovered turning down the fan speed made this problem go away (I finally shock mounted the fan(s) on rubber grommets which fixed the problem at all speeds)...

But I also used WD in years prior and had excellent luck with them,, as well as HGST. So go figure. Perhaps I should start buying lottery tickets. ?

;)

Yup!

I've been "lusting over" the new 24-70mm f2.8e VR for several weeks now myself. Is DEFINITELY what I will eventually have for my D850. But it's a $2400 piece of glass.

Although early reviews fault it for being "softer" than its predecessor. This isn't entirely accurate. Center frame at close distance, it is a bit softer. But is head and shoulders better mid frame and corners as well as further away. All in all a superior landscape and nature lens (with the G being best for closeup portrait work). I *WILL* own one - just still nursing my "financial wounds" from the purchase of the d850 body. Meanwhile the '850 is the happy home of my Nikkor 200-500mm f5.6. The 850 is so fast and quiet! That combo (sans mono-pod) is great for birding!

Love my Nikon 24-120 f4.

Got it with the 750 but also swap it to the new 850. Sharp lens and focus is so quick! I've lost count the number of times I've popped it to my eye and shot candids. It never ceases to amaze how sharp and focused, most of those photos turn out.

Have taken it to Alaska and Disney. Light, small and easy to use. It's my "go to" for sure!

Sorry, can't comment on the Tamron since I haven't used it.

Actually, many of the early reviews were "skewed". Some of the early reviews only tested the new Nikkor in the center, at close range. The new Nikon 24-70 is a bit softer there. But EVERYWHERE else, it is a monster. Corners and mid frame are much sharper. So if you are doing studio portrait work, the old one is better. But for wildlife, nature, sports the new one is a big improvement.

Overall my go-to reviewer gave it 4.5 stars with dings for Bokeh and Handling.

As mentioned above, this sure sounds like the PWM dimming. If there is a brightness adjustment on the LEDs, try turning them up all the way (full brightness).

Different LED controlers achieve PWM dimming using different base frequencies. Many use 120Hz which easily interferes with 60Hz video cams (as well as your shutter at "typical" indoor speeds). I searched high and low to find the D4-XE controller for my last LED lighting project, it uses a selectable 500Hz/2000Hz multiplex frequency. Works great for most indoor shutter speeds. You can get one here if you are able to swap the controller on your LED lights:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-CH-CV-MX512-RDM-Decoder-4-CH-CC-DMX512-RDM-Decoder-with-digital-display-DMX512/32838929657.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.40.5817721foJECzZ

It works with standard RGB or RGBW LED tape/strings and even includes DMX functionality. At $25 its a low risk investment. ;-)

Some nice shots there.

Did you mention (didn't see) which lens(es)?

Hello All,

I'm new here so I'm not sure if it's "ok" to include these links (or not). Sometimes the consensus in a forum can "lean" more (or less) to individuals elsewhere. I hope I don't start a "flame war" here in my first post.

Along with this site, there is one other I watch quite a bit. I have come to very much admire Nasim and he has a tutorial here about resizing images in LR That (I think) is quite good. He also addresses the difference between "resizing" and "down-sampling" (among other things).

Offered in hopes it will be of use:

https://photographylife.com/how-to-properly-resize-images-in-lightroom

'sig