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Jan 2, 2019 16:00:29   #
PHRubin wrote:
Does DPP4 have a red-eye remover?

I'm trying to learn DPP4 since I have it and it seems interesting. I don't understand why they disable brightness and such for JPGs. The older Zoombrowser seems to be able to do much more with JPGs. They can't expect you to use both, Zoombrowser doesn't come with newer cameras.


The Brightness is disabled on one pallet, but available the the tone curve adjustment. I think, not sure, but most new Canon Camera's have a feature for Red Eye Reduction. Maybe their assumption is that everyone should have a new camera. I switched to LR a few years back and rarely use DPP. But when its free.... GL
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Dec 10, 2018 08:36:43   #
Don't shovel. Take more pictures. Will be gone soon
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Nov 2, 2018 08:24:19   #
Check with the MFG of your camera and use that SW to start. Nikon and Canon both have decent software to use and it is free and so are upgrades. Can't speak for the other mfg's but I would surmise that they do this also.
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Aug 31, 2018 06:52:53   #
Look like brothers to me :)
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Aug 1, 2018 07:35:36   #
THe above comments will work best if the photo is in RAW format. the edits work with JPG, but not as much or as well. Also every time you save the JPG with the same name your are loosing resolution in the picture. Also use the histogram and watch what those adjustments do. This will help also of learning to read the histogram and where adjustments are made first. GL
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Jun 15, 2018 07:07:23   #
Camera , don't have a pellet rifle or gun. Outside near the door, hell with windows. Grab a few apples to get his attention. :)
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Jun 6, 2018 07:19:25   #
LOL at many of the above comments. I have 4k on my laptop that I use for photo editing and viewing. It provides more precise ability to edit, what I do have. Sharpness make a difference when you sell enlargements, which I do. So MHO, depending on your eyes, and those still listening to AM radio, it could be a waste of time. But for the most part, 4k TV are here and not much more than the standard HD. But you will see the difference if you have a 4k source. There's my 2 cents
GL
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May 18, 2018 07:52:29   #
So with all the comments above, do back these up as Ex HD are USUALLY low end drives. But this sounds more like a MAC operator issue. You have not lost your pictures, just have not found the right button to use on the MAC Folder options. In the finder, there are several ways to see file/folders/drives. I used to use the multipage view options, that showed the Drive/folder on the left side and files of the selected folder on the right side. I cannot show this cause I am on a Win machine, but same approach. If your are having issues after a few tries, ask someone under 40 that has a MAC to help. Watch what they are doing, for that is real video training. GL
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May 18, 2018 07:36:22   #
Did your camera come with a CD, try using the SW that came with the camera. If is is a DSLR then really check the CD or download from the MFG site. They usually include SW to do this and more. GL
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May 18, 2018 07:34:16   #
Well not everyone is a photographer, but they are at least picture takers. Just cause you have $5k in camera equipment does not mean you know how to take pictures. I take car racing pictures, and just like cars, just cause you have a fast car does not improve your ability to drive at fast speeds. :)
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May 18, 2018 07:23:25   #
The word NEED depends on the application and result your looking for. Several good suggestions above about the CPL filter. Buy a good one, and not the cheap ones. I have that lens and use my ND filters along with the CPL filters to capture a more shallow DOF while also slowing down the shutter speed. I do this for car racing. It is useful when wanting to show movement and shallow DOF in sports and movement photos. So I need them, but only in specific photos. Most of the time, the filter sides in my bag.
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Mar 3, 2018 13:07:22   #
fotoman150 wrote:
Which is better Raw or jpg?

Sorry I couldn't resist.


How bout a RAW JPG. Should cover all bases
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Mar 3, 2018 13:06:36   #
Joe Blow wrote:
Oh, definitely chunky peanut better.


No Smooth is better, cause I put nuts on afterwards. :)
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Mar 3, 2018 13:00:10   #
I'll add to the mess. Some good comments above, and some just funny.
1. You can get more adaptive ISO range on a DLSR, even the low end unts, than you ever could in Film. You cannot think Film ISO anymore, complete change, but the concept is still the same. Low ISO is slow and high ISO is faster. But start shooting RAW and in the post processing workflow, improt presets or create a match that is the same as the old film types and apply to all photos of your choice. There are much more options in DSLR today that you shake a stick at.
2. Yes the old toys are antiques now, and should be retired and but up for show or in a box.
3. Watch some YouTube examples, and then go shoot. With your film experince, you will start using your old techniques and tricks to apply to Digital and see your pictures NOW, not when developed. No cost to delete photos. And with software you can learn from your photos, because you can now see all the settings of the photos inside each shot. With film you had to write down each setting for each shot of just never knew. You can review and learn from your shots now, even 2 weeks later when you forgot all about what setting your camera was set to.
4. learn how to use the Quick setting on the camera for many basic settings, like ISO, White Balance, Shutter Speed, F Stop, and others. I can see my changes right in the view finder as I change things.
5.Foget the question. Just buy a new camera. No one is going to retrofit anything. Ever see a 55 Chevy get air conditioning put in it. Don't see them around much either.
Good luck and explore the new things with digital that you never could in Film and Learn about RAW and post processing.
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Mar 3, 2018 12:33:49   #
Ok I'll take the first shot at this. There are lots of good cameras out there, of many mfg also. So not knowing your present situation like existing cameras and skill set, it would be hard to make specific recommendations. Do you want a DSLR (like old 35 mm Film), Prosumer (Good all in one point and shoot) or Mirrorless lens (fairly new on market). Also budget will have much to do with suggestions from all who post. Low budget, we would point you to used cameras, and there are many great used cameras and lens out there. I do buy used and shot professionally, so you just have to be cautious on that. Budget not a concert, to some extent, then the the options are your desert. What type of photography is your interest? People/Nature/Low action could be one catagory, fast action sports and nature shots could be another, then there is the everything category. We most cameras will do ok in all areas, but the lens is what will be more important. The best shots are usually gotten with better lens. Not to say you cannot get a great shot with low end lenses, just that with more expensive lens, better pictures will come. Higher priced lenses are made of better glass, should have better seals around the device to keep dirt and moisture out. Very important. And less distortion of color and depth in the photo. GL

Al

So here goes.1 Figure on a budget;,2 Get the same mfg camera body so lens can be interchanged,3 Put 60% or more of the budget in lenses,4. Plan on a tripod and maybe a monopod, a flash , some Cir Polarizer and UV filters, a camera case, extra batteries to start add to the budget. And last do you want a DSLR, a mirrorless cameras or just a Prosummer that might have everything together in 1 device. Nothing wrong with Prosumer camera, I used on for Diving for years and some car racing. Come back to all of use with more information, and we can get more specific. And remember, you only get what you pay for, but good used equipment cost much less.
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