Last night I was surfing EBay and saw an auction of a refurbished Sony a7iii with a 28-70 2.8 lens up for bid from a dealer. I bid $1725.00 and am currently the highest bidder with only 6.5 hours left.

Never thinking that I would be highest bidder, this GAS attack now has me with several cameras...I want to keep my Nikon D7500 since it has been my go to camera for a few years and I have a full range of lenses for it.

I also have a Canon EOS m5 that is in excellent condition with three lenses: 15-45; 18-150;and 55-200. I use this camera for travel and really enjoy it, but now that I may be the winner of a Sony a7iii full frame, the Canon seems to be the one to go....

Here is the problem Adorama, KEH and B&H will take the Canon gear in trade for a pittance (literally pennies on the dollar)....Would like to make a bit of money on the Canon sale to offset a small portion of the price of the Sony...any suggestions for places to sell this gear?

TIA

I have a dilemma regarding this program. Many years ago I purchased this program and while I only use it once in a while, I have had both my desktop and laptop crash over the last few months. They are both back up and running but when I load the above program it needs a 15 digit serial and as all my emails from 2019 and back are now gone I can't get my serial. The company has discontinued this program and there is no way to retrieve my serial number. I have run several searches but all I get is virus infected responses that do not supply a legit serial. Does anyone have a way to obtain a working serial number? Preferably without viruses, malware, spam-ware etc. You can pm me if you wish. Thanks gang.

I have a P7800. The lens aperture goes from f2 at the short end to f4 at the long end. Really this is good for a pocket camera. But it does not have the high ISO capability of a good DSLR. Remember your P7800 also has a built in flash. It also has a hot shoe so you could add (if permitted in your venue) a flash to cover any lighting need. DSLR choices will require that you first need to establish a budget for both the body and the initial lens purchase. I have 3 DSLRs but have kept the P7800 as a good pocket camera. DSLRs offer a plethora of lenses which can lead to GAS.

Yes, you are a bit mistaken. You are conflating aperture with focal length, and while they are related the issue you describe has to do with the kind of multi-focal-length (i.e. - zoom) lens your camera has.

The exposure triangle, as it is called, relates only to proper exposure of the film or chip, and consists of just chip sensitivity (ISO), aperture and shutter speed. For a given ISO setting in a given lighting scenario (without augmenting the light using flash or floodlights, just to make this simpler) only some combinations of exposure time (shutter speed) and light passing through the lens (aperture) will provide the desired exposure. As the terminology of aperture and shutter speeds works with "halves and doubles" a 1 second exposure at f22 will expose the chip to the same number of photons as will a 1/500ths second exposure at f1.4. You can intuit that the latter will allow for "freezing" action while the former will likely cause blurry results unless the camera is on a tripod. Less intuitive is the depth of field increase that increases as the aperture is smaller (for a given focal length lens).

So that's the basic concept of exposure. What you are describing is, as has been mentioned, the downside of a zoom lens that is not constant aperture - but not all zooms are this way. Constant aperture zooms are more complex (and generally larger) than their variable-aperture counterparts; thus you generally see them referred to as "professional" lenses with high price tags. But point and shoot cameras like yours do not have this kind of lens, as that would make it 3 times larger and much more expensive.

The effects that zooming the lens makes on the final image, assuming the aperture is the same (et's say f5.6 for the thought experiment) is the apparent magnification which could lead to blurry results. That is, at the wide angle setting things seem far enough away that a shutter speed of, say, 1/60th second will "freeze" the motion of moving subjects. But zoom in to the maximum telephoto setting and the subject is now magnified in the scene, and to freeze that same action will require a faster shutter speed.

I hope that helps - you can search here for "exposure triangle" and see more detailed and graphical explanations of the ISO/shutter speed/aperture balancing act. But it sounds as though your camera simply is not up to the job you are trying to accomplish - not enough light in the room for a proper exposure at an ISO setting of 800 at the f5.6 maximum aperture of which your lens is capable.

Yes, you are a bit mistaken. You are conflating aperture with focal length, and while they are related the issue you describe has to do with the kind of multi-focal-length (i.e. - zoom) lens your camera has.

The exposure triangle, as it is called, relates only to proper exposure of the film or chip, and consists of just chip sensitivity (ISO), aperture and shutter speed. For a given ISO setting in a given lighting scenario (without augmenting the light using flash or floodlights, just to make this simpler) only some combinations of exposure time (shutter speed) and light passing through the lens (aperture) will provide the desired exposure. As the terminology of aperture and shutter speeds works with "halves and doubles" a 1 second exposure at f22 will expose the chip to the same number of photons as will a 1/500ths second exposure at f1.4. You can intuit that the latter will allow for "freezing" action while the former will likely cause blurry results unless the camera is on a tripod. Less intuitive is the depth of field increase that increases as the aperture is smaller (for a given focal length lens).

So that's the basic concept of exposure. What you are describing is, as has been mentioned, the downside of a zoom lens that is not constant aperture - but not all zooms are this way. Constant aperture zooms are more complex (and generally larger) than their variable-aperture counterparts; thus you generally see them referred to as "professional" lenses with high price tags. But point and shoot cameras like yours do not have this kind of lens, as that would make it 3 times larger and much more expensive.

The effects that zooming the lens makes on the final image, assuming the aperture is the same (et's say f5.6 for the thought experiment) is the apparent magnification which could lead to blurry results. That is, at the wide angle setting things seem far enough away that a shutter speed of, say, 1/60th second will "freeze" the motion of moving subjects. But zoom in to the maximum telephoto setting and the subject is now magnified in the scene, and to freeze that same action will require a faster shutter speed.

I hope that helps - you can search here for "exposure triangle" and see more detailed and graphical explanations of the ISO/shutter speed/aperture balancing act. But it sounds as though your camera simply is not up to the job you are trying to accomplish - not enough light in the room for a proper exposure at an ISO setting of 800 at the f5.6 maximum aperture of which your lens is capable.