I'm a big fan of Monument Valley. From 4 corners to Moab/Arches/Canyonlands is less than 200 miles, and going by way of Monument Valley pushes it over 200. Where will you be coming from? Albuquerque? Grand Junction? SLC? Phoenix? Vegas? Some of the places mentioned will be on your way depending on your route.

Spring, fall or winter is the time to go. Summer will be hot and crowded. Snow in some places will make for great photos.

Or if you mean cool, literally, up into the mountains.

Maybe Joshua Tree

You need to decide what to expose for. Do you want the sun to be a ball, or do you want it blown out? Do you even want it in the frame, or do you juts want the colorful sky? Do you care if there is detail in the foreground, or as been suggested, do you want silhouettes? I've gotten good results exposing for the sky, not including the sun. I've also gotten good results exposing for the foreground, and underexposing by two or three stops and keeping a little detail. And remember, the light changes, and the exposure changes, almost by the minute. Also, the best color may be fifteen minutes after the sun goes down, or even more.

These are actually sunrises, but the principle is the same.

Google Rebel T6 vs D3400 and you will find a few detailed comparisons. Many will tell you to go to a camera store and handle them. this might make sense for some people but not for me. If you're new to DSLR photography it will take days to really learn the camera. A few minutes in a store isn't enough. Even renting for a day may not be enough, and in a store you risk getting pushed into what they want to sell.

I ride a Specialized hybrid mostly on paved roads. I haven't tried riding with my DSLR - I have my SONY RX100.

I have a point and shoot 20MP Sony RX100 for about $500. I felt I needed something better so I bought a Canon D80 with 18-135MM zoom, refurb direct from Canon for about $1200. I did a lot of research on camera comparisons, I could have spent more for better lenses or a larger sensor (full frame) or more MegaPixels to get sharper pictures that could be printed larger. I did spend more on features - articulating screen, fast continuous shooting, many autofocus points, weatherproof.

I learned a few things. Three months later I'm still learning to use all the things the camera can do. I'm not sure all the features have a lot of value for me. I'm also not sure the lack of better glass or full frame or more megapixels matters either. But, as I've learned about the camera, and discovered features like HDR, or JPG + RAW, I've gone back to my SONY and found it could do the same things!

I will keep the SONY - it fits in my pocket and can easily go everywhere. So, my advice is, buy something like my SONY - I'm sure there are better ones today for less than I spent five years or so ago. Then, when you know exactly what you need that it won't do for you, then buy the DSLR that does. and, you won't ever be sorry you also have a really neat camera that fits in your pocket.

Sometimes I take a photograph to "capture a moment." A selfie at a baseball game, a snapshot of my grandkids. Sometimes I take a photograph that I want to be "art." I try to capture something ib a way that you don't normally see it. My goal is to produce something good enough that someone else considers it art. Maybe sell a photograph, or have an exhibition in a gallery. Here are two I've submitted to "Focus 17" this year's photography exhibit by our local arts council.

Both were shot with a Canon Powershot SD550.

I've come to the same conclusion. I remember reading somewhere very simple instructions on how to use digital zoom: turn it off! I suppose the only time to use it is with a smart phone when you want to immediately post on FB or other social media site and won't have a chance to crop, or for video.

Beautiful. Looks like a painting.

DxOmark (https://www.dxomark.com/) rates camera and lens combinations using what they call perceptual megapixels (PMP). Many here will say don't get hung up on the numbers, but it does give a way to compare, for example, a 24 MP full frame with a "cheap" lens with a 16MP crop sensor and top quality lens.

Zabriskie is easy and don't miss Dantes View. You can see mesquite dunes from the road - just a question of how close you get. Haven't been to Racetrack but it's a long trip to get there. Not sure if an ordinary rental car will suffice

I honestly don't know! I was used to manual with a 35mm SLR and then automatic with point and shoot, now that I have a DSLR, I'm still experimenting. M on the DSLR is not quite as convenient as it was on the 35mm, otherwise I'd probably use it all the time.

I think the answer is it depends. On may things. How much time to I have to set up the shot? Do I need to stop action? In low light I may set the shutter to 1/60. Or do I need to control, depth of field? I've learned to shoot automatic, aim at whatever needs to be most properly exposed like a face, press the shutter halfway, and then compose and shoot. Works in some modes, not others and I can never remember which.

I recently upgraded from a Sony RX 100 to a canon 80 D. Mainly used the Sony as a point and shoot but did learn to control exposure in automatic mode by aiming at what I wanted to expose for, pressing shutter halfway, and then composing. But I never took full advantage of what that camera could do until I got the Canon, read the manual, and said gee, wonder if the Sony can do that too. Often it could. The Sony is a great camera 20 MP, shoots RAW and fits in my pocket. I'm sure newer ones are even better.

I bought a refurb 80D from Canon in December. Came in Canon box looked new. New camera warranty. Works great.