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Jul 22, 2015 05:36:15   #
legion3 wrote:
Traveling to the Watkins Glen Area in the beginning of August can anyone suggest must see attractions in the area. Also any suggestion in the near by area. THANKS


If you are staying on the west side of Seneca Lake, go down to the lake front in Watkins Glen for the sunrise. If you are staying on the east side, go to the lake front for the sunset. In each case, shoot across the lake with a nice foreground and the sun rising/setting in the background. There is a nice lake front (on the west side of Seneca Lake) in Geneva with a pier. I have seen (and shot) cranes at the end of the pier at sunrise. Because the lakes are the low spots, there are many nice vistas that can be shot, looking down at the lakes, from the hills that rise up from the lakes. Along Rt 14 between Watkins Glen and Geneva, there are many vineyards that offer wonderful shots across the lake looking towards the lake with the vineyards in the foreground. Same for the West Lake Road along Seneca Lake. Also, this time of the year, there may be a sailing regatta on one of the lakes. Have fun.
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May 8, 2015 06:41:28   #
BobT wrote:
I just had a thought of maybe trading in my 18mm-ish to 50mm-ish AF zooms for a pair of prime lenses. I have one Canon prime, the 40mm 2.8 which is AF, that can still be manually focused via a focus assist. So I'm fine with that one. But I was considering perhaps a 2nd prime, a manual Rokinon 14mm lens, that does not have that same "focus assist" option as the Canon prime. It's totally manual.
So, for those who deal with this total manual lens, how do you focus it accurately? How's your track record for sharpness? Is that easy to nail?
OR.....is going into this direction, maybe a mistake.
I realize that if I wanted to break the bank, I could get a Canon brand prime with that "assist" capability. But those are a bit too pricey.

Your thoughts on this? Thanks.

Bob
I just had a thought of maybe trading in my 18mm-i... (show quote)


I had always thought that it was necessary to attach an adapter to use any non-EOS manual lens on a Canon EOS body. Is that true? I have not tried this on a Canon EOS body. I understand that some adapters come with the focus chip that chirps when focus has been achieved. Also, in order to focus to infinity, it is necessary that the adapter have an intermediate lens built into it. Without such an intermediate lense, I understand one can focus but only to a limited distance. Is all this true?
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Apr 8, 2015 06:32:08   #
If you use 2 adapters, you will move the lens further away from the sensor. It will likely not focus at all or will not focus to infinity, depending on the lens focal length. It would be best to use only one adapter: OM to EF. I am not sure if that would focus properly, but if things have worked well with other lenses, then it may be okay with the OM to EF adapter. Do your adapters have built-in glass?
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Feb 21, 2015 06:05:54   #
Any suggestions of photo ops in and around Tucson - landscape, architectural, waterfalls, anything? Will be there Late February. Thanks in advance.
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Feb 14, 2015 08:16:27   #
I have the Canon 500D, 77mm. It is a fine close-up add-on. I also bought a step-up ring so that I can use the 500D on a variety of lenses, including 300mm prime lens. Gets close, but not 1:1. Highly recommended by Bryan Peterson in his Close-Up book. Worth the money.
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Dec 16, 2014 04:48:59   #
Swayne wrote:
One of my assistants ruined my USB camera port. It is no longer useable, says Canon. My question is , is there any other way I can connect to my camera to get it to work as if there was a usable USB port?


You can use the Eye-Fi SD card. Set up your 5D so that you send small jpg files to the SD card. Small jpg files will make the transfer of the files to your tablet or computer run faster. Use the CF card for the big (main) files you will use for your work. There is a special Menu setting on the 5D Mark III for the Eye-Fi card, so set up the 5D per your manual. Not sure if earlier versions of the 5D have the special Eye-Fi card menu setting. If you have an earlier 5D, then just follow the Eye-Fi card instructions.

The Eye-Fi card sends out its own wifi signal. Download the Eye-Fi app to your tablet or install the Eye-Fi app that comes with the card to your computer. Set your tablet and computer to connect to the Eye-Fi wifi network. Run the Eye-Fi app and shoot away. Distance between camera and tablet should be as short as possible to get a good transfer. The Eye-Fi web site will tell you how far the card will transmit the signal. I have found it to work fine within the confines of an apartment size studio and with an iPad. Good luck.
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Nov 30, 2014 06:04:09   #
WB wrote:
I'm trying to find the best app to control my Nikon D810 from either my android smart phone or my android tablet.
I've tried both Helicon and Smart Shooter 3. Helicon works on my tablet but not my phone. Smart Shooter has limited controls. Please tell me what works for you. Thanks.


If you can afford it, the CamRanger is excellent, but expensive. Take a look at:

camranger.com
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Nov 11, 2014 04:02:58   #
mwsilvers wrote:
My approach is virtually identical to yours, except that I perform incremental backups to two external hard drives.


Thanks to all. The overwhelming response is to let LR put the catalog in the default location and use just one catalog. Thanks again!!
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Nov 9, 2014 08:44:52   #
I am new to LR 5 and have a question about how folks manage the LR catalog location on the hard drive.

Do you just let LR place the catalog where it wants to put it or do you place it in another location, for example in your photo folder? Any benefits to placing it in the photos folder? I understand the difficulties/problems of moving the catalog once it as been created and used in one location for a while. But if just starting out in LR, where would you recommend putting the catalog?

Do you create a new catalog for each year's batch of photos or use LR, with key word, for example, to find your photos over the years?

I am just curious how others manage the catalog. I know it is possible to launch LR by double clicking on a catalog.
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Sep 7, 2014 17:03:32   #
TGanner wrote:
I am appreciating the feedback ... thank you friends!


I also live in the NC mountains, Ashe County, the northern-most County in NC. The leaves generally are at their peak the third week in October in Ashe County. When traveling north on the Blue Ridge Parkway from Asheville, you will pass through the Craggy Garden area and Mount Mitchell, 2 of the highest areas along the Parkway. The colors may arrive earlier in these locales.

Enjoy the waterfalls in the Brevard area, the fall colors around Fontana Lake, and Linville Falls, Grandfather Mtn area. Have fun!!
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Sep 4, 2014 16:26:31   #
mdorn wrote:
If you are using DVI, then you are confined to the sRGB color space---as DVI only supports 8-bit color. This monitor supports the higher bit depth, but you need to be using the HDMI (version 1.3 or above) or DisplayPort for this.

My question is WHY would you want to use Adobe RGB? I'm not an authority on this color space, but most of the world uses sRGB, and if you use Adobe RGB and you don't know what you are doing, then problems will ensue. Here's a YouTube video by Gary Fong that can it explain it better:

http://youtu.be/Xn9u1ZFriFU
If you are using DVI, then you are confined to the... (show quote)


It is my understanding that Adobe RGB has a much richer color space. I use Adobe RGB with Photoshop and Lightroom, but, per your indication, I am only seeing sRGB on my monitor. So, I would like to see what Adobe RGB looks like on my monitor (Dell U2713H) and how that compares to what I print. I use Color Munki to calibrate the monitor. Will try HDMI. I think my video card has HDMI. Is DisplayPort for Mac, only?
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Sep 4, 2014 06:24:04   #
mdorn wrote:
You can drive your monitor with HDMI. Fortunately the U2713H supports HDMI, DVI, VGA, and DisplayPort. If your card supports it, I would use the DisplayPort based on the higher bandwidth and fps. It is a little better than HDMI until the 2.0 standards is more widely supported or a firmware patch is offered for the old standard. DVI is good too. The only one I would avoid is VGA.

If you are a gamer, then you might find that DVI is a little better than HDMI because it supports 60fps, while HDMI (old version) only supports 30fps.
You can drive your monitor with HDMI. Fortunately ... (show quote)


Thanks. Am using DVI. Will I get Adobe RGB with DVI?
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Sep 3, 2014 22:35:12   #
Basil wrote:
That's good feedback. Do you have to use the WD app to access files?


Yes, you use the WD software, but that is no big deal. There is even an app for the iPad that I use to download files from the WD MyCloud to the iPad. Works great. I have several photo editing apps on the iPad that I can use to edit the photos (even raw photos) after downloading them from the MyCloud. Sharing the photos is then easy, as well.

Yes, when there is a power blip, the software resets the internet access to a new IP address. You lose internet access when this happens and you have to reboot the device. That's a major drag since you find out you cannot access the photos when you are not with the device to reboot it. However, the device can be manually and permanently set to one IP address that the device uses every time such that a power blip is no longer an issue.

Yes, uploading speeds for many Internet Providers are generally much slower than download speeds. It can take a very, very long time (hours) to upload large amounts of data (photos) to the WD MyCloud. I generally put my files onto the device from the computer that is connected to the same router as the MyCloud. That is fast because it does not have to go through the internet. Then I can access those photos from anywhere in the world where (secure) wifi is available.

Yes, you can connect another portable HD to the MyCloud through its USB ports. I have a WD MyBook attached. You can program the WD software to backup the MyCloud to the attached HD or vice versa.

The WD MyCloud, I believe, is a much more secure (provided you change passwords often) and more readily accessible cloud storage device than iCloud and other cloud devices.
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Sep 3, 2014 22:06:47   #
Lundberg02 wrote:
Amazon has it for 815. It is Adobe RGB 1998 capable. The ergonomics are great. It is heavier than usual. It has USB ports. Don't drive it from an HDMI output.


Curious. Why not drive monitor from HDMI output?
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Sep 2, 2014 17:10:44   #
gtobey wrote:
Very interested in this from the reviews. I have an old 2001FP which blew me away some years ago, but now I want bigger and sharper for Lightroom processing. Any suggestion or comments would be appreciated. Dell wants $999, Amazon less but although I've bought a ton from them I'm worried about problems if I get a lemon.


Not sure it has anything but basic rgb color space. Don't think it has Adobe rgb.
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