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Posts for: MtnMan
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Jul 19, 2017 13:01:25   #
Yes, inputting with a card is the normal way. For Nikon you need to expand the downloaded file first and move the enclosed .bin file to the card.
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Jul 19, 2017 11:07:27   #
GKarl wrote:
Timberfalls, This is a very well written easy to understand answer. I wish more people on this forum answered questions as effective as you. You described a common mistake many people make with the update. Thanks.


It continues to impress me how many people miss that step in Nikon's instructions. That would include me in my most recent update a month ago.

They need to make it more clear on the download page...big flashing print or something: "NOTE: YOU MUST FIRST EXPAND THE DOWNLOADED COMPRESSED FILE AND THEN TRANSFER THE .bin FILE TO YOUR CAMERA CARD!"
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Jul 19, 2017 10:57:49   #
I think it is under "Release priority". It is a2 on a D800.
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Jul 19, 2017 10:33:28   #
rjaywallace wrote:
I see no camera movement in this shot. Everyone, please keep in mind that the Depth Of Field for Fuji's 23mm lens is VERY slim - a narrow sliver will be captured sharply, but a larger part of the image will be blurred.


Sorry but DOF of a 23 mm lens isn't thin when using a proper f-stop for this type image; i.e. F16. For example focused at 3 ft DOF is 1.5 to 6 ft.

It is camera movement.

If it were focus point or DOF something would be tack sharp. All edges are blurred.
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Jul 19, 2017 09:41:43   #
photo3333 wrote:
Hello, all!

I have been a beginner for sometime now. And, I was never introduced to "photoshop." I wish to learn more about and to improve the subjects I am taking.
Wish to enhance photos to make them close to perfection--if possible! Any suggestions would be most helpful to me. (Camera I'm using is a Canon Rebel 6T/1300D.)

Thanks for your assistance!


You might try this:

https://www.udemy.com/photoshoptraining/?couponCode=THEBEST7010&utm_source=email-Adhoc&utm_campaign=2017-07-19_._cn_INSTRUCTOR_._en_Top_7d_._us_AllAlltl_LC_._tg_n_._et_2_._eg_1_._la_en_._rn_42935_._&utm_medium=2017-07-19_INSTRUCTOR_Top_7d_AllAll_LC_n_&utm_content=udemy.5967705&data_h=AkIcc1dXQ3Q%3D&utm_term=TOP7D_CAT_SUBCAT_OVERALL_3A
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Jul 18, 2017 21:44:55   #
Looks like camera movement. Perhaps your shutter speed is too low for the lens length. Perhaps you are not using image stabilization. Would meed to know the details of the capture.
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Jul 18, 2017 21:39:37   #
kpmac wrote:
Exactly. If you shoot in RAW, adjusting white balance in-camera will make no difference, nor will exposure compensation.


Exposure compensation certainly will make a difference in your exposure.
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Jul 18, 2017 18:30:09   #
chaman wrote:
You are a bit confused. You asked what are your balance procedures? As some her just answered my balance procedures are shooting in AWB and then correct it in PP. That is a valid procedure and it as nothing to do with the JPG vs RAW issue.


PP certainly does have to do with RAW vs. jpeg because you have different options in post processing depending on whether you saved the RAW image file or a processed jpeg. At least in Lightroom. With RAW images you can choose from among the standard camera choices; e.g daylight, shade, tungsten, etc. Lightroom does not give you those choices for jpegs. You can only adjust the temperature and hue with sliders.
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Jul 18, 2017 18:01:18   #
aschweik wrote:
I'd like to take an online photography course...I don't need a degree or anything, just want to take my hobby up a notch (or several). I see the online courses like New York Institute of Photography, etc. and I'm wondering if this kind of thing is good? In addition I can watch the youtube videos from Steve Perry, Bryan Peterson, etc.. Just wondering what you all recommend...online course? Youtube? Both? Thanks for all your wise advice!


You might consider The Great Courses offerings. All are well done but I liked the two by National Geograpic photographer Joel Sartore best.

Their couses are always on sale so expect to pay no more than $79 each. You can get Fundamentals of Photography now for $59. Well worth it.

You can get DVDs but their streaming system is first rate.

http://www.thegreatcourses.com/courses/fundamentals-of-photography.html?pfm=BestSellers&pos=1
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Jul 18, 2017 17:37:05   #
lamiaceae wrote:
I shoot Raw! I'll often leave my camera set to AWB and if the light is known to me, to say Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Flash, Fluorescent. But for Raw I don't really have to set it to anything special because I can change them to any WB I want with ACR with either one click or one slide. For mixed light for sure I'll leave to AWB because I'll have to work on the color balance in full photoshop anyway. But the WB with RAW does not matter, only the initial thumbnail that comes up shows how a JPG might have looked.

If you upgrade from a Nikon (DX) D300 to a Nikon (FX) D810, D750, D610, or Df, I am sure you will see an improvement but possibly no difference in color other than less noise. If you want to see a taste difference in WB like Kodachrome vs Ektachrome would would likely have to change to a different brand of camera, say Canon, Pentax, or Sony. I know from looking at my friends cameras that both Nikon and Canon images have a certain "look", that differs. And that is not to say that you can't make them indistinguishable with PP, just that the JPGs right out of the camera look rather different to me and different from my Pentax images. Again, RAWs are pretty independent from camera.

Nothing wrong with setting WB manually or using AWB, but you should not have any problem getting good WB if you use your camera to its optimum for the given light conditions. I find in complex or mixed color balanced light (more than one type of Kelvin) that AWB is a good place to start. But that is me with Pentax cameras.
I shoot Raw! I'll often leave my camera set to AW... (show quote)


You can also adjust that "look" with Nikon Picture Controls. Again we are talking when you in-camera process to make a jpeg.

The provided Picture Controls can be adjusted by the user. Some (maybe all) Nikons also let you design your own custom Picture Controls.

Picture Controls adjust sharpening, brightness, contrast, hue and saturation.
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Jul 18, 2017 17:29:16   #
larryepage wrote:
I use both file formats.

As a note, this was not posed as a JPEG vs. raw question. I would respectfully ask that this thread please not be redirected that way. The question here is really not about file formats; it is a photography question. It's about capturing the best possible negative for subsequent use, whether via post processing or not.

In my mind, exposing with an improper white balance setting is the same as shooting with the wrong film, like using film balanced for tungsten outdoors. Yes it can be corrected in processing and printing, but why do something that just has to be fixed later if it can be correct to start with. And shooting with proper white balance is the only way to capture "all" of the visual information. I'll try to dig back and find an image that I shot years ago at a local zoo of a nocturnal animal display under red light. The image shot with WB at 2500 K with my D200 was easily rendered to a very pleasing natural image with just a little tuning. One shot for comparison at "Incandescent," (about 3200 K) was not ever fully salvageable, even with lots of work. The information at the other end of the spectrum (blue and violet) just wasn't there...it was below the dynamic range of the processor because of the red light.

Thanks, and I look forward to further replies.
I use both file formats. br br As a note, this ... (show quote)


You seem to have some misconceptions. The RAW file is the digital negative. The first sentence of your second paragraph is simply wrong. It is when you choose jpeg that you pick the wrong "film". The third sentence is even more wrong. The only way to capture all 14 bits of information is record the RAW image. With jpeg you reduce that to 8 bits.

You might want to read Shewe's book "The Digital Negative".

I read your protests but you do not seem to understand that as soon as you choose jpeg you are processing your image. White balance is only one element of that choice.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:13:21   #
Shoot RAW and you can set the white balance later.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:11:28   #
kbatschke wrote:
I'm running into a curious situation with LR. My CC version is up to date. With my Sony A6500, when I shoot JPEG, I only have one option available for lens profiles; Sony DT 18 - 200 (I only have the 16-50mm and 50-210mm). However, when I shoot ARW (raw) I have Sony E option available with dozens of lenses. Is it that LR cannot apply the full array of Sony E lens profiles to JPEG images? I'm not here to debate the value of RAW vs. JPEG. Much of my photography is work-related where hi-res JPEG works just fine for my needs with less processing overhead. Still, I would like to be able to use the correct lens profiles in LR with either format.
I'm running into a curious situation with LR. My C... (show quote)


Likely that the lens profile was applied in-camera for the jpegs. Surprised you see any choices.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:09:04   #
G Brown wrote:
You should NOT put them in a bin for general collection or disposal. Think about all the people who have to handle that stuff. If possible dispose in the proper container at your Drs Dentist Hospital, Health clinic or rehab centre. Even some chemist (drug store) will take them for safe disposal (Yellow sharps box)

Difficult I accept....but increasingly necessary.


Never saw a human literally handling such stuff.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:03:55   #
Advice making disposal difficult, though well intended, is likely to create the wrong result. Most people will leave them vs. taking on the obligation to get them to a Dr.s office etc.

Better to put them in the trash, which isn't handled with bare hands anywhere I've seen, than leaving them around for some child.

I pick up stuff like that, including the dead birds in my yard, with a plastic trash bag inside out. For those of you who live where plastic trash bags are outlawed: my condolences. You know who to thank for that.
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