IreneAC Loc: San Diego

Last week I purchased my first interchangeable-lens camera!
I bought a new Fuji XT2 with a 23mm lens (which got very good reviews). Today I finally went outside and shot several "test" photos and I am not happy with the color-halo and color-bleeding (not sue of correct term) I am seeing in some photos. It seems to happen mostly with the pink flowers against a green or blue background (see attached).

Prior to this I was using a bridge camera (Sony RX10) and never saw this problem. I took photos of the same flowers using my Sony and as you can see, there is no halo or color-bleeding (see attached). And the images are sharper!

I did research into this color-bleeding issue but am not savvy enough to figure out what the problem is: my technique, the camera, the lens, or a combo thereof. Keep in mind my Sony photos of the same flowers turned out fine.

The Sony seems to take much sharper photos overall; I am not very happy with the Fuji IQ.
I know it is a brand new camera and there will be a learning curve, but shouldn't the initial photos be sharp no matter how little I know about the Fuji?
And one of the primary reasons I went to the Fuji was for the larger sensor (for better IQ and better low-light performance).
I wonder if it is due in part to no stabilization in the Fuji body - maybe I should stick to Image Stabilized lenses only.
But then that limits the Fuji lenses available to me...

Please let me know what you think - thanks.

(Yes, I realize the photos were taken from slightly different distances, but does that really matter with regards to the halo-issue?)

Fuji

(Download)

Sony

(Download)

agillot

different pictures , how can you compare .

MtnMan Loc: ID

Looks like camera movement. Perhaps your shutter speed is too low for the lens length. Perhaps you are not using image stabilization. Would meed to know the details of the capture.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

You didn't say which model RX10 you have. One photographer on this forum returned his brand new RX10iii and bought a used first version RX10, and claimed it gave sharper images. One reason it has sharp images, is that it has a fixed Zeiss quality lens. As for it be sharper than your mirrorless Fuji. Perhaps the choice of lens could be a factor. Your Fuji sensor should be superior to a Sony RX10? Bridge camera. IMO.

BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten

Is the first photo inside the minimum focus distance of the lens used?

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

I don't see much "color bleeding" in your Fuji sample. That said, I'm not sure the 23mm {34.5mm field of view} is the best example of Fuji's array of lenses. Fuji has 'pushed' the 23mm as a kit lens for the X-T2 and the X-Pro2. Suggest you read as many reviews and watch as many video review/comparisons as you can before selecting your next few lenses. One incredible example, which I previously rented, is the Fuji 56mm f/1.2 {84mm field of view} - a to die for lens. Also, Fuji has announced for Aug/Sept 2017 an 80mm {120mm FOV} f/2.8 macro lens.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

The macro lens is good news. Might be the push I need to convert....

Thanks

SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

Pretty obvious either you, or the plant, moved in the Fuji shot.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

These two images are totally incomparable, so we cannot compare them. You need to take a second set in such a way they are comparable. To do this would require that you carry both cameras to the same point, and take a picture with each one from the same spot closely spaced in time.

I don't know whether you were using auto-ISO or set them to different ISO values, but now you need to set both of them to the same fixed ISO value {perhaps 100} before you start.

The two images you posted used rather large apertures, which could help to cause the problems you see. I would suggest that you set both to aperture priority mode with aperture fixed to a smaller aperture, perhaps f/5.6.

I don't know what lenses you have, but it would be best for your view through the viewfinders be very similar.

Once you have set the cameras up, you should be able to take a picture from each camera, in reasonably "rapid" sequence, and I'm guessing they will be much more similar to each other than the two you posted here are.

Grnway Loc: Manchester, NH

Excellent points!

pistolpete

I own a X-T1 and use a 23mm f1.4 and the IQ results are fantastic. You Fuji pic looks like it was either not in complete focus or you moved during the shot (but it looks like a sunny day so you should have been in the 1/250 to 1/500 shutter range so maybe not relevant). On my camera the fucusing square turns green when you're in correct focusing range.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

To get a valid comparison, use a tripod and focus on a subject that isn't going to move. A slight breeze can move flowers and leaves. Take identical shots with each camera.

rmm0605 Loc: Atlanta GA

What I see is this: the Fuji photo has a shallower DOF. The perspective is closer to the flower. Check your lens settings and make sure you are comparing apples to apples.

magpix Loc: St. Michaels, MD

Having shot many flowers with my Fuji XT-1 and XT-2 system and getting extremely sharp images, I would say that your technique is the problem here, not the camera or lens. Looks like camera movement to me. You don't mention which 23mm lens you have, but they are both very sharp lenses and not a "kit" lens as someone here suggests. The f/2 is just as sharp as the f1.4 at f2.8 and actually focuses quicker. The advantage of the f/1.4 is simply that it can gather more light for shooting in challenging situations. Both Fuji 23mm lenses are successfully used by pros for environmental portraits, landscape and street photography...but rarely macro situations. For the sharpest macro work, with any lens, you'll want to use a tripod, remote release, stop down and perhaps try focus stacking. You can rest assured you have a great camera and lens (whichever 23mm you have) that will deliver incredible results. Have fun learning how to get the most out of them.

jackpinoh Loc: Kettering, OH 45419

Your shutter speeds were high enough that camera or subject motion is unlikely to have been an issue. The difference in the photos is depth of field. Depth of field depends on the sensor size, the aperture, and the distance to the subject. The RX10 has a smaller sensor and you were further away from the subject, both resulting in greater depth of field.