When you 'Output', the options for export appear. Specifically, 'Process Recipe' drop down menu gives you all the choices you need to set up the type, quality, and information you wish to include in your output file. You can save this and it will appear in the 'Process Recipes' menu. CP1Pro already offers a list of output options for those who do not wish to modify and create their own. I find this option to be clean and intuitive.
Jon
I originally used the WD 4TB Thunderbolt drive as my primary external storage. I then used another as BackUp #1 and have a raid..Drobo5N as primary backup. Two issues: You will need a Thunderbolt hub (or computer with multiple thunderbolt inputs) to backup/copy your files. This also points to the fact that Thunderbolt, while good when introduced, will not end up being the best protocol. Second, it is a hard drive (actually 2 discs). And they will fail. WD stood behind one that did and replaced.
This led me to the Samsung T3 SSD. Expensive, but worth it. First, as my primary drive, everything in PP is much faster. Second, the USB 3.0 is much faster and more versatile than the Thunderbolt connection. You will find that flexibility is important when you work out your backup workflow. Keep in mind that even though you may have multiple Thunderbolt connections; they are not the easiest to link together. Especially TB 2.0. You cannot daisy chain this protocol. So, I suggest you use the SSD with USB 3.0 as your primary external drive; and keep your WD 4.0 TB drives as backup(s).
Jon
RWR, your recent experiences with BH suck. But they did take care of you. In fact you have only nice things to say about their customer service and contact with management. All of these conversations about unions is not only irrelevant but diverts attention from your decision. All of your quotes usually apply to someone who has been purposely screwed by someone. Not in your case. They made everything right. Why don't you talk with someone who has actually suffered and lost something? Maybe your perspective will change. While BH is not the only supplier out there, they are one of the best. The only one who might suffer from your decision, is you. No big deal, but your choices become more limited. Enjoy your passion and turn your perceived liability into an asset.
Your decision what to shoot is simple, based upon what you have heard from everyone. But should only be based upon what you view as your needs; now and in the future. There are a few incontrovertible facts: Raw files are significantly larger than jpegs, therefore storage can be an issue. The cost of storage has steadily decreased over the past 15 years. However, the requirements for storage have increased geometrically if you shoot Raw.
Raw files, compared to jpegs, allow for the most versatile PP. There is absolutely no commonality with what can be done between a raw image and the best jpeg quality that your camera can produce when using PP software such as PS or CP1Pro. This is important. I am not talking about how good your set up is and therefore how good your original photo comes out. It is about what your options are if you only shoot jpeg or raw. I cannot tell you how many important photos have been recovered (in Raw) because of my errors that would have been lost with only jpeg.
I can only speak to Nikon here. But Boo is so right. All NEF files have a high quality jpeg imbedded in the file. Most PP software or 'selection' software (PhotoMechanic/FastRawViewer) use the jpeg for the thumbnail initial view. This can be modified in "Preferences". And, these same programs can extract the jpeg if you wish as well. So, the jpeg is available. Also, I can only attest to using Mac and can only assume that Windows can do the same previews with the appropriate codecs and choice of software.
Last, and most important, is what is your goal? Do you want to take photos and immediately share them with friends and family? Take raw + jpeg. Do you have the time and patience to learn a PP workflow? If not, take raw+jpeg. If you do, take raw. Do you want to find that photo that does something special for you and print it out? Take Raw since this gives you the versatility to make corrections or enhancements. This presumes that you are not perfect and the original may need to be tweaked.
Notice that I always include raw in my selections. The reason is that maybe someday you will be thankful that you have the raw files since you have changed your goals. Your pictures are a part of your life. There should not be a line drawn that says....'these pictures are now more important than those pictures because I am now prepared to spend the time with PP software..' One of the reasons for digital is that these files can be saved forever. We now have a 2nd chance with those 'old' pictures. I like that.
This is the reason why I switched to only raw one year after I started shooting with my Nikon D200 and using Apple's Aperture. I have never regretted that decision.
Of course Pros, will not find this discussion beneficial for themselves, as they already now the value of raw files. Their goals and requirements are not the same as the everyday photographer; even though the ultimate result should be the same for us all that ask this question. Shoot raw + jpeg (only if you need the finished file immediately and are currently unwilling to do any type of PP). Otherwise, shoot raw and never look back with regrets.
Lightoom is the path of least resistance since so many use this product However, I am not an Adobe fan and looked for alternatives. I chose Phase One's Capture One Pro about 3 years ago. The import of Aperture libraries is seamless and most edits are recognized. Your workflow from Aperture is an easy transition into CP1. You can learn new editing techniques at your pace and not be forced by LR's requirements. All of this aside, there are people at CP1 who actually respond to questions. The company is constantly updating and improving the software based upon feedback from their community. Their processing engine is 2nd to none. And those of us who loved Aperture, for many reasons, not the least of which was our ability to 'talk' to someone at Apple, will find CP1 the closest experience to that of Aperture. Phase One cares about their customers. Adobe cares about market share and this is reflected in their attitude to their customers. At one time Adobe was the only option for professionals, and their needs were never met by other developers of editing software. And today, that is still the case for most professionals. But I am not a pro, and I have been more than happy with my choice.
I have owned WD 4TB Passport Pro for 2 1/2 years. It was/is pre-formatted for HFS +J. I recently had a problem with file recognition when using with Capture 1. Instead of waiting for the drive to 'pass out', I contacted WD for support under the 3 year warranty. They ultimately replaced it. So, whether you get the Pro or regular drive, the company stands behind their warranty. Now to what is really important.
If you are just looking for cheap backup (quantity), then this is a good solution. I did this for just that reason 2 1/2 years ago. I use a MB Air and will ultimately switch to the Pro, however, that does not change the fact that working with large RAW files is slow. Or should I say slower than I would prefer. The new Mac (your selection is great) will help. But the real issue is that hard drive discs will fail. Even though we all have backup upon backup, it does not change this fact. So, I decided to go for an SSD. Yes, it is expensive; but my pictures and editing are priceless; to me. I purchased the Samsung 2TB Portable SSD T3. I did this for a few reasons: it is a much faster r/w; it is not only smaller and lighter, but is 'shock resistant' due to the nature of the SSD drive. No spinning disks. No excessive heat build up. And much less chance of drive failure (especially when considering the 4TB Passport has 2 spinning HD).
I now use my 4TB Passport Pro as my first direct backup.
Why did I settle for 2TB when I had 4TB? In actual use, I am only using two years of files. Actually my current year, and look back to the previous year as a convenience. This decision became more important as my workflow became more intensive with 45MB Raw files. Why do I need to have the last 10 years of digital files on a drive that I am constantly using (and not intentionally abusing)? So, my complete DSLR history is on one 4TB portable drive, Drobo 5N for piece of mind, and archived with video files from 1980 to 2015 on multiple WD and Seagate portable drives. These are all identical copies with instructions for my kids on how to use them should they ever want to have these for their children and future. My 'Home' photos are all about this. My work photos are handled separately and much more simply.
There is one more thing you should keep in mind about backing up files. Do you back up your editing program's 'catalog' or 'library' on these drives as well? Of course you want to have the primary library on your desktop as the response time is much faster; however, if you do not have this routinely backed up with your files, you could lose your edits to the files. Most programs today do not modify the original file, but have the edits reside in the separate library file.
So, after all of this, I am thrilled with my SSD. The transfer/backup to my multiple devices is as fast as the slowest routine will allow. My transfer to my Drobo 5N via hub to ethernet for large folders of files is easy, clean, and speedy. And my current throughput to my MBookAir is much easier and gives me a much better peace of mind.