Either way works, that's all that matters. Some folks have issues with fractions, so I used what was given in the original problem. I not sure if the final amount is going to quite cover that new D850 with lenses, Maybe, more money will be required, and we'll have to come up with a new equation.

As an old math teacher, your equation is OK, but remember that "x" is short for "1*x" or "1x". So you have 1x-.18x=6400 which gives you .82x=6400, from which we get x=6400/.82, or x=7804.88

The hard drive that died was a new one. It lasted about a week. I sent it back for replacement as it was under warranty.

Yes, an Arca 4x5 and a Kodak 8x10. Believe it or not, Kodak made cameras many years ago, including my folding 8x10. It folds up into a large lunchbox. I bought it for $800 with a 12" Ektar lens. I still have both cameras, but I have not used them for years. I had a darkroom, but moved to a new house and I have not built another darkroom. I'm thinking about building a new darkroom and going back to film, since one of my hard drives died with my photos on it. Luckily I had backups. No such problem with film, I still have all of my negatives and slides and no worries about failing electronics.

You might check eBay to see what they sell for. If you do want to sell it, I would be interested. I still have an older version, a C3, which is a lot heavier than the C330, and I have the 65, 105, and 180mm lenses. Although not quite Hasselblad quality, it was and is a good picture taker.

Liberal means different things in other countries. When I lived in Australia in the 70's, the Liberal Party was conservative, the Labor Party was socialist, and the Country Party was conservative.

I had a lens similar to your lens about 40 years ago. Not very sharp, but it's fun to play with and light weight compared to a "real" 500mm lens. I'd say get the adapter and have some fun with it.

Hopefully by now, we have resolved the issue of lens IS and camera body IBIS fighting with each other. As I have said, and others have also said, it is either one or the other but not both. Of course, Olympus and Panasonic have decided to muddy the waters a little by introducing dual IS for certain lenses and camera combinations. And while Olympus and Panasonic share the same lens mount, their dual IS systems are not compatible with each other. Perhaps that will change sometime in the future. I'd love to put that Panasonic 100-400mm on my Olympus E-M1 and get full use of that dual IS system. Well, when they discover oil in my backyard, I'll be able to afford it, in the meantime, I'll use my old Canon FD 400mm manual focus lens.

That's a good test to find out which IS is working. The IBIS in the Olympus bodies makes a humming noise, while the lens IS is usually silent. As to Olympus making lenses with IS, the only one that I know of at this time is the 300mm f4. I was incorrect about that not working with the E-M1, it does give you dual IS with the E-M1, E-M5ii, E-M1ii, and PEN F, but not with the older E-M5.

I don't know where you are getting your information, it's not in any Olympus manual that I have a copy of. The systems do not fight each other. These cameras pick one or the other, but not both. If you leave the lens IS on, but want to use the IBIS of the camera, the camera will ignore the lens IS. As I said before, I haven't seen any difference between one or the other with the lenses that I have. I only use the IBIS for my old manual focus lenses.
The newest camera from Olympus and Panasonic do feature dual IS systems with certain lenses, but the cameras that we are talking about here do not have that feature.

I have an Olympus E-M1, and I use Panasonic lenses with it. The E-M1 and E-M5 both work the same way with Panasonic lenses. You have a choice between using the IBIS in the camera bodies or the IS in the lenses, but you can't use both in combination. As both of these cameras are "older" models, they do not have the capability of using both lens IS and IBIS together. You use one or the other, and quite frankly, I haven't noticed any difference between the two. To find all of this go into the Menu, then go into the "gear" menu, then to "Release", and then to "Lens IS Priority" and you can pick one or the other set-up.

For some reason my captions didn't come through on my photos. The second one is an example of a two row panoramic, shifting the lens up for the top row and down for the bottom row. I still used a "nodal rail" and rotated the lens and camera to end up with 6 images which were stitched together in PTgui. You could shoot this with an ultra wide angle in one shot, but you would get more distortion, and you won't get the detail that's in the panoramic shot.
And the last photo is taken with an Olympus E-M1 handheld with the PC28mm. Again, you could shoot this with a wider angle lens and correct it in lightroom or photoshop, although you will lose pixels in the upper part of the image.
As said by nikonbrain, these days these lenses are best used for panoramic photos with or without expensive pano equipment (I made most of my own equipment, but then I'm a retired machinist).

I've been using a Nikkor PC 28mm f3.5 on my Sony A7r. I bought the lens years ago and had the mount on the lens modified to fit my Canon F1, as Canon only had the tilt/shift 35mm lens available at that time. The lens works quite well, although it does have more CA than the newer lenses. These days I use it primarily for multi-row panoramics. I have also used it with my micro 4/3 cameras with some success. Admittedly, with the advent of digital photography and photoshop, there isn't much use for these lenses, hence, the low prices on eBay. Here are a few sample images.

(Download)

Kodak used to make a black and white film called "Fine Grain Release Positive" which had an ISO of 1.0. It was used in the movie industry for making black and white movies from black and white negative film that was shot in their cameras. There was a machine that contact printed the negative movie stock with the "Fine Grain Release Positive" film, which was also a negative film. The final result was a "Positive" movie film. The film was only sensitive to blue light and did not have an anti-halation backing.
I used to buy it in 100' rolls. I would then load it into 35mm film cassettes and shoot it in my 35mm still cameras. The image quality was amazing---virtually no grain, and very sharp. You could develop it in almost any developer, to get varying contrast. The images were very interesting due to the blue only color sensitivity and the lack of an anti-halation backing. It was like using old time wet or dry plate emulsions in your 35mm camera. And you could also use it to make black and white slides from your black and white negatives.
I also used it to photograph a partial solar eclipse, since it's ISO was so low, and it was only sensitive to blue light. I only needed an ordinary red filter to reduce the intensity of the light for the film. I did need more filtration over the viewfinder window so that I could align the camera.
This new color version could be interesting.

Yes, and the only reason the Canon FD costs as much as it does, has to do with it's rarity. I have seen some of them for $800, which is crazy, for what it is. I found mine for $318, and while not mint, everything works like it should.