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Nov 11, 2017 09:25:38   #
bobburk3 wrote:
Any recommendations for backup for my Dell laptop? I already use Carbonite but I want something I can attach to my computer and have handy when I need it. I want a 2T backup system. I have heard that Seagate are unreliable but that was a few years ago so I don't know if they have improved their units.


You are right, that was three years ago. There are a few companies that operate server farms with thousands of hard drives. Backblaze is one that maintains exquisite reliability records. Western Digital has now dropped to the bottom of their list. HGST remains by far the most reliable (Ironically, it is owned by WD.) Seagate is now considered a strong choice.

You can buy a WD or Seagate USB drive for about $100. (I have two Seagates that have been giving me good service for 3+ years). I recommend having two drives and making two separate backups.

If I were buying today though, I would buy a 2-4 bay "Network Attached Storage" RAID array. The cost would be about $400, but the NAS has two major advantages. RAID array provides safety in case any one drive should fail. Second, a NAS can be configured to be available across the Internet, if you wish.

Many people like Carbonite (Or one of its competitors). I tried it, but it hogs my bandwidth and also leaves me dependent on several points of failure.
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Nov 10, 2017 23:37:22   #
A frequent subject is "I need to buy a new computer, what are the the specs best for post processing?" I just ordered a new computer. here's what I bought. It is not a minimum machine. In fact it is what I consider a no compromise machine.

Processor: Intel Core 7th Generation i7-7700 Processor (Quad Core, up to 4.20 GHz, 8MB Cache, 65W)
Windows 10 Home 64bit English
1TB SATA Hard Drive (7200 RPM)
256GB PCIe M.2 NVMe Class 40 Solid State Drive
16GB DDR4 UDIMM Non-ECC 2400MHz (2x8GB)
8 GB DDR4 UDIMM Non-ECC 2400MHz (2x4GB)
16GB M.2 PCIe Optane Memory
Tray load DVD Drive (Reads and Writes to DVD/CD)
AMD Radeon RX 480 with 8GB GDDR5

With the SSD configured as C:/ to give me the extra speed, the 1TB will be D: and used only for data. I get differing opinions about the Optane memory from experts, but Dell already had it in the machine. It is supposed to be a kind of advanced "cache." New Intel technology. I will probably take out the 1TB because I'll be transferring my present two data storage drives which are both only a few months old (And HGST brand) as drive D: and E:. Find some other use for it.

Not bad for under $1,000. Similar machines are available from other manufacturers--though not Apple, even a three times the price.

Actually, after I ordered it, I found essentially the same machine at my local Costco for about $1090. It would have been an excellent choice also.
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Nov 10, 2017 22:28:07   #
Tomas1 wrote:
Hello every one looking to get started in photography. Going to travel and will be looking to buy. Any good ideas for around 8 hundreds dollars.


Got my adult daughter a Nikon D3300 about a year ago, but go for the newer D3400. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d3400.htm You can get a great kit for $600 at Costco. It is a great camera. With NO previous experience, she is turning out good photos and accolades from her peers.
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Nov 10, 2017 19:51:59   #
Pixie Jackie wrote:
I have a niece who inherited a Hasselblad but has never used it! I've tried to coax her into selling it to me but she wants to keep it. Oh well. I have a Mamiya 645 that I like, so that's O.K.


With a digital back? YEa.
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Nov 10, 2017 19:50:03   #
Johanna wrote:
I have almost decided to spring for a D850. I would trade my D800 in. My question which of the "Big Three or other" camera stores is likely to offer the highest trade in value? I have spent more money over the past years at one of the two biggies, if that may be reason to chose it. shutter count is 3956! I use my D750 more.


Assuming "big three" means Amazon, B&H, and Adorama, don't fail to try my friends at Cameta.

Or hold on to the D800 for a second body. Or better yet sell it on Ebay. I've also done well on Craigslist.
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Nov 10, 2017 19:45:55   #
rmalarz wrote:
Probably. Nikon is about to shutter its entire operation. Your best bet is to purchase as many NIkon products as you can get your hands on. They'll become collector's items in a matter of months.
--Bob


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Nov 10, 2017 19:42:18   #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
I am so tempted to crop the bottom from that photo to make the seagull look like a giant.


NNNNOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooo!!!!!! He's perfect as is.
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Nov 8, 2017 15:34:07   #
The Villages wrote:
As one who has a 12 MP DSLR, but is looking at newer models at higher MP levels (20-30+/-), my concern is the affect that such a move would have on my computer. Its not the latest model, but includes post processing software. None of this is the latest and greatest, but serves my purposes just fine.

I know that a higher MP count has its artistic advantages (and that it might require better glass for sharper pictures), but how would these added MP affect the computer's operation? At what MP level would there be a significant affect on the computer....at what point does it really matter? Not concerned about the time to download (have all the time in the world). Currently have plenty of storage space.

Thanking you in advance for your insight into the question.
As one who has a 12 MP DSLR, but is looking at new... (show quote)


Here are some minimums.

You will need some increased RAM, at least 8GB. (Or some hair coloring to cover the additional gray hairs which develop as you wait.)
You may need more hard drive space as 16-24+ megapixel images usually take more space on the drive.

If your computer is more than 4-5 years old, it may not be worth doing any upgrade. Hard drives do have a finite average lifespan and 4-6 years is pushing.

A new, minimally adequate computer can be had for $4-500. Not much more if any than retrofitting.

Look for at least 8GB ram, 1 TB hard drive and an I5 processor. I've seen DELL and Acer in that price range. Sometimes you can get Factory (Note the word "Factory". Don't buy a non-factory) refurbished for a little less or more advanced features. Costco has great deals on DELL, Acer and HP.

This would be a minimally adequate computer for working on images from a 20-24 mpxl camera.

For a few more bucks, go to 16GB ram. From there you can get an I7 processor. The next step for me would be a solid state C: drive. And then the sky's the limit. I am about to buy a very tricked out DELL refurb with an I7-8 processor, 24 gb RAM, and a 254GB SSD and Raytheon video and much more for $880 from DELL, but that's way beyond your needs.

Do not buy a Mac. They are about 3x the price for similar capabilities and they are "locked down," hard or impossible to upgrade. Windows 10 is every bit as easy to use (It used to be more difficult and people got hooked to Mac, but now, not so.)

For the record, I used to hold a certified systems engineer title and ran a computer business. While I am not now fully up to date, the basics have not changed. Except that Macs now are being targeted by viruses.
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Nov 7, 2017 21:30:32   #
mdundovi wrote:
Does anyone have experience with using the video feature on the D7100? Do you prefer a decent digital camcorder or the D7100?
Thanks in advance.


Yes. I used the D7100 to produce a few videos. Not ideal, but definitely doable. The main weakness is that it requires shooting clips of under about 15 min. to prevent overheating. OTOH, most video clips are at most 15 minutes. It does work well. Of course newer cameras do a much better job. (My Sony a6300 makes great videos.) Whatever camera, you MUST use an external shock-mounted shotgun mike. Even a RODE Videomicgo or a Takstar will do better. Any in-built mic will pick up a lot of ambient noise and degrade the audio. (I mostly use a pricy Sennheiser but have a couple other mics, I would give away for the price of shipping.
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Nov 7, 2017 21:21:46   #
bleyton wrote:
I'm just getting started with my new Sony A6000, and I am trying to understand the relationships between my various lenses and how they work on a crop sensor camera like mine.

I have a few old Minolta and Vivitar lenses from my film days. I bought a cheap adapter on eBay and have been playing around. I am trying to understand how the apertures and focal lengths work on an adapted full-frame lens.

My Sony lenses are the 16-50 and the 55-210 kit lenses. When I compare these to my film lenses, I know that I need to apply the crop factor, which means that my lenses will work more or less like a 24-75 and an 83-315 would on a film or full-frame camera. Is this also true of the apertures? Is a 3.5 max aperture really more like 5.25?

I guess the idea here is to understand what the advantages would be of using say, my 50mm 1.7 Minolta lens. Are the apertures on my old film lenses comparable to the stated ones on my modern Sony lenses (such that the 1.7 on my Minolta can be compared to the max available at 50mm on my Sony of 5.6)?

Interestingly enough, I took some pics at 50mm with the Sony 16-50, and then shot the same scene with the Minolta, at varying apertures. The Minolta at 1.7 was very smeary looking, but as I worked my way to smaller apertures, it got better. I'm not at all sure though that I see the great advantage of using the 50mm manual lens vs. having the zoom and autofocus of the Sony lens. The sharpness was not really any better to my eye, though I imagine there might be specific cases where I could shoot at say 2.8 or 4, and get better background blurring.

Sorry if I am meandering here, but I guess the main question is whether both aperture and focal length are comparable when looking at full-frame or adapted film lenses vs. a lens made for a crop sensor camera. Oh - and does the adapter figure in at all here? Do I lose anything when adapting a lens? I guess I am just trying to figure out whether it's even worthwhile to use my old lenses.

Brian
I'm just getting started with my new Sony A6000, a... (show quote)


Brian, if you will quit letting the marketing departments invade your camera, you will have the answers to some of your questions. There is no such thing as a "crop" sensor. The aps-c has a certain size. A 100mm lens used on the aps-c will always cover a certain area. If you want to cover the area that used to be 35mm film, you will need a lens that covers the larger area, that's all. There certainly is no difference in aperture, and f2.8 is f2.8 on either camera. f11 is f11. 100mm is 100mm.

I'm not saying that 35mm sensors don't have an advantage in certain situations. But the aps-c has some advantages too.

At best, the terms "full frame" and "crop" sensor made sense when they were trying to sell us old 35mm film folk on the new cameras. In the process they have caused more confusion and misinformation than they cleared up.

When the D850 and the new Sony come down in price a little, they will have sufficient improvement to be worth noting. Perhaps they will be worthy of the name "full frame" until Fuji decides to market a 6x7cm sensor with 150 megapixels.
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Nov 7, 2017 19:37:15   #
bobburk3 wrote:
Any recommendations for backup for my Dell laptop? I already use Carbonite but I want something I can attach to my computer and have handy when I need it. I want a 2T backup system. I have heard that Seagate are unreliable but that was a few years ago so I don't know if they have improved their units.


I don't agree with the criticisms of Seagate. I have three external Seagate drives running. Haven't had a failure in years. That said, Google and others who keep tabs on the history of thousands of drives in their drive farms, do rate HGST and some WDs better.

I've tried Carbonite and found it far too slow for me. Now I use Novastore software along with my three external drives so that I have two duplicate up to date backups and a third just for special data.

If I was starting new, I would probably prefer (And will eventually move to) a Network Attached Storage based on a Raid Array. The initial cost would be a little more, but it would provide both RAID reliability and make the data available over the internet.
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Nov 7, 2017 19:29:35   #
Wow. I am really struggling to find something positive to say. No point of focus, not even very soft-focus. Is there a subject?, a composition? There must be a key somewhere to unlock this image. I really hate being so negative. Help me out.
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Nov 6, 2017 12:18:12   #
PHRubin wrote:
With the 18-400 she would not have to change lenses if she needed focal lengths in the normal to wide range. It is a good walk around lens. The 100-400 lens should give better IQ, especially on an APS-C body, but it would be hard to notice if you never print larger than 8 X 10.


If I never print larger than 8x10, my daughter's iPhone is sufficient. I always print at least 11x14 and often enough up to 20x30 and beyond from my a6300. I would not buy a lens which couldn't do that.
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Nov 6, 2017 12:06:40   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Virtually all cameras let you raise the ISO to levels that were unheard of a few years ago. If you have to get a shot in dim light, raise the ISO or lose the shot. It's that simple. "Yeah, I could have gotten a great shot of that black cat in the coal bin, but I didn't want to raise the ISO." Either accept the noise or deal with it in post. There's lots of good noise software.

http://www.topazlabs.com/denoise
http://www.lightstalking.com/noise-in-your-images-use-these-easy-strategies-to-improve-your-noisy-photographs
https://photographylife.com/photo-noise-reduction-tutorial
Virtually all cameras let you raise the ISO to lev... (show quote)


Exactly. If it is between getting, even a noisy shot, and not getting any, I'll take the noise and minimize it later. With my a6300 I can shoot virtually noisefree to ISO 6400 and with minimal noise all the way to 12,800. I often shoot in dark museums and churches and could obliterate the darkness. (You need some dark/light contrast to maintain the mood of the place.)
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Nov 6, 2017 11:56:20   #
William Royer wrote:
I’ve been using Photoshop/ACR for many years — purchasing updates along the way. Now have PS CS6. Should soon be receiving new Nikon D850. As I understand, my alternatives are to go to the subscription basis for PS CC (which I absolutely do NOT want to do); to convert all the RAW files to DNG and continue to use CS6 (although it’s not clear to me whether ACR will work the same on those files); or, to change to a whole new PP system. So, my questions are:
1). Are any of you going through (or, have gone through) a similar decision process — either for the D850 or for another ‘new’ camera’. And, what did you do?
2). If any are doing the conversion process to DNG, how onerous is that? Does ACR work the same on DNG as it did directly in the RAW files? Seems to me that it’s a bit of a stop gap measure.
3) Lastly, if you changed to a new processing system, which one did you choose? My PP needs are currently met 70% by ACR. Do not do a lot of advanced layering, etc. However, I do use some plug ins like Nik. Plus, minor tools like erase, sizing, etc. I do not do sessions involving hundreds of images (like weddings) so cataloging and sorting is not a major item; Bridge has worked ok for me. As alternatives to PS, am thinking of Capture One. Any thoughts on that.
I really appreciate any feedback. This situation created by Adobe moving to subscription basis irritates me beyond words.
Thanks,
Bill
I’ve been using Photoshop/ACR for many years — pur... (show quote)


I began using Affinity Photo about 8-9 months ago. I really like it. It does about everything I've tried as well or better than Photoshop (I have over 20 years of PS) It handles all the RAW files that people throw at it. The arguments for the DNG conversion do not convince me. Originally Adobe thought that DNG would become the main standard, but that hasn't really happened. I think Canon and Nikon will be here longer than the Evil Empire.

Corel is a good product. But the learning curve defeated me. I just never made the transition. Affinity, while different from PS, does have enough of a similarity to make it easier to learn. I've also looked at ACDSee, ON1 and some others. Affinity is only $50 for a lifetime license including all updates. (That will eventually change, but for now.)

The one problem right now is that I haven't found a perfect replacement for Bridge. I like the ability to categorize with four different label colors and five star levels. No one else, I have found does that. Fastone comes closest. My Bridge continues to work even though I have dropped the CC subscription.
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