The second page of my Godox owner's manual shows the MODE Selection Button to also be the Lock Button. I have a number of different Godox products, and as long as I first read the manuals, I find them quite easy to use.

The workflow is very easy, as Iridient can be installed as LR plug-in. Simply import your Fuji RAW images into LR, then select those you want converted into a DNG by Iridient, and once done the DNG files are right there next to the Fuji RAF files. Since the conversion takes a bit of time, I only convert those files that I eventually plan to print. Otherwise, the current LR converter is doing a pretty good job.

The difference in features and performance between LR6 and the current Classic CC is significant, and when compared to the cost of an XT-30 even with the inexpensive 18-55mm kit lens it seems reasonable to justify spending $120/year for a package of software that does so much. Not only do you get the latest updates and features of LR, but you get PS as well as PORTFOLIO which allows you to create and publish your own website. The current version of LR does a very good job with Fuji RAW files, but in rare instances, converting them to DNGs with Iridient Transformer will result in slightly improved quality. Capture One is an excellent alternative, but the full version is expensive and the learning curve is high. I've tried Capture One and ON1, but after Adobe improved its LR RAW converter for Fuji files, I've continued to use LR and PS. I've got a lot invested in my Fuji X series bodies and lenses, and $10/month seems a reasonable amount to pay for programs that are continually updated. Publishing my website for free is a bonus.

The 100-400mm Fuji is an excellent lens but very large and heavy for the XE-2. In general, it's not really a travel lens. I'd recommend the 55-200mm which is much smaller and lighter. Fuji's crop sensor will give you the equivalent of a 300mm lens, enough for landscape details and many wildlife situations. While I own both, I find the 55-200 is my go-to travel lens along with the 18-55 and 10-24.

I'd highly recommend the XT-30 which is smaller and lighter yet has very similar specs and identical performance to the XT-3. I believe the main difference is that the XT-30 is not weather sealed. The 18-55mm lens is excellent, but you may want to consider Fuji's very compact f/2 primes including the 23, 35 and 50mm.

Yes, I recently met him in New York and he is a very pleasant guy who was happy to answer my questions.

I highly recommend Dan Bailey's eBook, X Series Unlimited, available on Amazon. It's much easier to understand than the Fuji manual, and it offers some great tips and tricks. While others have suggested Capture One Express/Fuji (and I agree that it's an excellent RAW converter), the latest version of Lightroom CC Classic has been vastly improved to better handle Fuji's RAW files, which might explain why the full version of Capture One (v12/Fuji) is now half price. Capture One is excellent, but you'll be facing a fairly steep learning curve, especially if you already know your way around LR. Another alternative is to use Iridient Transformer on those rare cases with challenging, extra fine details. Transformer can be installed as a LR plugin, and it will convert your Fuji RAF files to DNG which can then be processed in LR. But the really good news about your new XT-30 is that the Fuji jpeg files are so good, that in many cases you might not have to bother with Fuji's RAW files. If you get Dan Bailey's book, he'll explain why. Anyway, welcome to the Fuji Fan Club.

Yes, I know there are shortcuts to the Sony menu system and that once you get familiar with it, you can make adjustments quickly. However, Fuji bodies are known for their "analog" controls. For example, I can adjust my aperture by simply turning the ring on the lens while never taking my eye off the EVF. Same for exposure comp, shutter speed and ISO...just turn a knob while looking through the EVF. Perhaps that's why those of us who have been shooting for years and are used to manually controlling our cameras find Fuji so intuitive and easy to use. But as you say, either camera is an excellent one. I just fell in love with how the Fuji controls work so intuitively.

Yes, I also shot with the Nikon D750 and Nikon's pro glass. I added a Fuji XE-1 then XT-1 and found myself shooting mostly with my Fuji. Eventually, I sold all my Nikon gear and moved up to the XT-2 and finally XT-3. I kept my XT-2 as a backup body and still shoot with it. For me, the main improvement with the XT-3 is its auto focus speed and accuracy, but the IQ of its images is not demonstrably better than the XT-2. The other main difference is the XT-3's vastly improved video capabilities. So unless you shoot moving wildlife, sports and video, I'm not sure the upgrade from the XT-2 to the XT-3 is worth it.

I've been a Fuji shooter for three years after switching from full frame Nikon. The new XT-30 looks like a great camera with most of the features of the more expensive XT-3. For travel I'd recommend three Fuji zooms: 10-24, 18-55 and 55-200. All sharp, reasonably priced (buy the 18-55 with body for extra savings) and relatively small and light. As an alternative, you have Fuji's larger, faster zooms, or you have a choice of their very fast primes or much smaller f/2 primes. How many more choices do you need? But I would try to get both the Fuji and Sony bodies in your hands and go through the basic controls (shutter speed, ISO, aperture) and see what feels best. I teach photography to beginners and find my Sony students are always struggling with their cameras trying to to find there way through the menu to make the most basic adjustments.

A couple of years ago I did a cross country trip including the Grand Canyon and most of the national parks in Utah with both my Nikon D750 with all pro glass plus my Fuji XT-1 with 10-24, 18-55 and 55-200. As the trip progressed, I shot the Fuji more and more. Even though I had the convenience of traveling in my own car, I found myself grabbing the Fuji because it was so much lighter and smaller. At one point I took identical shots of the same landscape scene with the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 vs. the Fuji 55-200 and then compared them in LR. While I could tell a slight difference in IQ, the Fuji image was very, very good. When I got back home I discovered that many of my best shots were with the Fuji....mainly because it was so much easier to use even on short hikes. As a result of that trip I sold all my Nikon gear (which I loved) and traded up to the Fuji XT-2 and their faster zooms plus primes. I now shoot entirely with the XT-3 and XT-2. As a retired photojournalist who now shoots and creates large fine art prints, I couldn't be happier with Fuji. And just out of curiosity, I played with Nikon's new Z6 mirrorless system, but while I liked the feel of it, it is still bigger and heavier than my Fuji gear. By the way, I also found that my work improved once I settled on using my Fuji exclusively.

What is your minimum shutter speed setting when in #1?

This was one of my first Fuji X series lenses and one of the reasons why I eventually switched from Nikon to an all Fuji system. It is reasonably priced, sharp, compact and nearly indestructible. (I accidentally dropped it 3-feet onto a hardwood floor.) I once did a direct comparison with my Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 and found it to be as sharp at f/8 and very close at f/5.6 up to about 180mm. And at 200mm it’s still extremely good for printing 17x22” prints. While selling all my Nikon gear allowed me to invest in nearly all the X lenses, including the spectacular 50-140 f/2.8, the 55-200 is still my go-to lens for travel or hiking. You’ve made a good decision.

Yes, I have that lens also. It's becoming my favorite. Can focus within inches of your subject, it's fast (f/1.4) and tack sharp!

Excellent camera with highly improved auto focus over the XT-2. For street photography I'd recommend the very competent and compact 18-55mm f/2.8-4. But I also found the 23mm f/1.4 and 35mm f/2 to be slightly sharper and better in low light situations. I have found that the camera's jpegs using Fuji's film simulations, especially B&W, to negate the need to shoot and process RAW files for street or event shooting. For landscape situations with high dynamic range (dark shadows and hot highlights) I still shoot RAW but often find the Fuji jpegs to be just as good even after meticulous processing of the RAW files. Have fun. It's a fantastic camera.