I will be going an a trip/tour to Costa Rica in March.

I will taking my D7500 with my Tamron 18-400 lens. But I would like to have a focal length (600-800?) capability as well (rental).

I thought about a teleconverter but haven’t see any one that would work. Nikon ones are for Nikon lenses only and the two Tamron offerings only work with specific Tamron lenses - not mine.

Unless someone knows of a teleconverter that would work I have three options.
1. Rent a Nikon teleconverter and also bring my Nikon 70-300 lens. Relatively inexpensive.
2 Rent a Nikon longer (>400) telephoto lens. Very expensive.
3. Rent a Tamron longer (>400) telephoto lens. Less expensive than #2 more expensive than #1.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I tried some of them.

I am using LR. Unfortunately JD750's (Name_10yr, Name_12yr) doesn't seem to work. LR is age agnostic when doing facial recognition. I select one picture of my daughter, label it, and LR will identify (almost) all of the other pictures of her ranging from baby to adult. It misses a few, and even identifies some of my wife (her mother) as her.

Labeling on the picture (markie1425's suggestion) would be great if I didn't have ~1200 prints, and if I knew the dates on all of them. Most of these were in boxes that have been there for as long as 30 years and very few dates on them. My bad for not being more attentive when we initially got them back from developing. :(

I will investigate Google Photos, but I primarily use LR.

Thanks.

I have a ton of scanned pictures of my daughter from pre-digital days. Unfortunately they were scanned haphazardly. Given most photo services can do facial recognition is anyone aware of an app that could scan through a collection of pictures of a person growing up and sort them approximately by age? Obviously no specific dates but maybe by phases - baby, toddler, grade school, teen, etc?

One could go through and identify and label one or two for each category but then let app do the rest automatically? AI?

OK, so I apologize if I violated convention by not replying immediately. I was asking a question not quizzing anyone. I usually get many responses to my questions over several days so wanted to wait until I've seen all of them. I also don't necessarily want to add to everyone's email load by just replying with just thanks. I would hope that that is somewhat assumed. So in advance I do find this forum very useful and have a great respect for all of you and your expertise, and thank you for your past and future responses.

My "guru" credentials are not in photography. I was in the data storage business for 40+ years designing and managing the design of HD & SSD drives.

Is there a difference between using exposure compensation vs. just changing aperture and/or shutter speed to accomplish the same effect?

Last week I tried doing some bird photography. While I didn’t fail miserably my results were not as good as a lot of my other work

Used a Nikon D7500 with my Tamron 18-400 lens. Most shots in Aperture priority mode. A bright sunny day.

I think my dissatisfaction was result of not best settings for ISO, Auto Focus Mode, Area, Exposure Matrix, Single Shot, Continuous, etc.

Any suggestions on best baseline settings for this. I realize that they will vary depending on subject, light, distance, etc. But what would settings be a good place to start.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Recently added a CPL filter to my equipment.

Wondering how to best use it when situation is right. There doesn’t seem to be any markings or indicator on the filter that would show a “home” position, i.e. minimum/no polarization.

So I’m guessing it’s just visual. You look through the viewfinder (DSLR) and rotate the filter ring until you see the effects/result you want.

Is that correct or am I missing something?

The Tamron 18-400 would be a good possibility. It’d worked well for me in a number of different shooting environments.

Correct. I have a HP Laptop and can access the C: drive from the bottom of the laptop by unscrewing a couple of screws. There are probably some smaller computers/laptops where that might not be easy or even possible. I actually replaced my C: HD with an SSD about a year or so ago. The improvement in performance is impressive.

I bought two internal HDs that are the same size as my C: drive (1TB). I installed them in a SATA to USB enclosure (Sabrent). On a biweekly basis I alternately clone my C: drive to one of the enclosures. If my C: drive gets corrupted or crashes I can replace it with the most recently cloned drive (after removing it from the enclosure), and I’m up and running again. Worst case I’ve lost two weeks of data (but actually I back up to the cloud new/changed files daily). So no need to reinstall any programs. If the C: was just corrupted then I can clone back to it and it becomes one of my biweekly backups. If it had crashed then dispose of it and buy a new one for the backups.

This saved me several times over the years.

I am using BBF successfully. Wondering though if I use Nikon (wired) remote release will BBF still function properly (i.e. remote release will not cause refocusing)?

Thanks all for your responses. And I agree that wanting to know how all the modes work and what effect EC has on them is NOT a useless distraction. I believe the better the understanding of my cameras and how they operate makes me a better photographer (at least technically, composition is a whole different subject).

I have a Nikon D7500 but I believe that the answer will be the same for any camera.

When I use exposure compensation say to
underexpose by 1 stop, which of the three light controlling parameters are changed- aperture, shutter speed, or ISO?

Does that depend on which mode I am in (A, S, M or P) or would it be the same regardless?

Thanks.

I'm wanting to buy some filters (CPL, ND) for my Tamron 18-400. Looking at Amazon there is a range of filters friced from $20 to $100s. The reviews on this seem to have the same percentages of poor to good regardless of price.

Should I opt for the cheaper ones, expensive ones or maybe somewhere in the middle. What brands would you pros recommend?

Thanks.

Manual would work for a single shot. But when he’s panning and shooting multiple shots in burst mode of a moving bird or animal the distance would change and require refocusing. So I’m guessing AFC (auto focus continuous).