Maybe some of you Lightroom experts can help me with this. I have found a way in which Lightroom is destructive every time. I need a way to avoid it.
When I make edits in LRCC, they show up in the History in Develop mode. I can always click on Reset to go back to the original.
BUT, if I send the image to Photoshop and make changes, and then save to LRCC, none of my edits in LR and in PS are visible in the History. And I cannot reset to the original any more. And if I cannot go back to the original, isn't this destructive?
What I would really like to do is to be able to work on an image in LR, send it to PS for the things like cloning that PS is better for, save to LR and STILL have all of my edits, made preferably both in PS and LR, but at least in LR. If I do not like the result of this work, I would like to be able to go back to the original, by pushing the reset button.
How, if at all, can this be done?

I will ALWAYS use both Raw and Jpeg when taking pictures of sporting events.
The explanation is a bit lengthy, so have patience.
I shoot Olympus E-M 1ii (but the conditions would be the same with my E-M10ii). I do so because these are lighter and the lenses are smaller, lighter, and cheaper than those on a full frame.
They both have a m4/3 sensor, which is smaller than full frame, of course. This means that with the crop factor, a 2.8 aperture on the Olympus will have a depth of field comparable to f/5.6 on a full frame. (someone please correct me if this is a false assumption.) What this means is that with an f/2.8 lens, I cannot sufficiently defocus the background.
My solution is to use primes, 45mm f/1.8 for basketball, and 75mm f/1.8 for soccer, lacrosse, etc. these will give me (unless I am mistaken, and if so please correct me) the depth of field equivalent of a 2.8 on full frame.
But to get to the point---why use Jpeg as well as Raw?
Because both of these cameras have a digital zoom which doubles the size of the picture (or for purists, it narrows the field of view), but only in Jpeg format. This means that on a m4/3 sensor with the crop factor, the 45mm equals 90mm in raw and 180mm with the digital zoom (on full frame); the 75mm equals 150mm in raw and 300mm in jpeg (again relation to full frame equivalents. With the digital zoom, it appears to double the outside dimension, so that the content is four times as large (2x2=4).
Some of my assumptions about the resizing may not be accurate, and I might lose something from the in camera resizing, but it is clear that the Jpegs have far more resolution than the Raws cropped to the same size.
So, why do I capture Raw images as well? Because when the action comes closer to me, the Jpegs would have me too close to get it all in.
So what I have is a lens with effectively two lengths. This is not as good as having a zoom, of course. But I have a kit which is far lighter and far less expensive than full frame would be. I can carry the camera and lens easily with a wrist strap for several hours. And I am far more mobile and responsive than I would be with bulkier gear.

There are two things that have worked for me in such situations.
1. Put camera in burst mode. Take four or five pictures of the same scene. Merge them in lightroom or photoshop. Since noise is random, I believe, the major elements common to all pictures will be kept, but noise will be much reduced, but not entirely eliminated.
2. A plug-in will help. Nik collection has one. I have been very pleased with a Topaz plug-in, AI Clear. It works miracles, and also sharpens.

HI, John,
You could just send me a check and I will send the flash and the extension tubes ASAP.
My address is 1230 White Birch Lane, Carlisle, PA 17013

To simplify communications, you can use my email: rhyne@dickinson.edu

Yours, George Rhyne

Hi, Mike,
You could just send me a check and I will send the loupe.
My address is 1230 White Birch Lane, Carlisle, PA 17013

To simplify communications, you can use my email: rhyne@dickinson.edu

Yours, George Rhyne

Hi, John Watson,
I will be delighted to send you the two items mentioned above. I have not done this sort of trading before, so you will have to tell me where I go wrong.
You can send me a check or pay the $190 via Pay Pal.
I assume it is prudent to wait for one of these to arrive before sending you the items. Is this how it works?
And I have a little connector which will connect the flash to an e-mount camera like the A6000. Would you want that too? I'll send it along if it would be useful to you.
If you get back to me today, I may not be able to respond until tomorrow. But be assured that since you are the first to make an offer, I will reserve these items for you.
Yours, George Rhyne

All items are mint or like new. I will pay postage in continental US.
I have not advertised anything before on UHH; I suppose you contact me via my handle on the site.

Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR DI LD-IF F/MAXXUM with caps
Original price: $499.00 ; asking $225.00


SONY 50 mm f/1.8 DT SAM
Original cost $143.00; asking $65.00


SONY A NEX CAMERA MOUNT ADAPTER #LAEA2 with caps
Original price $263.95; asking $125

TOKINA 11-16 mm f/2.8 AT-X PRO DX AUTOFOCUS LENS
Original price $659.00; asking $275.00

SONY HVL F43 AM Hotshoe clip-on flash with adapter for A series bodies
Original cost $318.00; asking $150.00

PROOPTIC Auto Extension Tube Set for Sony A (13mm, 20mm, 36 mm)
Original cost $84.95; asking $40.00. All auto functions work.

Other
Hoodman compact Hoodloupe 3.2” LCD Loupe
Original cost $99.99; asking $45.00

I have used two solutions with success. The first is a rice sock. Take an athletic sock (with no holes, of course) and fill with rice (uncooked, of course) and make a knot in the opening.
The second is even better, more useful, and light enough and small enough to carry in your bag. Take the athletic sock, find its mate. Fold mate and insert into original sock. Fold back the opening of the original sock, so that the whole item now has the same length as your foot. This works well. An added bonus is that if you get your feet wet, you will always have a dry pair of socks to change into.

My pocket camera--the one I always have with me--is a panasonic lumix zs50. I chose it because of the 12 mp sensor. The megapixels are bigger than those on the other zs models. I chose the zs line for its good optica and very long zoom. I have gotten some very good pictures with it, when used within its limits. For single shots I would not go above ISO 800. But, if you use the burst function and combine the images in LR or Ps, you can go higher. As I understand it, noise is random. By combining images, the random elements are not recorded in the final image, giving less visible noise.
I used it fairly extensively on a trip to Kenya. While shooting scenes of village life along the road from our vehicle more discretely than with my Olympus with a telephoto, I got lots of good pictures. If you want to see some of them, look at my "drive-by shootings" in the Kenya album on my Flickr page (flickr.com/photos/gnrhyne). These were taken on bouncy roads at a shutter speed of 1/1000. I have made some good images 11x14 cropping away more than half of the original.
The macro function is amazingly good.
The camera is small, the batteries last a long time.
I find that I take more good photos with the camera I have with me than the camera that is on a shelf at home.
Anyway, I am sure you will find something suitable for your needs. Have a great trip!

My sincere thanks to all who have given me advice. You have been a big help.

Many thanks. As for now this seems to be the simplest method.

Thanks, I think. I already have a Flickr account. But I would only want some (sports pictures) to be downloaded, not everything I have ever posted over the last six years. And I would want them to be downloaded in a size that could be printed, say a 5x7. Can this be done from Flickr?

Hi, all!
I need advice. I have been taking photographs of the basketball games at my local college. After a couple of years doing this, I have gotten results that, although they may not be up to pro level, nonetheless satisfy me.

I would like to share my better images with the players. I need a program where they can not only look at the pictures, but also might be able to download them and print them on their own.

What is the best and simplest to use program I can get for this job?

Additionally, I have no interest in selling the images. I am happy to give them away to the players and coaches. Are there any legal issues I should worry about?

Thanks in advance for input.

If you are on auto ISO, you might have aimed the camera at a very dark object before focussing on the bird. If you half pressed to get exposure lock, you would get the correct ISO for the dark object. Then to compensate when aiming at bird, you would already have the high ISO and have to have the f/22 to compensate. It is very easy to let the camera droop and half press when your attention is distracted or you change positions, or try to get a handkerchief or something else from a pocket.