Thanks for stating this. How hard is it to understand that the lens focal length is determined by it's physical dimensions, not whether it will be used on an APS-c sensor or a 35mm sensor. (Or a 4x5 cut film holder for that matter.) The camera marketers used the idea of "a 'crop' lens of 50mm is equal to 35mm on a 'full-frame' camera." No it isn't. Yes, the angle of intercept is (More or less), but the lens is still the same. The aperture is the same, etc.

Rather than all this nonsense, take your lens and use it and see what it will do on your camera.

We get a lot of poor folk with questions like "If I use my new Wizibangi 70mm 3.5 lens on my Gargantuan 4.38G camera will it become 140mm? or just 35mm. And what about the aperture? Will it be 1.75 (Remember he doesn't understand apertures yet) or 7.0? Etc.

If you want a lens with a metal mount, buy a Pentax. (At least, I think they still do.)

I feel your pain. LOL I was completely frustrated with Affinity until I discovered that I had to "Develop" the raw image before it would become easy to work with. I do continue to use Bridge stand alone because it has an ability to cull various levels more than any other product I've seen, including LR.

I would like to see Serif (Affinity) make a product that competes and betters Bridge, but . . .

Nothing else in Affinity seems difficult to me--I've used Photoshop for over 20 years. PS does what it says, mostly, but not as well as others. For example, the Affinity "In-painting" brush and Healing brush are much better than those in PS. Photoshop now seems clumsy and even painful. Partly that is because Photoshop is a hodge-podge of mods and bug-fixes built on 20+ year old programming whereas Affinity and ON1 to a large degree are new programming and up to modern standards.

Actually there are improvements to be made in Affinity. They feed out updates regularly. I only decided to try the built in batch processing the other day. I wanted to sharpen about 70 images and then export them for tablet and smartphone--so jpeg. Turns out either Affinity batch process won't do the sharpening or I just haven't figured it out.

Too bad you don't like post processing. All the old great photographers spent many more hours in the darkroom and retouching table than they did behind the camera. It is a venue to turn "reality" into what your mind actually saw.

I shoot a Rokinon fisheye, originally on my Nikons but now, with adapter, on my Sonys. Ken Rockwell mentioned the "Fisheye Hemi" software and I've used it to remove the barrel distortion on some shoot, making a 180 degree wide angle shot possible. (Not bad for $30)

The P900 suffers from the same malady as all of the extreme zoom cameras do. In order to get that zoom length they must find ways of "tricking" the laws of physics. One of those ways is a very small sensor, not suited for astral photography.

That's not Nikon's fault, it just follows from the way the world is. (I shoot Sonys and the Sony extreme zooms have the same problem.

Ho-hum! Great shot, as usual. LOL

Great name as well, translates as something like "sweet flower". And she looks it. I'm probably just fooling myself, but I'm sure I see some Japanese ancestry--not much but some.

I usually try not to have limbs pointed toward the camera because of the distortion, but you handled it well in your habitually skilled way.

That Nikon is a good lens, often was the kit lens in the past.

However, the lens is unlikely to be the reason for pixelation. You should have no trouble with that. I've noticed that many PP programs import the image and show it on screen as large height and width but 72 ppi. They depend on you to change those parameters to 300ppi, which will also reduce the format to a more manageable size. If you crop the 72ppi to 8x10 and try to print it, that might be the source of the problem.

That Tamron has a good reputation. I doubt that's the source of your problems.

I usually crop to 11x14 x 300 but what I include in that depends on the image. It is also not a hard and fast rule. Some images look better at 8x16 or some other format. The image rules.

Lots of good ones, but I have liked and used Acer, Dell, HP and Lenovo. Liked Acer and Dell. HP has deteriorated in the last decade and Lenovo tends to be a business computer. Costco had a deal on a Dell Inspire 13 inch with SSD 8gb Ram and I7 cpu for about $700. Fairly high power so I can do some light PP, weighs only about 3 lb. Small enough to easily carry in camera case and it has been great.

I also carry a tiny USB hard disk, so I have two copies of everything. (Large thumbdrive would do the same with less weight, but I have the disk.) When I get home and turn on the notebook, it automatically bonds to my big desktop as a network so I can easily transfer anything from/to either one. Built in function of Windows 10

I feel for you. Your wife will notice though when the city can't pay to repair the sewers and the streets. But she'll really pay attention as she rolls up the sleeping bags in your new tent every morning.

On the other hand, the Nikon D850 would warm your heart.

Best advice I've seen here. I lived there for eight years, USAF + College and have family. (If you are male, <45 and good looking and have money, maybe I'll set you up with one of my nieces. LOL)

But seriously, cherry blossom time is usually in the last week or so of March and peak in the first week of April. Keep Googling for it and they usually begin predicting in late December or early January.

Cherry blossoms hold immense symbolism for Japanese because their life begins and ends so quickly, but their beauty is so sublime when it peaks.

Oh how I wish I were there on the plains of Musashino, viewing the blossoms.

Cameta Camera always seems to have really good prices on Nikon Refurbs. I have purchased four refurbs from them. All excellent. They also give a full year warranty. I had a D7200 (A D7100 before that but my daughter begged it off of me.) Nikon factory refurb from them and it was excellent. Your lenses will do well on it. Don't get hooked into that FF thing without a lot better reason

You'll get no argument from me. So-called "full-frame" is only called that for the benefit of us formerly 35mm shooters. Real full-frame for me would be 4x5 like my old Toyo View or my almost as old Linhof. APS-C allows me to regularly print 16x24 and 20x30. I try to crop mostly before I push the button, but if I do crop heavily in PP then yes 35mm does give a better result.

Smaller sensors will probably pass away as they carry the liabilities of cellphone size sensors.

The sensors will get better. APS-C will not go away. It is just much easier on the back, shoulder and bank account and the quality is good as attested by my invitations to shows and occasional unsolicited sales.

I have become appreciative of Affinity Photo. It does just about everything that one could ask for and some of it better than Photoshop. But today I ran into one limitation. The batch processing is extremely limited. I wanted to apply a small amount of sharpening to each of about 70 images and then have it export the result to a medium quality jpeg. Couldn't find a way to include the sharpening. It did the export, but never reported it's success. The results were there in the named folder, but the program kept churning away.

I'm still in love with the in-painting brush which sweeps away electric wires from the building facade so much easier and better than Photoshop.

I'm not a fan of blown out highlights.