85-105 is just about right.
Your lens is perfectly fine unless you just want an unnecessary excuse to buy one.
To render a natural perspective in a standard portrait, twice the "normal" focal length for your format is what I learned in school .
The part most people need to learn is lighting and posing.
There are virtually tons of lighting tip resources.
I use flash and my default place to send people for basic lighting is Strobist 101.
There are even more great places on FB, like Learn to Light - An OCF Lighting Community hosted by Francisco Joel Hernandez.
Hopefully someone else will chime in and share other good suggestions.

Yes, this, exactly.
I shoot a lot of events with people moving about, where stitching a pano is not really practical, though I have shot whole rooms stitched to get the feel for the venue.

Yes, but it’s heavier, more expensive and isn't as wide on the short end.
On the wide end, 6 millimeters makes a bigger difference than the long end.

Love these!
Id venture to says skill, timing, composition and technique are more important than equipment.

There are several pop-up flash diffusers on the market to help with lighting quality.
Interesting article here: http://aboutphotography-tomgrill.blogspot.com/p/lighting-using-pop-up-flash.html
You do lose power, but when used close to the subject, they will be better than a straight, unmodified flash.
Model #2 proves bigger is better- read the article.

Seems like a decent performer with a nice focal range.
I tried one quite a while ago and was pleasantly surprised.
It's light weight (14.8 oz./420g) is partly due to the plastic lens mount.
I've seen two of these with broken mounts- from operators dropping the camera.
One thought: the break-away lens mount may have saved the camera from damage.
(There are youtube videos on how to replace with metal mounts.)
KEH used prices HERE. $105-$143.

For a little more $ and 3.5 oz more weight , you could get a little extra range with the 18-140 which has a metal lens mount. KEH used prices HERE. $180-$190

A discussion last November between these two lenses on the 'Hog HERE

This.

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Keep in mind, your D3300 has no built-in AF motor so it only autofocuses with AF-S and older professional AF-I lenses, same as the D5000 series.. the D7000 series and up have a screw drive focus motor in the body that work with most types of lenses.

With older, screw-type Nikon AF and AF-D (non AF-S) lenses, you’ll have to focus them by hand.
That’s not hard with film cameras with their micro prism focusing aids, but I’ve never been good at manual focus with a DSLR.

None listed here on the ‘hog lately.

Adorama has a used 50mm G type here: https://www.adorama.com/us1547601.html


KEH has a few G type 50mm lenses: https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-nikkor-2199-50-mm-f-1-8-wide-angle-lens-for-nikon-f.html

Another option here-I’ve never used one but Yongnou makes a 50mm that I believe will AF with your camera.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1267133-REG/yongnuo_yn50mm_1_8_n_yn_50mm_f_1_8_lens.html

The 50mm on your DX sensored camera will make a nice short portrait length lens.

To check for sensor dust, I fill the frame with a blank piece of paper and shoot out of focus at the smallest aperture ( over expose by a stop or two). Using the smallest aperture makes all the spots more defined.

Some people use a blank sky, but birds, bugs or aircraft may confuse you and it doesn’t work well at night.

Doesn’t matter what shutter setting you use, the dirt is stuck to your sensor, so camera shake won’t matter.

In your case, looking at the image at high magnification on your computer would probably be best but scrolling around at a high magnification on the camera’s display works just as well for me and is a lot faster.
You’ll be able to see a shadow caused by any artifact in front of your sensor.

My photography is usually done at the wider end of the aperture scale and any debris on the sensor rarely bothers my images. It’s surprising what I find when I do this check before any big jobs.

Use “quote reply” option so we know which post you’re addressing.

I only used the super speed while at the USAF photo school in Colorado back in 1974. Fancier isn't always better, i suppose. The official medium format camera of that time was a Koni-Omega Rapid. An odd design which i disliked.

This is really interesting.
Wasn't aware there was a magazine before the Graphmatic.
Will look more. Fascinating mechanism.

Different subject- i thought the shutter cocking of the SuperSpeed Graphic was kind of cool. Grab the “lens hood” and rotate to cock.

You’re…..uhh, welcome.

As have I.