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Posts for: CraigFair
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Jan 29, 2015 12:08:06   #
SonnyE wrote:
Any idea why that would be, Larry?
I should think (dangerous proposition for me) that a Nikon TC would be built to work with Nikon (F) mounts, and also to have the contacts (electrical) feed through to allow lenses to function in front of it.

I have toyed with the idea of a TC, and a 2X would have been my pick, but have never seen one outside of a display case.
(I don't fondle things, nor women, I can't afford.)
:D

SonnyE thank you for stopping by and at my age there's only 1 woman I can afford.:-P
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 12:00:37   #
mcveed wrote:
The glass doesn't protrude any further on the 2x than on the 1.4x. You will, of course, have no autofocus and the image in the viewfinder will be quite dark. I'd recommend renting or borrowing one for a trial before investing.


I have a Tamron 2x TC I use right now and get OK shots. I am of course looking for the Tack Sharp shots in Deep Sky photos. Anything else is worthless. In DS I have to got to a bright star and get focus in Live View Mag to 10x.
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 11:38:38   #
brucew29 wrote:
I will need to go somewhere else to do Saturn, Jupiter, or deep sky photography... I have too much light pollution in my neighborhood with neighbors security lights on... Moon shots are not affected because it is so bright...

Yea I hear you, I have a shopping center 2 blocks away. The whole western half of the Universe is gone.
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 11:35:32   #
OddJobber wrote:
Ooh. Sounds like Sigma or Tamron, in which the Nikon TC's will not work anyway. Probably have to go with Kenko or Tamron TC's.

But... at 600mm X2 you're at a scary long 1200mm which comes with scary difficult problems with camera shake. And you'll be shooting manual focus at maximum f/11. I'd go with a 1.4 TC for 840mm at f/6.7 or 1.7 TC for 1020mm at f/8. And then only if you really need to shoot a nude beach from a half mile upriver. :P


Hi OJ, one of the guys here at HHG is using the Nikon 1.4x TC with the Tamron 150-600mm and getting good results on a tripod. Does the glass in the 2x protrude more than the 1.4x. The glass in the T 150-600mm is set back quite a bit.
I don't handhold that lens unless I have to. Mostly use it Manually at night on a Telescope drive I've modified. Granted f/11 needs a higher ISO but my D600 handles it quite well. That lens tends to overexpose anyway.
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 10:41:02   #
brucew29 wrote:
Thanks again Craig... I only had one Moon shoot this year... need to get out and try to best my best with the Tamron 150-600mm... maybe when the weather gets warmer and clearer I'll tote my Dynamax 8 out and try some more Moon closeups... see my Moon closeups that I took with my Dynamax 8 below....


Those are definitely WOW shots Bruce.
Are you going to point the 8" at Saturn & Jupiter???
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Jan 29, 2015 10:33:25   #
OddJobber wrote:
TC 20E I and II are the same. When Nikon introduced AF-S lenses, the TC 20E AF-I was renamed TC 20EII AF-S.

The 20EIII added an aspherical element to "virtually eliminate coma and other aberrations, especially at wide apertures". I have no experience with that one and don't feel a current need for a 2X, but if I did I think the price difference ($500 for III, under $200 for the II) would decide, then deal with coma in post.


Thank you very much OddJobber. I'll be shooting with a 150-600mm Lens.
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 09:14:22   #
Erv wrote:
Just a quick shot before the clouds moved in.:)

Nikon D600
Sig 150-500
F6.3 EV -2
ISO 400
SS 1/1250

Made it B/W
Erv


Really really nice Erv, best moon shot I've seen in a while.
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 08:55:28   #
Nikon TC-20E II 2x AF-S Teleconverter
Nikon has 3 versions of this TC, what are the upgrades all about.
Besides the price differences.
Why is II better than I and so on with III???
Craig
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Jan 29, 2015 08:30:23   #
Leitz wrote:
I find auto-ISO only useful in a limited number of situations, but quite valuable for those situations. As with any other feature in a modern camera, one would be remiss not to at least experiment to understand it.


I find this comment the most useful of all.
Craig
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Jan 28, 2015 17:29:17   #
tainkc wrote:
Yeah, big brother, I took a moon shot. Big deal, right? Well, let me tell you; It was pitch black out and I shot this with my Tamron 28-105 using my triggers and 2 Minolta speedlights, all hand held. One flash was on camera, the other, I was holding in my left had extended away from my body. The sky was kind of blown out, so I toned it down some in lightroom.

Beat that, Erv!


Very nice shot and processing TA.
Craig
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Jan 28, 2015 12:57:13   #
Frizzen wrote:
Just had to snap a picture of our moon, Juipter & it's moons and Orion.
This all handheld with Canon SX 50 stand alone. Minor pp done.


I am so impressed with the Jupiter and Moons shot I have to ask what settings did you use???
I've been trying to duplicate that shot with contrast on Jupiter and still have the Moons visible.
Craig
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Jan 28, 2015 12:44:50   #
pjhinde wrote:
Sorry but your talking above my head, what is PSE12? Would that be Photo Shop Editor V12?


Real close PJ it's Adobe Photoshop Elements.
Craig
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Jan 28, 2015 12:41:34   #
Oknoder wrote:
The more and more examples I see the more I believe I need that lens, especially for when the birds return this Spring.

Matthew

Another great shot by Bruce, nice work.
And to Oknoder, Get the Lens you will not regret it. I have it, and you can see how well it preforms in low light by my Comet Lovejoy pic.
And some of my Backyard Bird pics.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-278001-1.html
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Jan 28, 2015 12:07:11   #
pjhinde wrote:
I know there are many issues with the quality of this shot but I thought you might find it interesting.

Nice job PJ. You're getting the hang of it now.
Craig
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Jan 27, 2015 13:01:55   #
toast wrote:
For the majority of situations, I know the aperture and shutter speed I would prefer. When in manual mode, why not set them both to your preference and then let the camera choose the aperture? (ISO on Auto)

Doing so should yield a nicely exposed picture. And if the ISO is higher than you prefer, you can tweak one or both. (shutter/aperture) And of course if the camera chooses an ISO of 100 you would need to check to make sure the pictures are not overexposed.

Choosing all three is just guessing at what you will get in the way of exposure. But of course you can choose all three and start making adjustments from that point.
For the majority of situations, I know the apertur... (show quote)


No reason not to put ISO in auto if you want to.
In settings for Auto ISO you can set Limits for lower and upper Auto ISO.
Example: 100 and 800.
Craig
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