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Nikon TC-20E II 2x AF-S Teleconverter???
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Jan 29, 2015 08:55:28   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
Nikon TC-20E II 2x AF-S Teleconverter
Nikon has 3 versions of this TC, what are the upgrades all about.
Besides the price differences.
Why is II better than I and so on with III???
Craig

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Jan 29, 2015 10:22:56   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
TC 20E I and II are the same. When Nikon introduced AF-S lenses, the TC 20E AF-I was renamed TC 20EII AF-S.

The 20EIII added an aspherical element to "virtually eliminate coma and other aberrations, especially at wide apertures". I have no experience with that one and don't feel a current need for a 2X, but if I did I think the price difference ($500 for III, under $200 for the II) would decide, then deal with coma in post.

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Jan 29, 2015 10:33:25   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
OddJobber wrote:
TC 20E I and II are the same. When Nikon introduced AF-S lenses, the TC 20E AF-I was renamed TC 20EII AF-S.

The 20EIII added an aspherical element to "virtually eliminate coma and other aberrations, especially at wide apertures". I have no experience with that one and don't feel a current need for a 2X, but if I did I think the price difference ($500 for III, under $200 for the II) would decide, then deal with coma in post.


Thank you very much OddJobber. I'll be shooting with a 150-600mm Lens.
Craig

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Jan 29, 2015 11:19:09   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
CraigFair wrote:
I'll be shooting with a 150-600mm Lens.

Ooh. Sounds like Sigma or Tamron, in which the Nikon TC's will not work anyway. (EDIT: Looks like I was wrong about this. See postings below. :oops: )Probably have to go with Kenko or Tamron TC's.

But... at 600mm X2 you're at a scary long 1200mm which comes with scary difficult problems with camera shake. And you'll be shooting manual focus at maximum f/11. I'd go with a 1.4 TC for 840mm at f/6.7 or 1.7 TC for 1020mm at f/8. And then only if you really need to shoot a nude beach from a half mile upriver. :P

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Jan 29, 2015 11:35:32   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
OddJobber wrote:
Ooh. Sounds like Sigma or Tamron, in which the Nikon TC's will not work anyway. Probably have to go with Kenko or Tamron TC's.

But... at 600mm X2 you're at a scary long 1200mm which comes with scary difficult problems with camera shake. And you'll be shooting manual focus at maximum f/11. I'd go with a 1.4 TC for 840mm at f/6.7 or 1.7 TC for 1020mm at f/8. And then only if you really need to shoot a nude beach from a half mile upriver. :P


Hi OJ, one of the guys here at HHG is using the Nikon 1.4x TC with the Tamron 150-600mm and getting good results on a tripod. Does the glass in the 2x protrude more than the 1.4x. The glass in the T 150-600mm is set back quite a bit.
I don't handhold that lens unless I have to. Mostly use it Manually at night on a Telescope drive I've modified. Granted f/11 needs a higher ISO but my D600 handles it quite well. That lens tends to overexpose anyway.
Craig

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Jan 29, 2015 11:49:46   #
mcveed Loc: Kelowna, British Columbia (between trips)
 
CraigFair wrote:
Hi OJ, one of the guys here at HHG is using the Nikon 1.4x TC with the Tamron 150-600mm and getting good results on a tripod. Does the glass in the 2x protrude more than the 1.4x. The glass in the T 150-600mm is set back quite a bit.
I don't handhold that lens unless I have to. Mostly use it Manually at night on a Telescope drive I've modified. Granted f/11 needs a higher ISO but my D600 handles it quite well. That lens tends to overexpose anyway.
Craig


The glass doesn't protrude any further on the 2x than on the 1.4x. You will, of course, have no autofocus and the image in the viewfinder will be quite dark. I'd recommend renting or borrowing one for a trial before investing.

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Jan 29, 2015 11:52:56   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
CraigFair wrote:
one of the guys here at HHG is using the Nikon 1.4x TC with the Tamron 150-600mm and getting good results on a tripod.


Hmmm, I could be wrong (once), but I thought the Nikon TC has to be modified to mount on the Tamron.

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Jan 29, 2015 12:00:37   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
mcveed wrote:
The glass doesn't protrude any further on the 2x than on the 1.4x. You will, of course, have no autofocus and the image in the viewfinder will be quite dark. I'd recommend renting or borrowing one for a trial before investing.


I have a Tamron 2x TC I use right now and get OK shots. I am of course looking for the Tack Sharp shots in Deep Sky photos. Anything else is worthless. In DS I have to got to a bright star and get focus in Live View Mag to 10x.
Craig

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Jan 29, 2015 12:03:28   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
OddJobber wrote:
Hmmm, I could be wrong (once), but I thought the Nikon TC has to be modified to mount on the Tamron.


Any idea why that would be, Larry?
I should think (dangerous proposition for me) that a Nikon TC would be built to work with Nikon (F) mounts, and also to have the contacts (electrical) feed through to allow lenses to function in front of it.

I have toyed with the idea of a TC, and a 2X would have been my pick, but have never seen one outside of a display case.
(I don't fondle things, nor women, I can't afford.)
:D

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Jan 29, 2015 12:08:06   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
SonnyE wrote:
Any idea why that would be, Larry?
I should think (dangerous proposition for me) that a Nikon TC would be built to work with Nikon (F) mounts, and also to have the contacts (electrical) feed through to allow lenses to function in front of it.

I have toyed with the idea of a TC, and a 2X would have been my pick, but have never seen one outside of a display case.
(I don't fondle things, nor women, I can't afford.)
:D

SonnyE thank you for stopping by and at my age there's only 1 woman I can afford.:-P
Craig

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Jan 29, 2015 12:44:09   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
CraigFair wrote:
SonnyE thank you for stopping by and at my age there's only 1 woman I can afford.:-P
Craig


I am definitely on my last, Craig.
From here on out it's camera's and fishin poles for me. ;)

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Jan 30, 2015 06:28:12   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
CraigFair wrote:
Nikon TC-20E II 2x AF-S Teleconverter
Nikon has 3 versions of this TC, what are the upgrades all about.
Besides the price differences.
Why is II better than I and so on with III???
Craig


In general, with most lenses, a 2x is not going to give great results - the exceptions are the 70-200 F2.8 V II, the 400mm F2.8, the 200mm F2, and possibly the latest version of the 300 F2.8. Biggest issues are the darker viewfinder, slower focusing, and 30%-40% (measurable) loss of detail. If the lens you are using it with has "off the charts" sharpness, then its not so bad.

And to answer your question -the later versions are generally better corrected than the earlier ones.

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Jan 30, 2015 07:07:03   #
DaveHam Loc: Reading UK
 
The latest version of the TC2 from Nikon is probably the best teleconverter on the market for Nikon camera at that magnification. The earlier TC2 version was horribly soft except at very fast exposures in extremely good light.

The current converter is designed to work best with the 2.8 primes on the bodies capable of AF out to F8.

We use it a lot; on average it is a little softer than not using a TC but given the need to work at distance from some subjects it provides a cost effective solution.

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Jan 30, 2015 09:41:54   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
OddJobber wrote:
TC 20E I and II are the same. When Nikon introduced AF-S lenses, the TC 20E AF-I was renamed TC 20EII AF-S.

The 20EIII added an aspherical element to "virtually eliminate coma and other aberrations, especially at wide apertures". I have no experience with that one and don't feel a current need for a 2X, but if I did I think the price difference ($500 for III, under $200 for the II) would decide, then deal with coma in post.


I might add, actually I will add, that there is a running debate of whether the 2x is significantly softer than the 1.4x model. Others can speak more eloquently to this than I can. Just what I have heard.

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Jan 30, 2015 15:25:27   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
IMHO, you are further ahead ( assuming you have a good sensor and decent lens ) by cropping and using specialized interpolation software to build the image size - at least you do not loose light/ISO, or AF speed/accuracy that way !

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