I am a Lightroom/Photoshop user. I have used PS since 1998. However, one of the simplest, fastest image editors I've come across in a long time is Capture One Pro v11. If you shoot raw, it is even better, but it will work with jpeg files - the editing process is exactly the same. It provides excellent results with it's automatic settings for exposure, shadow, highlight, contrast, brightness etc. One button to set those parameters. It takes a little bit to get it set up and understand it's logic, but once you spend a couple of days learning it, you will be able to process your images to a better level of quality than just about anything else.

I recently became reacquainted with it when I purchased a Sony RX10 MIV - which provided an "Express" version of the software. I was getting better results with the limited Express version than my "go to" PS/Lr. You can add handwritten notes, or a text overlay.

Here is a quick example of the overlay approach with an older version - https://blog.phaseone.com/composition-overlay-with-capture-one-pro-7/

The big advantage is that you can shoot raw files which can be adjusted for better results than a jpeg, without giving it a second thought.

You can download a trial from Phase One - https://www.phaseone.com/en/Download.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAiA15vTBRAHEiwA7Snfcxv_1K4axKtceMMCgTtqhin5OoKEJLHs-0JM1xAeRm4naJ1LdbZhwRoCaDUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

They offer a choice of perpetual license for $300, and period upgrades typically cost $120, or you can pay a $20 monthly fee for all updates and upgrades. Over a three year period, Capture One will be upgraded twice, for a total cost of $540, and the monthly plan will cost you $720, making the perpetual license cheaper to purchase.

This image was taken at a nearby river that I often fish. My favorite go to camera is the Canon 5D mark III that has a decent tripod glued to it - so to speak. On this particular day, it was safe at home. I carry my Iphone on the off chance I land a fish, take its picture and release it.
The time of day was at sunrise. I came across this delapidated farm equipment overlooking a section of water flooded by the morning sun. With a burst of shots I took this with the phone and later edited it using Snapseed - a free download. I was reminded it's not always about the equipment we use but the scene we capture.

It appears to me that the B&H ad contradicts itself. As shown in the copy of the ad posted by MT in the main body of the said ad (at the very bottom) B&H says "The item is in pristine condition and INCLUDES THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY". One would presume from this statement it would be the Nikon company one.
However, in the area that shows what is included "in the box" B&H shows something a tad different, this being the lens comes with only a LIMITED 1 YEAR B&H WARRANTY. Doesn't add up, does it😵.
I think that possibly B&H made an error in their posting of this ad and that the last line in the main body of the ad should have been omitted. It appears this ad is for a USA-Nikon lens and not a grey market one. Remove this one line and it would fit the description of grey market.😜
However, saying all that, if the purchaser would have read all the ad the fact that 2 different warranties are shown in the ad should have raised a red flag. A further investigation by contacting B&H would have been advisable in order to clear up the problem. When making any online purchase one MUST read everything posted on the item to make sure you are getting exactly what you want. If all does not appear to be kosher, then one MUST seek further information. But, at the same time the seller has to make sure what is selling is advertised correctly, something that B&H in this case IMHO they failed to do.

LittleRed (Ron)

This will be presumptuous, especially for a newcomer here, but I couldn't help but sympathize with Bill in his desire for a brief, useful introduction to shooting "manual,:" so I thought I'd try writing one. It is below. It goes without saying that I shall be deeply grateful for any corrections and/or additions all the talent here may have:

How to shoot on “manual:”

1. Light comes in packets called “photons.” The more photons that fall on a camera’s sensor, the brighter the image is. If too few photons fall on the sensor, the image is too dark, and we say it is “underexposed.” If too many photons fall on the sensor, the image is too light, and we say it is “overexposed.”

2. When you double the number of photons falling on a camera’s sensor, we say you have increased the exposure by one stop. When you halve the number of photons falling on the sensor, we say you have decreased the exposure by one stop. A one stop change in exposure makes a noticeable difference in the brightness of the image, but it does not double or halve the brightness. Indeed, you usually have a usable image if your exposure is within one stop of the optimum.

3. The sensitivity of the sensor in a camera is governed by the “ISO” setting. Setting the ISO for a low number means it will take more light (more photons) to produce a usable image; setting it for a high number means it will take less light to produce that image. Very high ISO settings, however, are prone to produce noise, so should be avoided unless there is a compelling reason to us them. For most everyday photography, an ISO setting of 200 should be adequate.

4. Once the ISO of the sensor is established, the camera has two controls that determine the brightness of the image: aperture and shutter speed. When you shoot on “P” the camera’s computer adjusts both of these controls to yield a usable image. When you shoot on “M” you adjust the controls manually. When is it to your advantage to do so? There are many circumstances when “M” is best, but perhaps the most common are these: a) your subject is moving rapidly and you need a fast shutter speed to “stop” it, and b) you want to control the “depth of field” (the zone of sharp focus) in your image, and you do this by adjusting the aperture: a large opening (low f-number) produces a shallow field of sharp focus; a small opening (high f-number) produces a deep field of sharp focus.

5. In practice, then, when shooting in the “M” mode, having chosen the ISO you might then choose a trial shutter speed and aperture (f-number) and check the exposure. If the exposure is too low, you can increase it either by reducing the shutter speed or increasing the aperture (by selecting a lower f-number). You continue making these adjustments until your exposure meter tells you you have a suitable exposure. In adjusting shutter speed and aperture, NOTE THAT halving the shutter speed increases exposure by one stop, and doubling the shutter speed decreases exposure by one stop. Similarly with aperture: exposure decreases by one stop when you decrease aperture from f1.0 to f1.4 and from there to f2.0, then f2.8, then f4.0, then f5.6 then f8.0, then f11.0, then f16.0, then f22.0, and then f32.0 (see https://binged.it/2DwwSJ3).