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Posts for: wesm
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Feb 23, 2018 12:34:34   #
I initially bought this pack from B&H I year ago (Feb 15th). See the description here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1163433-REG/lowepro_lp36897_whistler_bp_450_aw.html

I've used it twice.
I'm selling it because it didn't fit me well when loaded (I have some back issues as well), and because I have too many packs.

Retails for $299. $200 OBO. Price includes me shipping it to you UPS ground or equivalent.

Payment via PayPal to me, or good check. I ship when payment clears.

Thanks,
Wes
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Feb 5, 2018 04:21:00   #
burkphoto wrote:
Well, your ORIGINALS remain unchanged. If you drop your Lr subscription, you can still export from Lr with previous stored changes applied.

Software companies are not legally allowed to prevent you from using your data — and they would be stupid to do so, anyway! Your previous edits are accessible, but no changes can be made until you resume paying your $9.99 per month for the Photography Bundle of Lr, Lr CC, Ps, and Br.

Lots of people panic, thinking Adobe is ransoming them or something by charging subscription fees. That's crap. People with the previous Lr 6.x stand-alone version can keep using it until it is inconvenient to do so (meaning their computer OS won't support it any longer, or they need a new feature that wasn't in the original, such as support for a new camera raw profile).

Since I need both Ps and Lr CC, I subscribe. I've used Ps since version 1.0 back in the late 1980s. I used Lr since the first beta test.

I used to skip every other version of Ps, because the Adobe upgrade fees were too expensive. I couldn't afford $300 to $400 for a Ps upgrade, but I can afford $10/month. That's a decent bottle of wine, two or three Starbucks coffees, or four gallons of gas. You can't even buy a roll of film and processing that cheap, these days (That's about $30 if you want prints!).

I've said this before: Digital photography is an expensive hobby. By the time you get the equipment to do it right, a $10/month charge for software licensing is cheap, cheap, cheap! I have a small setup:

iMac $1200
Backup drives $1200
Network infrastructure $550
100Mbps Network access $50/month
Monitor Calibrator Kit $150 (The single most important tool I own!)
Desktop Printer $150
Photo Printer $400
Lumix GH4 $1300
Three lenses $1700
Other items (tripod, flash, filters, case, light stands, exposure targets, shoe mounts, LED lights, memory cards...) about $2000

So another $10 is not a big deal.
Well, your ORIGINALS remain unchanged. If you drop... (show quote)

Four gallons of gas!!!! Not in California
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Feb 5, 2018 04:16:16   #
Grace98 wrote:
Bebu I was with a female friend who's also into photography. She persevered more than me with aperture/shutter priority/bracketing/exposure compensation....and her photos weren't any better than mine. In the end, she too gave up and went to Programme and Auto. I was in San Pedro De Atacama (North Chile) and Easter Island. Places which have been on my bucket list for many years and I know will never go again so wanted to soak up all the scenery and history. When I sort all my pics, might put some on the Photo Section of this site if I think they're decent....
Bebu I was with a female friend who's also into ph... (show quote)


Oh, my. Did you get any good night shots in Atacama?
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Feb 5, 2018 04:12:57   #
glennk wrote:
I tried using live view focusing 2 days ago on the blood moon. As I remember, when I went to zoom in, a white rectangle appeared which I could use the touch screen on the 5D4 to move to the moon, then depressed the magnify button again to zoom in. It was the 1st time I used magnified live view, so my recollection could be fuzzy


Same here. I found it very helpful to get a sharp picture.
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Feb 3, 2018 05:19:09   #
rtryan wrote:
Thanks,
But issue is how to easily get the RAW files from Apple Mac - iCloud to LR catalog. Apple does not want to help Adobe and vice versa. Sure would be great if we had common language that could easily communicate if even digitally


OK, there is a setting in the Preferences dialog for Photos which lets you specify that originals are stored in the System Photo Library for your Mac. Once you check that and everything synchronizes, then you can import those photos into Lightroom, or move them all onto an external drive first, then do the import. There is some restriction on where the system photo library can be, it has to do with how the drive is formatted. But, it basically sounds like you can have Photos just pull them all down, and then you're good to go.
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Feb 2, 2018 00:17:24   #
michealj wrote:
Is this bag still available? Thanks!


I had one PM reply before all the public replies. I'm waiting for his check. If that doesn't happen, I'll go through the other PMs and messages on the board in date order.

One minor complication is that I'm leaving for Iceland in 3 days, and won't be back until the 19th. Yeah, it's a dirty job, but somebody's gotta do it.

Wes
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Feb 1, 2018 01:40:35   #
See this link for more info: https://store.lowepro.com/protactic-450-aw-pixel-camo

I bought this a year ago and have never used it. In fact, the tags are still on it. I have the all-black version, which I like and use heavily. This is a "digital camo" outer fabric.
They're great packs, hold a lot, well-thought-out. I just don't need two of them.

I paid $200 for it brand-new. Give me $75 + shipping, and you have a deal!!

Thanks,
Wes
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Jan 24, 2018 19:37:35   #
Sam Dog wrote:
I will post pictures later as I do not have them with me here at work, but I was wondering if any here use a remote app from their phone? If so how does it work? Do you need to be connected at all times to wi fi? I have not set my camera yet for wifi. I use a Canon 6D. I have two tripods in which one has been modified so I can shoot from (guessing as I haven't fully extended yet) 15 to 30 feet up to get other angles of shots. Anyway, remote app users help me out please and thank you.


Yup. I do. I use both CamRanger, which is expensive, and the $25 knockoff. QdslDashboard is an app that can connect to a little wireless router that you modify by downloading new firmware, and then can control your Canon or Nikon. Both work really well, IF you invest a little time in their usage. Yes WiFi eats batteries, but it is the device that is broadcasting, not your camera. You can disable live view once you have your exposure parameters and focus set, then just take the shots themselves; also, disable loading the entire image, rather just a thumbnail to conserve. They can both do intervalometer-type stuff (star trails or timelapse), and at least one of them can also do focus stacking. You can use either one from either phone or tablet. I don't think it's really any more load on the camera battery than an ordinary (wired) remote trigger.
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Jan 21, 2018 03:47:40   #
Red Sky At Night wrote:
OMG, I've been muddling through the trial subscription of LR for 3 days and I am making very little progress. Yes, I've listened to many of the tutorials. Is there something one of you could recommend for a new beginner? I have managed to import a few photos. One I even love! BUT I want to import more. And I think I'm doing everything I'm supposed to but then I can't find them. Where did they go? What am I doing wrong? Many thanks! (Should probably add that I am using Lightroom Classic CC.)
OMG, I've been muddling through the trial subscrip... (show quote)


I'm surprised no one has mentioned this: If you want to find out where your original file is, just right-click on the image or a thumbnail, and there will be an entry on the pop-up menu that locates the file for you. On Mac, this menu item is "Show in Finder", so it will open up a Finder window on the folder where your file is.

Seems to be a lot of confusion over Import as well. For importing from a camera (card or via usb connection), you always want to COPY to your hard drive. The question is, where does the copy go? When you start the import by choosing the Import Photos and Videos menu item, or by pressing the Import... button in the lower left pane in Library mode, the Import dialog takes over. On the right-hand panel of this dialog, there is a bunch of stuff governing where the copies go (Copy should be highlighted in the top middle of the entire dialog), you can specify a directory to automatically make a backup copy (very handy), and there is a Destination sub-panel that you open by clicking on the little triangle, which reveals a way to navigate to any folder on any of your attached hard drives; whatever folder is highlighted is where the copies will go, but you are free to choose any other folder you can navigate to.

This is all great, except that you have to manually create separate sub-directories for backup copies, otherwise everything will get dumped into one folder, and you won't be able to find anything. I started using PhotoMechanic to import my photos, it lets me mirror my directory structure for originals into the backup directory, and gives me a lot of powerful tools to rename and place things that LR lacks; it also has a much better system for editing metadata, is very well thought-out.
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Jan 19, 2018 13:41:57   #
Creeksong wrote:
Sometimes, my greatest ally is sheer dumb luck. As I got out of the car, "Billie Jean" was blasting at 80 decibels, even though the sound system was was a half a block away. This man was on his own planet. I just grabbed the camera out of the back of the station wagon and had a frantic feast, in sports mode. I know it's good practice to pick the best photo and post only that one, but I just couldn't do it. These are all adjusted a little, for exposure, saturation, contrast, and cropped for interest, aesthetic contrast, and to remove some of the back hatch strut from one that was just too good to throw out. Am posting these just because I like them.D70S with 18-55 1:3.5-5.6
My question is really about levitation photography. I said in my first post that I am on a pretty tight budget, and can't afford Photoshop, but I have purchased a copy of Corel PaintShop Pro Ultimate, with hopes of learning to use transparent layers to do levitation. I asked for technical help at Corel, and they said they don't have a tutorial for that, but I told them that was the wrong answer if they were selling me this program. They said they would get back to me. I am thinking if I knew how to use layers, well, i should be able to use any of the better programs to do this. Perhaps my question should be should the background picture be taken first, with a tripod, then the subject inserted in different positions for layering the best one into the background, then removing the props, somehow.
I got great help, in reply to my first post, here, and look forward to your comments. Now that I'm into my second post, is "Introduce Yourself" the wrong place to post?
Peace from the Streets,
Creeksong
Sometimes, my greatest ally is sheer dumb luck. As... (show quote)


I had a go at the last one using the "Perfect Eraser" in ON1 Photo Raw. For 10 seconds of work, it did a pretty good job. Didn't try Content-Aware Fill in Photoshop....


(Download)
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Jan 18, 2018 05:45:56   #
KevinH wrote:
Hi,

I'm looking to replace the standard kit lens with it and would use it as a primary wide angle also using it for Milkyway pictures so something as fast as I can afford would be even better.


For Milky way, you want as wide and as fast as possible. The reason is, the maximum amount of time you can leave the shutter open without getting blurring or streaking in the stars is a function of the focal length. For a 24mm on a crop sensor, that is approximately 500/(24 x 1.6), or around 13 seconds. f2.8 might not let in enough light to get good images.

I like my Sigma 20mm f1.4 for MW, and my 16-35 f2.8 does pretty well, also. But that's on a full-frame body, so I can leave the shutter open upwards of 25-30 seconds.
Do you really want a zoom? Sounds like those Tamron primes mentioned earlier might work well for you.
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Jan 16, 2018 02:41:28   #
Dossile wrote:
I haven’t wanted to invest in a high end printer to print, and then frame and hang some of my better shots. Is there a printing service that puts out higher end work versus a Walgreens, Costco or the likes. I’m over a hundred miles from even a mediocre photography store. Any suggestions? Do you all have printers, or do those of you in bigger cities have a shop or online service that you frequent for prints?


I had a few things done at Whitewall that I was pretty happy with. A couple of gifts, and a Milky Way pano hanging in my hallway.
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Jan 16, 2018 02:13:34   #
Rongnongno wrote:
This is not a comfortable subject.

Many folks here are much older than I am (61). I see many threads on what to save or not to save and where.

I have another one more to the point as we all will die sooner than later...

What is the need of preserving anything if you can safely assume that very few will be interested in looking at it especially if there are gazillions of them*?

How many of us have seen cameras in estate sales with all type of stuff including memory cards, drives and the like?

I certainly have and quite frankly I know that 99.9999% of all images created will never be seen more than once.

------
* My grand father was a photographer and had archived tons (as weight) of images on glass documenting the life of his town from the 1890 to 1950. When he died the family who did not know about that went through everything trying to get the family pictures. They 'saved' about 250 glass plates. They were stored in an attic, in a trunk. When I learned of it I tried to get it and was unable to get to it. Now no one knows where the trunk is, my uncle moved and has died since. As to the rest of the collection? It was simply destroyed after no one expressed any interest on the collection. Destruction method? The dump, by truck load.
This is not a comfortable subject. br br Many fol... (show quote)


My Dad was a pretty good photographer. He had, I think, an old Hassleblad; I'm really not sure. He had his darkroom, he did almost all black and white. He had some absolutely amazing pictures of the Southwest, southern Arizona, you could just feel the heat radiating from the rocks, feel the points on the thorns of the saguaros.
When he died, I had to clean all that stuff out, the sole surviving relative. He had boxes and boxes of 4x5 prints he had made. I ended up having to throw almost all of it away. It was one of the hardest things I've ever experienced.
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Jan 10, 2018 02:47:55   #
nauticalmike wrote:
Thank you everyone for the information, and especially the videos on lens construction. Being an engineer, I find those to be very interesting. Although I guess that my question has been answered for the most part I guess my next question would be why don't they just make the best lenses that they can at a reasonable price for everyone rather than only making avery small number of the better lenses, as I'm sure we all want the best that we can afford, and if the prices were lower we could all afford the best.
Thank you everyone for the information, and especi... (show quote)


And how much would you pay for an Ansel Adams print? a dollar? $5?

Sheesh. Socialist photography.
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Jan 10, 2018 02:43:29   #
nauticalmike wrote:
I could see all of the aforementioned reasons making a lot of sense in the olden days when they would have had to be hand polished and the technology wasn't there to consistently make good quality optically perfect glass, but today can't they pretty much automate the entire process and make perfect glass in as large of a size as they want to, not to mention that they could use strong durable polymers to reduce the weight and cost of the lens bodies if they wanted to?


I was reading an article today about a Canon 1200mm f/5.6 lens. It was a monster, weighed 36 pounds. One of the interesting facts quoted was, it took over a year to grow a fluorite crystal big enough to grind for some of the lens elements. See https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-1200mm-f-5.6-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
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